How to See the Best of Oregon Wine Country, Portland, and the Columbia River Gorge

Oregon Wine Country

The first thing to be aware of with Oregon wine country is that everything is incredibly close - and so while I was tempted to curate the “ideal” driving trip for you, the truth is you can literally do whatever you want. Newberg, Dayton, Dundee, McMinnville, Carlton are the primary towns you won’t want to miss - and they are all 20-30 minutes away from each other max. Thought I would outline the towns below just for a quick view… 55 minutes if you were to drive them all consecutively. Not a huge trek, at all. Have at it, bounce around, go back and forth… so easy to do, we did it thrice!

WHERE TO STAY:

Inn the Ground (Carlton): A nine-room luxurious bed-and-breakfast built into the hillside of a regenerative agriculture farm in Carlton. This property was a labor of love by its owners, both sharing passions for regenerative farming and homesteading, and you can feel that love emanating through it’s walls. When we arrived late at night after a day of wine tasting in Newberg, we were weary and ready to tuck in, and Inn the Ground created the perfect place to unwind. Even at night, we walked into a burning toasty fire, a plethora of cookies and salty popcorn and other assorted snacks to choose from, and my favorite amenity: a massive bowl of uncracked walnuts to crack at a moment’s delight. There’s something so simple about holding one’s own food, even if just a 2 foot wide bowl of walnuts, and I happily cracked away well into the evening. Was I hungry? No. Was I having the time of my life? Absolutely.

The next morning was a treat, waking up and browsing around the stellar architecture of the Inn itself. We visited in November, so the leaves were still a vibrant shade of yellow, and a bald eagle paid us a visit as we walked the grounds with our morning coffee. We were given a wide selection of breakfast options paired with fresh scones and morning coffee as we peered out over the 440 acres of property belonging to the Ground (220 acres of which are pasture!) which we were about to explore.

The tour brought us all over the property where we learned how their animal stock has different roles for reinvigorating the old pastures. Cows graze the pastures, pigs till and rut the soil and then chickens come clear out the bugs and pests, thus keeping The Ground in a clean cycle of regeneration. They even have llamas guarding the chickens!

One of the most impressive feats we learned about is the water retention system. It was designed to take advantage of the natural slopes, ridges, creeks and even roads to maximize every droplet of water to refill the water table from the ground up. Here is a video explaining the depth of this project, which required the convincing of regulators to approve the project after it was complete!

Of note is that The Ground is not just restricted to the property on which we stayed; in fact, they are an evolving collection of destinations and experiences throughout Yamhill County, designed to help species connect in harmony with one another. If you’ve ever heard of the famous Tabula Rasa farm, or stopped in the Source farm stand in Oregon wine country, then you’ve been part of The Ground’s ethos and experience. You can learn more about all of their different accommodations here. I have no doubt that this is just the beginning of this endeavor for its owners Brenda and Frank.

Pig pen at Inn the Ground

Fall in full swing at Inn the Ground

Pig pen at Inn the Ground

Still waking up at Inn the Ground

Pigs at Inn the Ground

Cows at Inn the Ground

Pigs on Korean style pen at Inn the Ground

Abbey Road Farm (Carlton): A working 82-acre farm, bed & breakfast, event venue and winery… so yes, it’s possible to do it all. I’ll admit: we weren’t quite sure what to expect when driving out to Abbey Road on a late rainy evening in November. Having stayed on some farms in the past which were “rustic” to put it nicely, we knew to expect different here - but not sure how different. We cruised up a tree-lined street adorned with holiday lights, and pulled up to our silo accommodations, also adorned with cute lights which made them easy to find as we worked our way through the dark night. We settled into our suite, aptly named the “Gamay” suite, which somebody must have secretly told Abbey Road is my favorite type of wine.

We awoke the next morning to a note that breakfast would be waiting for us just up the road, beyond the veggie patch. As I stepped out the door that morning, my eyes were filled with stunning shades of green, orange, yellow and red. Lots of oohs and ahhs and general feelings of delight emanated from our party as we strolled up the hill and said hello to our neighboring chicken and llama friends. Upon entering the breakfast room, we were greeted by Chef Andrew, who invited us to grab some coffee and take our seats so that our meal could begin. What followed for the next hour was an absolute surprise and delight: house made granola over fresh yogurt with stewed fruits, a raddichio salad with parmesan cheese and a citrus olive oil dressing, a fully gluten free (much appreciated by me!) homemade chicken and waffles with a maple cream reduction. I wanted to stop myself, but I couldn’t. Each dish was unique and yet also simple in showcasing the region’s God-given ingredients. I’ll be thinking about that meal for a long time to come, and it redefined what is possible for *breakfast*!

Don’t sleep on Abbey Road’s wine tastings! We made sure to pop by the tasting room on our second night staying at the farm and enjoyed some beautifully complex pinots and especially enjoyed their Chardonnay.

Road views from Abbey Road Farm

Incredible raddichio salad with olive oil citrus dressing - for breakfast!

Abbey Road Pinot Noir in the field

Silo accommodations at Abbey Road Farm

Vineyard views at Abbey Road

Neighbor friends at Abbey Road

Unique light fixtures in silos at Abbey Road

Chicken and waffles, gluten free with a maple & cream sherry reduction at Abbey Road Farms

The Tool Shed at Abbey Road Farm

Wine tasting before dinner at the on site tasting room

Chicken, turkey, peacock friends at Abbey Road Farms

Misty fall views at Abbey Road Farm

The Alison Inn and Spa (Newberg): I have not yet had the privilege to stay here but have heard many, many incredible things, especially with their on site vineyards, spa, and renowned restaurant Dory.

WHERE TO EAT:

Humble Spirit (McMinnville): A classy and cozy restaurant associated with Inn the Ground and Tabula Rasa. All dishes are a celebration of Williamette Valley’s ingredients. We were especially impressed with their perfectly cooked carrots and from-the-farm-right-up-the-road pork. They also had an incredible wine and cocktail selection which paired perfectly given it all hails from the same region.

Red Hills Market (Dundee): Open 8am to 8pm daily, this is one of the coolest local markets I’ve ever been to. We desperately needed some incredible and hearty food after a day turned evening of wine tasting, and popped into Red Hills, where we were able to not only pick up a snickerdoodle cookie for my sweet tooth, a final night cap bottle of red, but also some hearty food: the “Famous Roast Beef” sandwich and “Autumn Love” pizza have been heavy topics of conversation since they were consumed back at our hotel that evening. My only regret is not actually staying at the market to enjoy our food, as the vibes were high and people seemed to be truly enjoying themselves and the atmosphere. We already plan to go back in a few weeks, and I’d be lying if I didn’t say it was largely driven by our drive to try more things on the menu. Lastly, I always feel it important to mention when you have a really great experience with people and waitstaff, too, and Red Hills did not disappoint. Both the owners and the folks running ops and day to day operations were incredibly friendly, helpful, and ensured we ordered something that would fill our bellies and hearts with glee. Take a look at their menu yourself and we dare you not to drool!

Brick Hall (Dayton): A historic church in Dayton has been beautifully restored and is now a restaurant and event space called Brick Hall 1886. This restaurant is an absolute must, but be aware they are only open Saturday - Monday (and hopefully Fridays soon, too!)

Another hugely important part of Brick Hall are its people. We were the first ones in for a 4:30pm reservation (I may have wanted to catch the last light of the day to be able to showcase/photograph the food properly) and had a chance to hang out with the wait staff and Chef Nick. Upon arriving home from the trip, we reflected that Chef Nick was the person we both appreciated most of everyone we met while traveling during our trip and the reason was clear: he cared… something which can be hard to find in the hospitality industry these days. He was eager to tell us about his process, the background behind the pickling jars on the shelves near the kitchen (when asked how to find the bathroom, he replied with a smirk “hang a right at the pickles”), and ensure we ordered something we loved. It’s rare to find someone like him, but explains so much about the wild success and popularity of Brick Hall.

Also of note, one of our favorite communities, Tournant PDX, known for their seasonal farm-to-fire cooking, immersive dining experiences, and workshops, co-hosts events at Brick Hall. We had just missed an oysters event the weekend prior, and a Croatian dinner feast was happening on the day we left Dayton. Tournant are creating something really special and immersive in Oregon communities, so it’s of no surprise that they have found a true collaborative partner with a shared vision in Brick Hall.

Toast with ricotta and all the roasted farm fresh vegetables at Brick Hall

Pasta at Brick Hall

Menu and candlelight at Brick Hall

Hama Hama oysters at Brick Hall

Outside of Brick Hall, a church built in 1866 (check Erick)

Indoor views at Brick Hall, a former church which has been restored

Wooden Heart (Dundee): Wooden Heart is a fully operable mobile, wood fired kitchen in an adorable 1964 Kenskill camp trailer serving up delicious, creative, gourmet pizzas. It is parked daily at Furioso Vineyards making it the an awesome stop for a quick but filling lunch while wine tasting. Started by married team, and Valley culinary-scene veterans, Ryan + Yvette Clark, Wooden Heart reflects their passion for great food and their love for all things local.

Ruddick/Wood (Newberg): Farm-to-table restaurant and tavern on Newberg's main street

Dos Mundos: Incredible tacos as a quick stop off after wine tasting on 99W.

JORY at The Allison Inn & Spa (Newberg): Contained within the stunning Allison Inn & Spa the JORY is very instagrammable and rumor has it the Benedicts are great, but the biscuits are a must! Farm to table style meal.

Carlton Bakery (Carlton): French-style bakery that feels like you’ve stepped into the Montmartre in Paris, conveniently located on Carlton's main street. A great place to get a little sandwich in the belly before heading down to Flaneur wines for a tasting.

Car views of the wonderful French-inspired Carlton Bakery

WHERE TO DRINK/WINE TASTE:

Nicolas Jay (Newberg): A heavily French influenced vineyard (Nicolas is French, Jay is Cali-American turned Oregon obsessed). Book a tasting and you won’t regret it. My favorite reds were their L’Ensemble and our greatest surprise was the uniqueness of their Chardonnay. As someone who has lived many years in the Bay Area in a past life and done many a Napa wine tasting involving a buttery Chard, this was a lovely surprise and opened my eyes to the variety available beyond the buttery Chard you may have become used to. The tasting team / staff were also incredible to learn from and interact with and you could see the passion in their eyes for the Nicolas Jay story. They even inspired us to sign up for a volunteer list for next year’s harvest, so catch us out there stomping grapes!

I would be remiss if I didn’t give a shout out to Taste Newberg here as well (Hi Kayt!), as they and their app were a great resource for helping us find the best spots in wine country. Highly recommend using their website, taking a look at some of the suggested itineraries, and then using their Plan My Visit feature here.

Looking into tasting room and cellar of Nicolas Jay

Cellar at Nicolas Jay

Nicolas Jay tasting menu

Nicolas Jay upon arrival

Great space for large parties at Nicolas Jay

Artist Block (Dundee): Two words: holy shit! I’d say my wine tastes are either traditional French Gamays, or funky natural organic new age wines - either orange or chilled reds, and this place exceeded all of our expectations. We were fortunate enough to also meet the owner, Anna Sweet, and learn a bit about the winemaker (the only woman Master Somm in the PNW… we stan a successful queen!), and were very intrigued and enthralled by their vision. Not only is this beautiful space set in the Dundee Hills an incredible venue to enjoy some of the best wines around, but it also boasts a 2000 sq ft art gallery, inspires one’s creative juices by way of events and art, and creates a real communal gathering “third” place in a place where I think one is still needed. Our only regret is missing the screening of The Big Lebowski the night after we left.

As a fellow ex-pat myself (the owner’s former city residencies which she called home may be longer than mine), it’s sometimes hard to figure out where you belong in a place like Oregon, but they are taking risks and trying new things and we love them for it. The natural wines are some of the best I’ve ever tasted, truly, but the idea and concept is something to admire.

They also do a great job of curating community and events in the Dundee Hills community so it’s worth checking to see what’s upcoming when you are planning a visit.

Incredible art and vibes in Artist Block

Inviting and cozy nordic vibe exterior at Artist Block

Every wine delights at Artist Block

Flâneur Winery (Carlton): One of the most interesting places we’ve visited in Oregon with impeccable wines and a one-of-a-kind venue (built in a heavily renovated old grain mill!). They also run many wine educational events, host enchanting dinner parties, and have the kindest staff around. Flaneur crafts site-specific & vintage-driven Oregon wines from their estate vineyards in the Ribbon Ridge and Chehalem Mountain AVAs.

I’m not sure if I have ever been so aligned with a winery ethos before either. Do you know what a Flâneur is? I didn’t either. But once I read the way they define flaneur and their brand, on the walls of their tasting room, I was sold, and knew I’d be a forever fan.

A flâneur is, quite simply, a leisurely wanderer, a worldly explorer, a connoisseur of life. The word, hailing from 19th-century France, captures the idea that the mind functions best at a slow pace, and that curiosity can uncover a life of significance. It is, as Charles Baudelaire wrote so eloquently, a life of juxtaposition: alone yet surrounded by bustle, slow yet continuously moving forward.

For the perfect flâneur, for the passionate spectator, it is an immense joy to set up house in the heart of the multitude, amid the ebb and flow of movement, in the midst of the fugitive and the infinite. To be away from home and yet to feel oneself everywhere at home.
-Charles Baudelaire, “The Painter of Modern Life”

We consider ourselves to be flâneurs at our core, passionate artisans joined together by the desire to slow down, observe the world, and create delicious wines.

At Flaneur Wines we live by the idea that some of the best things in life are uncovered without intention, and that life—like a good wine—should be enjoyed and appreciated.

Sign. Us. Up.

View of silos from inside Flaneur’s tasting room

Impeccably produced whites

Inside grain mill at Flaneur

Wolves & People Brewery (Newberg): Small batch beers in a 100 year old barn, need we say more?

Big Table Farm (Carlton): By appointment only tastings; Big Table Farm started as a collaboration between a winemaker and an artist growing and producing what they love to eat and drink. Over time, Big Table Farm has become a point of connection for so many to share wine made by hand with the food and people around your table. Big Table Farm Atelier is the 'studio' where the big table family works and shares wine. The atelier is Clare's working art studio and a beautiful new 'in town' location. This is a historic feed store in the heart of wine county in down town Carlton where one can experience wine, art, and the full creative process.

Big Table Farm tasting room

OTHER THINGS TO DO:

Third Street Books (McMinnville): A very charming bookstore located on Main street.

Charming Third Street Books in downtown McMinnville

Strolling as the sun sets on a rainy evening in McMinnville

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum (McMinnville): One of the world’s best and home to the Spruce Goose, well worth the price of admission for the Spruce Goose alone! The museum is an independent, 501 non-profit, aviation museum in McMinnville, Oregon. Its exhibits include the Hughes H-4 Hercules and an impressive collection of more than fifty military and civilian aircraft, unmanned aerial vehicles, and spacecraft. There’s an entire aviation wing, and an entire space wing, and there are even about 20 planes adorning the grounds outside the museum for those that only have time for a drive by. The museum was built by Evergreen Aviation founder Del Smith in 1999 and 2000 and remains an icon for the region, though has since been purchased by Bill Stoller, owner of Stoller Family Estate, who saved the museum from liquidation following Smith’s death in 2014. “It’s preservation of the history; it’s preservation of the people who took part in piloting those planes and in working in the museum, and all that they’ve done,” Stoller said upon the acquisition. The Evergreen Museum is lucky to have an owner whose heart is in the right place.

Birds eye view

Front view of old airplane

Walking the floors of Evergreen taking it all in

Wes Anderson like entry into Evergreen Aviation Museum

Planes overhead at Evergreen Aviation Museum

PORTLAND AREA

First things first: there are an endless amount of things to do in Portland area, from hiking to exploring to eating to your hearts content, to catching a show at one of the many small, cool and quirky live music venues in town. I saw SYML at Revolution Hall on this trip, and Finneas at the Crystal Ballroom on another trip and both shows were amongst some of the best I’ve ever seen live. Highly recommend googling your planned Portland dates ahead of the trip to see if there are any good shows on (there almost always are).

For brevity’s sake, this is primarily food and wine focused as we only had a couple quick days in town - but we hit some of the best spots and have visited a few other honorable mentions below on previous trips, and can full heartedly recommend you check out each and every one of these reccs.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Vance: perfectly located in the Cultural district, walkable to virtually everything (we didn’t move our car the entire trip, and simply walked or Ubered everywhere). When we first arrived to our room, we were delighted by the scenic views outside our window, and then focused our eyes on the abundantly spacious and clean room itself. The amenities were well appointed, and there was more than enough room for 2 of us to spread out and get some work done, chat, and relax in our own space. The bathroom was clean, the water pressure and temperature was divine, and the crab tiling in the shower wall gave me a chuckle every time I looked its direction.

Fun fact: the cafe BEASTRO downstairs is owned by Marshawn Lynch, and based on our firsthand experience, Marshawn knows his coffee!

Views from room at Hotel Vance

Working hard or hardly working?

Full cafe at Hotel Vance, owned by Marshawn Lynch

Entrance to Hotel Vance

PDX love at Hotel Vance

Happy Hour at Hotel Vance with neighborhood views

Hoxton Hotel: A very hip and stylish home base for Portland explorations. Having stayed in many of the Hoxton’s European locations for business and pleasure over the years, it’s a brand I’ve come to rely on and relish in when traveling. This hotel is 119 rooms and offers aesthetically pleasing views in every corner, not to mention several incredible restaurant (Lovely Rita and Tope) and cafe options.

Lovely Rita cafe views

Tope views and ambiance

WHERE TO EAT:

Andina: A taste of Peru in the Pacific Northwest. An establishment that has been around since 2003. Don’t miss out on the empanadas, orange wine, and my personal favorite, the humita. Incredible!

An assortment of incredible Peruvian dishes at Andina

An assortment of incredible Peruvian dishes at Andina

Lilia Comedor: New York Times listed the top 50 restaurants in the U.S. this year and Lilia Comedor was one of 3 Oregon restaurants on the list. Does it live up to its reputation? Absolutely. This restaurant feels like you plucked one of the top Mexico City restaurants and placed it in PDX. Highly seasonal, highly personal, and incredibly fresh. You’ll just have to go see it for yourself.

Mediterranean Exploration Company: Upscale Mediterranean in an industrial chic setting. The carrots were our favorite dish with the kebabs in a close second.

Lamb hummus at Mediterranean Exploration Co

Beautifully seasoned carrots at Mediterranean Exploration Co

Tope: Perched at the top of the Hoxton hotel, Tope is trendy, and offers stunning rooftop views of Mt Hood on a clear day. Stellar orange wines and ceviche. Don’t sleep on the mezcal here!

Inside of Tope

Inside of Tope

Tope rooftop views

Tope rooftop views

Tusk: Middle Eastern and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine highlighting seasonal produce of the Pacific Northwest.

Harlow: A phenomenal and cute organic healthy food café which I make a habit of stopping at every time I’m in Portland. I cannot emphasize enough how many times their made-in-front-of-your-eyes carrot ginger freshly pressed juices have saved me from a mid afternoon crash.

Juice bar views at Harlow

Vintage seating at Harlow

Coquine: Cozy corner kitchen serving polished, farm-to-table New American dinners & casual cafe fare by day, located on the corner of SE 69th and Belmont, at the top of an extinct volcano, in Portland's beautiful Mount Tabor neighborhood.

Morchella: A modern American restaurant in the Irving district of Portland OR dedicated to seasonal foraged and wild foods.

Café Olli: A truly all-day cafe with great pastries, sandwiches, pizza and more, focused on local seasonal ingredients. Nearly hidden on NE MLK so keep your eyes peeled!

Gado Gado: Trendy and busy hangout with pan-Asian & Dutch-Indonesian offerings, plus specialty cocktails. A fun read on them here.

Luce: Petite, low-key Italian restaurant and grocery serving housemade pastas & seasonal entree, feels like you’ve stepped into a Parisian cafe.

Canard: Canard, opened by Gabriel Rucker and Andrew Fortgang of Le Pigeon (right next door), is an all day café/restaurant by day, and wine and cocktail bar by night featuring what the kitchen calls wild French-inspired bar food. World renowned for good reason.

Proud Mary Cafe: Hip Aussie-style cafe in an industrial-chic space offering craft coffee, breakfast & smoothies, in the Alberta district.

Millennial avocado toast with beans and poached egg at Proud Mary Cafe

Banh Mi on fresh bread at Proud Mary cafe

PASTRIES/DESSERT:

Kate’s Ice Cream: seriously great plant-based & gluten-free ice cream made in Portland, OR.

Eb & Bean: Amazing dairy free and gluten free frozen yogurt, with interesting rotating flavors. I tried tahini, chocolate walnut brownie, and apple pie and the combination was divine. Check out their latest menu here.

Eb & Bean in Northwest Portland

Cosmic Bliss Pearl District

Cosmic Bliss: Delicious, sustainable, and organic plant-based & grass-fed ice cream in Portland's Pearl District. Good for the planet, good for you, good for dairy and gluten sensitive folks. Win, win, win.

Maurice PDX: A Scandinavian influenced modern pastry luncheonette in a tiny all white dining room. Go ahead and check out their Instagram and tell us you aren’t swooning and planning a visit immediately.

Gluten Free Gem: An independent, family run bakery located in Portland’s Lloyd District. Owner Anne Miller started baking gluten free at Corbett Coffee Plant in 2006 when her daughter was first diagnosed with Celiac Disease. By April of 2011, the bakery had outgrown its SW Corbett location and moved to N. Hancock St. With this move came a name change, to celebrate the original Gems: Anne’s daughters Greta and Emma Miller.

Some of selection at Gluten Free Gem

Cinnamon sugar donut and cardamom pear cake at Gluten Free Gem

New Cascadia Traditional: an incredible all gluten free, celiac safe bakery. Take away cinnamon rolls or cinnamon raisin loaf!

Inside seating at New Cascadia

Takeaway maple bar and cinnamon raisin bread from New Cascadia

WHERE TO DRINK:

Bar West: Locally sourced, organic dishes, brunch & cocktails offered in a modern spot with a covered patio.

Grape Ape: A 700 sq ft bottle shop and bar. Having opened in 2023, they are fresh, innovative, and totally killing the unique / funky / interesting wines game. I happened to walk into here on November 16th, the official beaujolais nouveau day in France, and was greeted with a stellar beaujolais option to go with the day - it did not disappoint! We were also entertained by some of their whimsical chardonnays and light but interesting reds, and certainly enjoyed our charcuterie board and roasted cauliflower which were all prepared in house. Would go back, 10/10.

Charcuterie board at Grape Ape

Blurry night vision at Grape Ape

Bar Diane: Located in the posh Northwest Alberta district, this has quickly become a new favorite both for the wines and ambiance. With the entrance in a back alley, this is a cool hideaway with a patio presenting a large wine list, plus cocktails, small plates & local bites.

Oysters and French wine at Bar Diane

Roasted cauliflower at Grape Ape

OTHER PLACES TO CHECK OUT:

Powell’s Books at night

SYML concert at Revolution Hall

City views as the sun sets

Bookstores, bookstores, bookstores! Of course, you can’t go wrong by spending an entire day roaming around the classic Powell Bookstore, but there are so many others worth checking out as well, especially for those with niche interests. Also loved walking into Daedalus Books in the Northwest Portland district.

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

WHERE TO STAY:

ArtBliss Boutique Hotel: A stunning and private getaway on the other side of the river from Hood River, perched up on a slope in Stevenson, WA. Every detail is attended to with precision, and one can even enjoy an outdoor bubble bath in the privacy of one’s own cabin backyard. A great option if you’re OK with not staying right in Hood River or White Salmon but want some privacy while still being close to the action. Artbliss is labor of love and a collaboration between Stevenson locals Tom Sikora and Tabatha Wiggins. Long time Stevenson locals, the two take pride in their community and love being able to share that love with others.   Tom is a professional photographer and cinematographer having artwork in featured in galleries and publications has covered hundreds of weddings and corporate events.   Tabatha is the Owner of Walking Man Brewing, a pillar of the Stevenson downtown district – known for brewing unique craft beers, serving amazing food  and hosting unique events for over two decades. Together Tom & Tabatha (and many friends and professionals from the community) designed and built the cabins from the ground up!

Morning light on cabin at ArtBliss

Cozy lighting and seating at ArtBliss

Inside of cabin at ArtBliss

Society Hotel Bingen: Set in a former school in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, this trendy hotel off Route 14 is a 13-minute walk from the riverfront. It’s a place that is so fun to hang out in, with plenty of amenities to go around, that you are tempted to actually never explore beyond it’s front door. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Pool at Society Hotel Bingen

Cafe and library at Society Hotel Bingen

Getaway Mt Adams: Set in Glenwood, WA, Getaway Mount Adams outpost is a quick drive from Portland, offering plenty of scenic spots to explore. If you’re looking for a stunning drive across the Gorge and a bit of an escape out of Wifi service, this is your place. An amazing venue to go alone for a reading weekend or with friends and goodies to throw on your grill, whilst walking around the forest. Spectacular views of Mt Adams flirt with you right down the street.

Getaway house at Mt Adams

Personal getaway house at Mt Adams

WHERE TO EAT:

Solstice Wood Fire Pizza: Great option to eat in or take away! Made with plenty of local ingredients and super fresh with great gluten free options.

Takeaway from Solstice Wood Fire Pizza

Takeaway from Solstice Wood Fire Pizza

Takeaway Tonya Wrap from Farm Stand in the Gorge

Hood River Common House: An awesome bottle shop and venue for hanging out with a cider, just hope that it isn’t closed for a private event, as it has become a very popular venue for private parties!

Dog River Coffee: Excellent place for remote workers wanting to hang out in a cool, rustic space with great coffee and people watching, a local favorite.

Views from inside Dog River Coffee

Farm Stand in the Gorge: An incredible place to snag sandwiches for breakfast or to take on your day’s adventure. Old school deli style with plenty of breakfast or regular sandwiches, hot or cold, and at reasonable prices for the Gorge.

Pine Street Bakery: Casual local bakery preparing its own baked goods as well as a range of lunch & breakfast dishes. The cinnamon rolls and berry muffins are unfussy and unbeatable.

Apple cake and cinnamon roll at Pine Street Bakery

Berry muffin at Pine Street Bakery

Fresh cinnamon rolls at Pine Street bakery

WHERE TO DRINK:

Hiyu Wine Farm: Hiyu Wine Farm's rustic wood, low-slung tasting room sits nestled unobtrusively against a small hillside among a riot of wildflowers. Their wines are by far our favorite from the Columbia River Gorge, and I think the secret is starting to get out about Hiyu as they have recently been featured by some major publications. I hope to keep it a secret for as long as I can, but will tell you, dear reader, it is fantasic.

Conde Nast Traveler describes Hiyu better than I ever could:

Hiyu Wine Farm’s rustic wood, low-slung tasting room sits nestled unobtrusively against a small hillside among a riot of wildflowers. It’s like a half-hidden log you might come upon while walking through a meadow, one that invites you to take a seat. Step inside, however, and the space feels far more spacious than it seemed from the outside. It’s one big, expansive, wide-open room, with an open kitchen set toward the back, and distinct seating areas throughout—romantic two-tops on one wall, a long communal table with benches on another, a fireplace flanked with cozy chairs off to the side. The décor reflects the winery’s biodynamic ethos, lots of rustic, reclaimed and repurposed and natural materials. Even the watercolor-like mural of vines and leaves looks like a detail lifted from one of the labels on the bottles. In summer, the outdoor patio is the place to be, a pocket of a side yard strewn with tables under shade sails that flap gently in the wind, beautifully unkempt vines stretching up the hill on one side and wild berry brambles and pollinator-friendly flowers filling in the other.

The wines here are complex, elegant, aromatic, and always a surprise. Bottles don’t hold just one varietal, they can hold nearly a dozen, depending on what’s growing in that particular block. They’re not meant to be pure expressions of one particular grape, they’re much more complex than that. That’s why they’re simply labeled “red wine” or “white wine” and named after the vineyards. Consider the Eventyr block, a half-acre site that grows vines of Blaufrankisch, Kadarka, Pignolo, Schiopettino, Corvina, Gamay, Vugava, and several clones of heirloom Zinfandel. It all goes into one bottle. Clearly, you can nerd out on obscure varietals all you want here—or just sit back and enjoy them.

Soča Wine Shop & Bar: Well, this place feels like tripping and falling into heaven. The most incredible wine selection in the state of Oregon, without a doubt, and an incredible ambiance both in and out. Order up tapas style dishes and a fantastic wine, and take it out onto their outdoor patio where there is often outdoor music, and always incredible views. Not to be missed!

Live music and Hood views at Soca

Soca entrance

Burrrata with the fixings and a mineraly white at Soca

Wy’East Vineyards: Wy'East Vineyards produces hand crafted wines from estate grown Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay grapes & also sources fruit from top notch vineyards in the region. From the harvest, crush and barrel aging — it all takes place at their facility. The Wy’East tasting room’s patio is an ideal setting for a glass of wine and a picnic lunch while overlooking the east hills, a humble waterfall and pond. And of course, watching the llamas graze the yard is a cherry on top!

Marchesi Vineyards: Marchesi grows exceptional Italian varietals from the foothills of Mt. Hood. The splendid snow capped peak is reminiscent of Northern Italy, where Marchesi’s owner, Franco Marchesi, was born and raised. Like Northern Italy, the spectacular Columbia River Gorge provides the rich soil and perfect climate that gives their wines minerality, flavor, and depth. Marchesi’s specialties are Barbera, Dolcetto, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Nero. Sitting in their outdoor tasting room felt reminiscent of many afternoons spent sipping bubbly whites in the Dolomites. Like!

Views from Marchesi seating

Incredible reds with depth at Marchesi

Marchesi historic building

Mt Hood Winery: Mt. Hood Winery offers a broad selection of wines and Mt. Hood views and is located just five minutes south of downtown Hood River. On one side, you get views of Mt Hood. On the other patio, you get views of Mt Adams. How could one ever complain? Definitely a place to go for the views more than anything, but the wines hold up as well for the more classic wine appreciator.

View of Mt Hood winery tasting room, with Mount Adams in the distance

Drive views in the Gorge

WHERE TO EXPLORE:

Draper Girls Country Farm: The forty-acre property sits along highway 35 near the town of Parkdale, where, on a clear day, it feels like front row seats to a panorama of Mt. Hood. Live music, goats, U-Pick flowers, apples and pears, hot cider, apple cider donuts. Plus loads of artisanal goods and vintage items for sale. One of my favorite stops on the drive from Portland to Bend.

Draper Girls Farm

Draper Girls Farm produce

Draper Girls Farm

Draper Girls Farm stand

Tamanawas Falls hike: One of the best in the area albeit ever so slightly touristy in the ‘on’ season. Be sure to snag a permit before you get here as you will need one to park in the lot on the side of the road. Tamanawas Falls forms a broad curtain where Cold Spring Creek thunders over a 110-foot lava cliff near the eastern base of Mount Hood. This hike along scenic Cold Spring Creek has been a traditional trek for families and can be enjoyed any time of the year with the right preparation. The waterfall is reduced to a thin veil in late summer and fall, but summer wildflowers and fall colors make the hike up the creek a worthy excursion. It's possible to see the falls in winter, when the spray freezes over and forms a massive ice grotto in the amphitheater, but snowshoes may be required.

Tamanawas Falls

Tamanawas Falls with my cute doggo, River

Western Aero Museum: The Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum is located in Hood River, Oregon, United States, adjacent to the Ken Jernstedt Memorial Airport. WAAAM is a nonprofit 501 organization committed to the preservation of, and education about aviation, automobile, and other historic transportation-related relics.

Laurance Lake hike: This trail provides an incredible view of Laurance Lake. The trail is fairly open, leading to some great views of Mt. Hood and the surrounding area. The hike begins on the shores of the crystal-clear Laurance Lake—in and of itself a fantastic destination for swimming and SUPping. After crossing the dam, the trail begins climbing in earnest, switchbacking back and forth as it winds its way up a steep-sided ridge. The hiking is very aerobic in the first section, and a few rocky bits and steep ascents could prove tricky to the uninitiated. Yet with reasonable fitness, you'll press ahead, and make for the ridgeline.

Upon arriving at the ridge, you'll, unfortunately, find yourself shrouded in trees. The grade mellows out, though, the trail rolling up and down as it continues to ascend along the top of the ridge. Occasional views toward Mount Adams will open up through the trees, but Mount Hood remains obscured. Keep hiking until the end of this route, as mapped. Here, you'll find a break in the trees, and the promised unobstructed vistas of Mount Hood will open up grandly before you! About 6.5 miles RT.

River dog taking in the Hood views

Mt Hood over Laurance Lake

Drive up to Laurance Lake

Fall colors overlooking Laurance Lake

Columbia River Gorge Scenic Highway: A stunning scenic route to or fro Portland from Hood River, the scenic highway offers stunning views of the gorge as well as the largest concentration of high waterfalls in North America. You’ve likely seen Multnomah Falls all over Instagram, and it’s even prettier in person, and has a stunning wood lodge beneath it where you can enjoy a chili while taking in the views from your fireside perch.

Columbia River Gorge Scenic Highway views

Views from inside Multnomah Lodge

Bridal Veil Falls

Regional Spotlight: An Urban Denver Adventure & Jackson Hole Escape

The entire Colorado and Wyoming region has so much to offer – you could spend weeks just eating your way through Denver, or bounce to one of hundreds of mountain adventures within hours. If I do my job correctly, this guide will help you better understand what each has to offer and what spots to hit whether you have a few days or a few weeks in the Denver / Jackson Hole regions.

jackson hole

My initial draw to Denver for this trip was Outdoor Retailer, held at the city convention center. I make a point at least once every couple of years of getting out to Outdoor Retailer, especially now that it has moved from Salt Lake City to Denver, i.e. the mecca of weekend mountain adventures.  For this particular trip, I wanted to also use the opportunity to do some city hopping around Denver, checking out the hotel, art, and brewery scene, followed by a long weekend getaway in Jackson Hole, easily one of my favorite places in the world (having been to the Alps, Dolomites, Andes, etc, Jackson Hole still remains towards the top of the list!)

Importantly, this trip took place during winter Outdoor Retailer in early November, which to Denver urbanites and Jackson Hole skiiers is considered the “off-season,” i.e. the season of waiting patiently for that first big snowfall which officially signals winter sports season.  But to me, this shoulder season should very much be considered ‘on’ season for tourists for a number of reasons: 1) there are less crowds, 2) the weather hasn’t turned for the worse yet (& is actually quite nice given the region’s reputation for having way more sunny days than not!), 3) lower hotel prices given the lower volume of traffic, 4) the roads are not yet iced over, making road trips and outdoor adventures easy and safe.

DENVER:

PLACES TO STAY:

Hilton Denver City Center hosted me on this trip, and I would stay there again 10 times out of 10.  They were within walking distance of everything I wanted to see/do, super useful in terms of concierge/front desk services, had a kick-butt breakfast, and have an incredible and diverse dinner offering at Prospect’s Urban Kitchen & Bar located conveniently on the lower level of the hotel. Not to mention, the hotel itself is completely affordable for the average traveler! An ideal spot for really anyone: business travelers, individuals, or families.

Another often overlooked but important qualifier is that a hotel be a place where you feel comfortable leaving bags if needed, as I did.  I had no worries in my mind about leaving all of my luggage there for 3 days while on another leg of my trip, and that peace of mind was worth every penny of my stay!

denver hilton city center
denver city center hilton
denver hilton city center
hilton denver city center

Whatever you do, I would highly recommend finding a hotel in the city center or near union station.  You’ll find that a hotel in either location is reliable, convenient, and will have all of the amenities you could ever want.  Plus, being near highways (as the city center ones are) to get in and out on an adventure is another major perk. My friend who came from Golden to pick me up was able to get in and out of the city in a matter of minutes. Airport rides by Uber were also effortless. Win win.

AirBnB is also a good option in Denver, with many cute and well-located properties available. I would stay either near Union Station or in Capitol Hill.

denver union station
union station denver

FOOD:

DRINKS:

ACTIVITIES:

denver central market
denver

JACKSON HOLE:

PLACES TO STAY:

We stayed at two different hotels, which were completely different but each had their own unique assets, depending on what you are looking for. 

Let’s break them each down, shall we? 

HOTEL JACKSON

Always a sucker for a place with a bit of history, I fully appreciated that this hotel was started as a passion project of the Darwiche family, as Jim Darwiche and his wife Safaa spent many decades developing numerous businesses in Jackson and fell in love with the town and it’s heritage before deciding to start the new Hotel Jackson. I say “new” because the original Hotel Jackson was one of the first five buildings that made up the town of Jackson in the early 1900s, and this hotel being so aptly named is a nod to history.

hotel jackson
hotel jackson figs
hotel jackson
hotel jackson

As for hospitality, this absolutely gorgeous, rustic, high-end hotel leaves no detail overlooked. They’ve got luxury dialed in: the front desk runs like a well-oiled machine, and when there, you truly feel as though you have nothing left to do but sit back and R E L A X and let them do the rest.

We noticed lots of little details, from the attentiveness of the staff, to the warm cookies, coffee/tea & adventure books available in the lobby, to the soothing music and bottle of water made available as part of the turn down service at night. We felt very well looked after here.  Not to mention, the lodgy western flair makes you feel warm and cozy, without isolating you from the mountains right outside the front door. Hotel Jackson successfully brings the outside in.

A final perk: Hotel Jackson boasts one of the best restaurants in Jackson Hole, it’s very own on-site Lebanese and Mediterranean fusion restaurant called FIGS, which I’d certainly recommend you at least stop at for a dinner. But be careful setting up too close to the restaurant’s two story fireplace: you may never end up wanting to leave.

Importantly, Hotel Jackson is also the first LEED-certified hotel in Jackson Hole, so is ahead of the curve.

ANVIL HOTEL

Living in Europe has given me a real affinity for hotels that have that lodge meets ultra modern/hip feel.  The lobby of the 49-room Anvil Hotel feels almost as though you’ve been dropped into a Huckberry catalogue. Fancy coffees are available for purchase, and the common area fireplace invites you to waste your day away cozied up in front of it. I have to be honest: I could’ve sat in their lobby and ignored the mountains outside all day long. Yes, it is THAT cozy and inviting.

Another perk: they have lots of fun trendy gear (including sunglasses from my friends over at Sunski!) and the entire hotel’s aesthetic just screams PENDLETON!  Don’t forget to set aside some money to purchase a takeaway from their lobby store... if you're anything like me, you’ll want everything in there.

anvil
anvil
anvil jackson hole
anvil jackson hole

This hotel is a steal at a price point starting in the low 100’s, especially in shoulder season.  What we loved most about the rooms was that they felt upscale and hip, but also just cozy/small enough that you almost believed you were in a cabin in the woods. The room got cooler at night (by choice, we could’ve turned on the heater, but opted not to), and we loved bundling up under the winter-ready heavy wool blankets adorning each bed. It is safe to say that Anvil encouraged us to fully embrace the cabin feels.

Interestingly, Anvil also has a fun history. Bloomberg recently quite aptly called it “the Wild West’s Dude Ranch for Hipsters”. The hotel has been around a long time (since the 1950’s, when it was considered more of a ‘motel’) and first caught the attention of now-owner hotelier Erik Warner in the mid-90’s. Early in his hospitality career, Warner worked the front desk at the “old” Anvil Hotel, and knew then that it could become something special. But it wasn’t until years later, on a visit back to Jackson Hole in 2014, that he discovered it’s current owners were toying with the idea of selling it. Armed with a couple decades of experience in the hospitality industry, and many successful projects under his belt, the time was finally right. Warner made a successful sales pitch and the Anvil Hotel became his. The entire hotel was gutted to become what it has become today. I suppose the combination of city hotelier flare + traditional Jackson Hole rustic is what makes this place feel so special.

FOOD:

DRINKS:

SHOPS:

  • Stop into Spirit and Spice, try some of the many options on tap, and pick up some gifts for friends/family. They will ship!

jackson cowboy bar
jackson hole
jackson hole
bin22 jackson hole

ACTIVITIES:

FLY JACKSON HOLE AERIAL FLIGHT

My absolute biggest off-season activity recommendation for Jackson, if your wallet allows (and even if it doesn’t, because it’s absolutely worth the splurge), is to take in aerial views of the region with Fly Jackson Hole.  They’ve been around for about 4 years as of 2018, and their operation is based right at the airport, so you can easily get to them – no excuses.  What better way to see absolutely everything Jackson Hole has to offer than to see it all in one epic full swoop?

fly jackson hole
fly jackson hole
fly jackson hole
Image taken by @bryaneastmedia

Image taken by @bryaneastmedia

We spent a few hours with the pilots, Pete (owner) and Dave, and both are two of the nicest, most charismatic folks you could ever meet.  You get the sense that they really love what they do, love and take pride in Jackson, and simply feel it is their obligation/honor to show other people the place they love so much. 

Importantly, both absolutely know their stuff when it comes to flying, as they have over 50 years of charter flying experience between the two of them. This is an airplane ride you don’t feel even the slightest bit worried or on edge about, which allows you to focus all of your energy on the beauty all around you.

Fly Jackson Hole has 2 planes in their fleet: a Cessna 207 8-seater and a Cessna 172XP.  You can’t go wrong with either – it’s more a matter of how many people you’ve got with you.

fly jackson hole
fly jackson hole

We opted for their Alpenglow Tour, which meant we had 90 minutes in the skies before, during and after sunset.  The tour allowed us to see Jackson and surrounding areas by day, but then get over to the other side of the Tetons to capture photos of that coveted dewey pink just sneaking it’s way across the mountains before the day slipped into night. The best surprise for us was just how much our pilot Dave knew about the region – I’ve been coming to Jackson Hole for years, and felt like I learned more about the entire area in those 90 minutes than I had in a decade. The flight cost was worth the download on local history and knowledge in itself!

If you have any doubts about booking a trip, don’t. Just do it!

Now that we have covered that, here are other off-season activities (check on these before you go, as some are closed at certain points depending on exact timing):

DRIVING / HIKING AROUND THE PARK

jackson hole
jackson hole car
teton national park jackson hole avis
teton national park

I can’t stress enough: the best way to experience Jackson is to get a rental car (even better if it’s 4WD or a fun adventure vehicle) and GO!!! To optimize your time in the region and see everything the park has to offer, you’ll want to be able to get around on your own without relying on hotel shuttles which will only take you to the airport/ski slopes and back. Here are a few must-sees in the park:

moulton barn jackson hole
jackson hole

*BONUS:  Because I attended Outdoor Retailer in Winter 2018, I wanted to share some photos / takeaways from the event for anyone interested in attending a future show.

OUTDOOR RETAILER:

outdoor retailer denver
outdoor retailer denver
outdoor retailer denver

The general consensus especially now that they have split the winter show into two is that it is a much slower show, which actually was nice. It allows people to take a bit more time to chat and feel a little less crunched on time/appointments.  At the 2018 November Winter show, I had a few important takeaways worth sharing around the show and trends across the industry as a whole:

  1. I’ve been really excited to see how many panels/conversations are being had around innovation in an industry that has been slow to change. We are entering a new era.

  2. Sustainability, transparency and a re-examined supply chain continue to be current and relevant issues across many industries - & it definitely applies here. Consumers are getting smarter & want to know what’s in their products, who’s making them, and where they’re coming from. 

  3. Retail and E-commerce as we know it are changing forever, thanks to behemoths like Amazon. Best for retailers to work with it, not against it. 

  4. There is still so much opportunity in the adventure foods landscape - particularly for companies that do things to stand out in a crowded market (i.e. like RXBar). Clif Bar / Larabar, etc. remain dominant players but are ripe for disruption. Bonus pts for clean labels, & fresh/natural trumps long shelf life. A newly discovered favorite brand adhering to this ethos was Four Points Bar. Check them out!

  5. The US & Rest of World operate very independently. Regulations make it hard for brands to export to Europe. Lots of room to improve / work through the regulatory systems in order to take brands GLOBAL.

  6. There’s a real buzz in this industry about using their retail platforms for good to effect real change in the US. Brands are investing a lot of time/resources/marketing $ into causes around public lands & its important work - & is being heard.

 

DISCLOSURE: This trip was sponsored or partially sponsored by Hilton City Center Hotel, Hotel Jackson, Anvil Hotel and Fly Jackson Hole. I thank each for their warm hospitality and partnership. 

Lofoten Islands: A 6-Day Winter Adventure

So you're like me and don't have 3 full weeks to spend taking the slow route through Lofoten, eh? Say no more. If you're willing to have a couple of "car days" to see as much as possible, you can see much of Lofoten in a short trip - and even have a couple of 'relaxing' days thrown in, to really bask in its beauty. No need to cash in all your vacation days.

One of the best comments I've heard about Lofoten was from one of the owners of Manshausen, where we stayed early in the trip.  Our new friend, the ever-wise Jesper told us, "everyone comes to Lofoten and immediately goes right to it, where they are at the base of the big mountains - but I think you absolutely must also spend some time looking at it from a distance." 

I couldn't agree more. Imagine going to Half Dome in Yosemite and only standing on the top or at the base of it.  You probably wouldn't appreciate it as much as if you had also seen that iconic photo of it in the distance, in the Yosemite Valley would you?  Lofoten is kind of the same way.  My advice: spend a bit of time out, then a bit of time in, a little time on the water, and you'll appreciate Lofoten and its surrounding areas for all of its different facets.

Plus, if you go in the winter like we did, there isn't a whole lot of outdoor adventuring because it's just too darn cold, so you have a lot more time / desire to drive and see the sights.

Spoiler: You may even get the best Northern Lights in the areas surrounding Lofoten, like we did. See for yourself:

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DAY ONE:  BODO/TRYGSAVEN

We flew to Bodo from Amsterdam, which seemed like the best starting point for our journey, given we were first heading to Manshausen.  Some people choose to do the Lofoten roadtrip 'clockwise', but we were advised to do it 'counterclockwise' so that's what we did.  We arrived late at night, but you may have a bit of time to explore Bodo before starting your journey, so I've included a few Bodo recommendations here.  Otherwise, try to stay in Trygsaven the first night.

BODO/TRYGSAVEN

SEE:

EAT/DRINK:

PLACES TO STAY:

DAY TWO: SALTSTRAUMEN / MANSHAUSEN

We got an early start on the day and drove from our apartment home [we stayed at Tuvsjyen Saltstraumen]  to Saltstraumen, to take in the views.  Saltstraumen, as mentioned above, is a natural phenomenon and is the world’s strongest maelstrom. 

Supposedly the best time to go is in the morning, so we grabbed a coffee at the adjacent Saltstraumen Hotel, parked our car under the bridge down the hill, and watched the currents.  Pretty neat, if you catch it at the right time! 

After not too long, we were ready to go.   Biggest tip before you leave the area?  Make a pit stop at the COOP grocery store in Trygsaven to get snacks; mini marts and food shops could be very hard to find hereafter on our trip (in the winter, some were even closed on certain days).  After a quick stop, we were off to Nordskot! 

NORDSKOT

Nordskot is a very, very small coastal Norwegian town, where you will park your car [unless you've used public transportation to get here, which is possible.]  Jesper or Astrid, the owners of Manshausen, will then come to pick you up in the island boat to bring you to Manshausen Island.  Something to note: if you don't want to partake in all of the meals at Manshausen (for example, dinner costs extra every night), you have the option and the facilities to cook on your own, as each seacabin is equipped with a full stove and a loaded kitchen.  We opted out of a few meals, including lunch each day, and appreciated having this option. 

With that said, a tip: stop again at the small shop in Nordskot where you can pick up some goodies/snacks or easy-prepare meals, especially if you didn't stop at the COOP in Trygsaven.  You will appreciate having the option later!  If nothing else, grab a few of the local Norwegian candies for when you need a sugar rush.

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DAY THREE: MANSHAUSEN

The experience on Manshausen is meant to be all inclusive, and the fact that you are isolated on a very small island only reinforces this point.  The meals are slow, local and divine, and you are sure to enjoy great company whether from fellow guests (after all, you have to be pretty awesome to make a trek to this place), or from the owners themselves.  We enjoyed just being, and taking in our surroundings, with no true agenda.  Hours would melt away each day, which is how I knew this was exactly the place I needed to be. 

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For when you do start itching for a bit of activity, Manshausen offers plenty of daily activities for you to consider: hike the adjacent island, go on a kayak adventure, walk around the circumference of the island, or simply idle away in the common room filled with adventure-inspired books and magazines (there are more Nat Geo's here than you could even imagine! <heart eyes emoji>)

We were treated to absolutely incredible views of the Northern Lights both nights that we were there and enjoyed both photographing them from outside of the sea cabin, as well as from our humble abode within.  There aren't too many places where you can lay in bed and fall asleep to views of the auroras bouncing over your head, so the experience is not (and never will) to be taken for granted.  Truly infreakingcredible.

DAY FOUR: MANSHAUSEN/SOLVAER/HENNINGSVAER

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We got up and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast looking out over the water at Manshausen.  Breakfast was abundant, and highlights included fresh bread made on site, local jam, local fish, smoothies made from local fruit and vegetables (are you seeing a theme here?).  After saying our goodbyes to Astrid and Jesper who by this point felt more like friends than hosts, we were soon ready to be escorted back to Nordskot, as we needed to be on our way for a big day's road trip. 

We drove from Nordskot to the Skutvik ferry (timetables HERE) and were soon on our way to our first destination truly IN the Lofoten Islands: Svolvær.

SVOLVAER

SEE:

EAT/DRINK:

KABELVAG

SEE:

EAT/DRINK:

{We didn't spend too much time in these towns - maybe an hour each one, as we had heard that the views were the most beautiful at the final town we would hit later in the day... and we have no regrets about that decision; they were right! Pick and choose carefully, and save appetite for Henningsvaer!]

HENNINGSVÆR

Henningsvaer is known as the "Venice of Lofoten" and lived up to its name.  Plenty of fun shops, restaurants, and stunning 360 degree mountain views, as you walk along the water.  I think I like this Venice better.

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SEE:

  • Everything around you, literally. Pay attention to the painfully cute details on the buildings, water, and the fisherman working away all around you. The best views here are just the everyday ones.
  • Walk the main strip in town & you will run into lots of fun shops including a glass making shop
  • Keep an eye out for all of the fish hanging out to dry around houses around town
  • Supposedly, you can hike up Glomtinden, a short and steady walk up (419m) which ends with terrific views of the Lofoten Islands (we didn't do it due to weather).
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EAT/DRINK:

PLACES TO STAY:

DAY FIVE: BOSTAD / LEKNES / BALLSTAD / HAMNOY / REINE

Because we had a golfer in tow, we threw in a little drive over to Lofoten Links on the way out of town, even though it was slightly out of the way.  Though they were closed for the winter, it was very fun to see and try to imagine how beautiful the course would look with the ocean views during the summer.  Must go back.  From there, it was onto the ever-so-charming town of Bostad, the home of the world's most northernly surf school.  Same rules apply today: we cruised through each town pretty quickly to see the views and get to Hamnoy/Reine while it was still light out.  Again, those towns boasted the best views and food, so snack during the day, and save your eyes and appetite for later!

Something tells me you won't have too much appetite anyway as you'll be seeing a lot of these guys all day:

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BOSTAD

SEE:

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LEKNES

SEE:

EAT/DRINK:

BALLSTAD

SEE:

  • Sarepta Hus {call ahead to make sure they are open! they were closed when we went}
  • Not much else to see here... carry on.

HAMNOY

<< You drive through here on the way to Reine, and this is where we stayed, but it's a VERY small town with only a couple accommodations and a restaurant, so we carried onto Reine; will come back to the Hamnoy tips in a minute!>>

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REINE/SORVAGEN

SEE:

EAT/DRINK:

  • Bringen {an absolute must for breakfast, coffee, & local pastries including more incredible cinnamon rolls - get there early, as they run out!}
  • Vertshuset Lanternen {best stop for an easy sit down meal: pizza + beer}
  • Anitas Sjomat {one of my favorite stops all trip; a great local fish sandwich shop with great ambiance / local delicacies for purchase to bring home!}
  • The Bakery at A {supposedly the best cinnamon rolls, though it was closed while we were there; a summer place!}
  • Maren Anna {slightly out of Reine, in Sorvagen, but worth the very short drive - possibly the best or second best meal all trip!)
  • Gammelbua Restaurant {did not go here, but heard great things!}

  • *TIP: Restaurants can be pricy, so if you are looking for a market, there are two in town - one is a smallish COOP grocery (though check the hours, as they are closed some days) and another is a Circle K gas station mart (which is surprisingly well-stocked after a recent remodel)

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HAMNOY PART 2

SEE:

  • Just walk around the red fisherman's cabins and stop at anything that feels like a good viewpoint on the way in.  There are very few actual lookout points. The classic Instagram photo of Hamnoy is from the bridge that you see just to the left of town as you enter.  Take photos at your own risk, as it is often very gusty (I lost my glove just trying to snap a photo!)

EAT/DRINK:

  • Krambua Restaurant, the restaurant of Eliassen Rorbuer where we stayed {order the fresh white fish of the day with a Lofotpils & you will not be disappointed!)

PLACES TO STAY:

  • Eliassen Rorbuer - while some of my other recommendations are up to you to take or not, this one is a non negotiable. Staying in a refurbished old fisherman's cabin was an absolute highlight of the experience - right down to the cold, windy night we endured when an unexpected snow storm blew through.  This is one not to be missed!

DAY SIX: REINE / BODO

We took the Moskenes ferry to Bodo (about 3.5 hours long), and upon arrival at the terminal, found that we were only 20 minutes from the airport, which allowed us ample time to fill up the tank with gas (there is a Shell station on your way to the airport from the ferry terminal), return the car, and get to our flight!

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

You can access our Google Map counter-clockwise trip map HERE.

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