Between Vines and Valleys: A Fall Road Trip Through Italy & Slovenia's Mountains and Coast

October 21, 2025 Laura Lisowski

When we sat down for coffee in Ljubljana with Alexander Ruiz, the owner of Crno Zrno, and told him about our trip through Northern Italy and Slovenia, he smiled and said “ah, so you’re doing a bit of what the Japanese call momiji-gari… wonderful”.

The word was new to me, but momiji-gari is a Japanese tradition dating back to the Nara period, and means quite literally, to appreciate the changing colors of the leaves. And yes, that’s exactly what we were doing - following the season as it shifted through the mountains, valleys, and coastlines, from alpine gardens to vineyards and the Adriatic Sea. But this trip wasn’t just about racing through in an effort to check off postcard views; it was about paying attention - to how tomatoes taste at the end of summer, how the air changes as you move south, and how much time, care and restraint are built into daily life here. From the slow food kitchens of Alto Adige to the orange wine producers of Soca valley, every stop offered new perspective and stimulated our senses in a totally new way.

If you’re looking for a 2 or so week road trip guide through Northern Italy and Slovenia to soak in everything from alpine vineyards to the Adriatic coast, you’ve come to the right place. If you have less time than 2 weeks, also great. Just pick the pieces that suit your tastes and make your own adventure. We wanted to be as comprehensive as possible to give you the ‘greatest hits’, but by no means do you have to hit it all.

ALTO ADIGE: Brixen, Bruneck, Bolzano

Brixen/Vals

Where to Stay: Haller Suites and/or Silena, your soulful hotel

Haller Suites & Restaurant in Bressanone is a family-run gem that captures the essence of Sudtirol hospitality in a (chest)nut shell. Perched among the vineyards overlooking the Eisack Valley, the property offers a harmonious blend of architecture, nature, and heart-infused service. The Haller family has created a space with deep connection to the landscape; their instagram handle really says it all @sleepinthevineyards - and that you do at Haller. Minimalist suites are framed by panoramic vineyard views, and everything from construction materials to the food found in their on-site restaurant is all locally-sourced. Every detail, from the sustainable building philosophy to the curated breakfast with regional products reflects their respect for both place and people.

At the heart of Haller Suites are Teresa and Levin, the passionate duo who make up the fabric of what Haller is today. Teresa oversees the guest experience with genuine care and creative flair, while her husband - the chef behind the acclaimed AO Restaurant - brings South Tyrolean ingredients to life with pizazz and creativity not often found. Together they’ve transformed their family legacy into a destination that you can’t help but form a personal connection to. Food tells a story and every moment feels like you are exactly where you are meant to be. Staying at Haller is so much more than just a casual stopover; it’s an immersion experience into the rhythm, flavor and family spirit of the region.

SILENA, your soulful hotel is a vacation dream filled with stillness and indulgence. Its design is deeply influenced by Japanese wabi-sabi philosphy with its natural textures, earthy tones, and yet quirky paper lighting, paper cranes, and funky accents all about. For being an adult-only hotel, they also throw in some kid-like fun to humor your inner child: an art room for creating/drawing/painting something memorable from your day, a candy and popcorn station, and a reading room full of large chairs you want to sink your butt into for hours.

The atmosphere, accordingly, is both alpine and Asian/modern, bringing together South Tyrolean roots with mindful design. The spa area is a world of its own - like walking into the doors of Narnia to another plane of existence. There’s a seemingly endless maze of pools, saunas and serene relaxation rooms (don’t say we didn’t warn you: it’s actually easy to get lost in there!). Each room is also plenty big for 2, with a king size bed and a separate reading room where one can curl up for hours reading a book whilst avoiding the elements. The wabi sabi continues throughout each suite and onto the balcony where one can sit in a swinging hammock and take in the valley views.

Mornings begin with an incredible breakfast experience: a buffet made for kings with color and freshness paired with a la carte options that change seasonally. The homemade muesli and fresh squeezed carrot ginger juices alone are worth the trip. Then there are the small rituals that make SILENA so soulful, like the little wooden box each guest receives each day with a daily surprise; often a quote, or a small token, meant as a gentle reminder to be fully present. Evenings bring another kind of magic: a bartender with flair, shaking up cocktails throwing cups around like you’re at the circus. Dinner is included and features delicate but filling dishes of your choosing depending on your hunger level that evening.

There’s also an extensive wine list that highlights both South Tyrolean and international bottles and a staff that is always kicking around for any extra indulgence you might need. Design, hospitality and soul blend seamlessly into something quietly unforgettable.

Where to Eat/Drink: AO Restaurant is part of Haller Restaurant in Alto Adige and is our top pick. With Teresa and Levin of Haller at the helm, they bring an obsessive attention to detail to everything from the garden to the glass. The experience feels very intentional but approachable with service and food that’s relaxed but exact, and a tasting menu that shifts with the season and the bounty of the region. Our dinner opened with tomatoes from their own garden topped with pecorino foam and basil oil - a small dish that captures their whole approach: precision, restraint, and produce with a twist. From there, radicchio with blue cheese, venison ragu cappelletti, and beef cheek with carrots three ways. Each plate was well-balanced and clean and paired perfectly with many new-to-us Alto Adige skin contact whites and reds, which was an adventure in and of itself. The beetroot sorbet with chocolate mousse for dessert absolutely blew us away, proof that even nutrient-dense root vegetables can make a perfect dessert.

The wine pairings trace the route from Brixen down to Bolzano, featuring local producers like Roeck, Grawu, and various Lagrein (native to Alto Adige). The pairings don’t just complement the food, they explain the terroir - high acid, alpine whites, textured orange wines, and reds with just enough structure to remind you where you are.

Levin’s background shows in the precision of flavor and timing, but what stood out most to us is how deeply the food is tied to place. Vegetables come from their own type of “chaos” garden, meat from nearby farms, honey from local beekeepers. The cooking is elevated for sure, but also surprisingly grounded and grounding. Alpine ingredients are to be handled with humility and discipline, not ego, and Levin gets it exactly right.

Things To Do: Hike the Adolf Munkel Weg, an easy favorite for the Dolomites, with views of the Odle peaks that truly do not feel real. Stop at one of the mountain hut restaurants along the way (Geisleralm or Dusleralm - just check the hours if traveling in the fall) for ribs, a mountaineer platter of cheese, speck, and pickles and/or a cold beer / aperol spritz.

Take the lift up to Seceda in Val Gardena for that classic Instagrammable ridgeline view; it’s worth every cliche photo you’ve seen of it. Enjoy a meal or a cocktail or maybe just a nap in one of the many cozy chairs at Baiti Sofie Hutte up top of the lift. After, spend an afternoon exploring Urtijëi (Ortisei) the nearby alpine town. It’s walkable, beautiful and full of small shops, cafes, and a humble but majestic rhythm that makes the whole valley special.

Bonus stop in the area: swing by Roeck wines. We first learned about them from our tasting menu at Haller Suites and were ecstatic to find that they were a quick drive away. They represent a newer generation of small alpine producers redefining what it means to make wine in the mountains. The estate focuses on minimal intervention and a deep respect for elevation, working steep slopes where the cool climate, rocky soils and sharp diurnal shifts give their wines tension and clarity. They’ve become known for their expressive whites - riesling, sylvaner, and muller-thurgau, all of which carry the precision of Germanic winemaking but with the texture and minerality that only comes from this part of Italy.

Interesting tidbits to know: This is a bilingual region with three cultures; Alto Adige (or Sudtirol in German) sits in Italy’s far north, bordering Austria. Most locals grow up speaking German and Italian and in some valleys, Ladin, a romanesque alpine language that predates both. Menus, road signs and even surnames often appear in all three languages. The region only became part of Italy after WWI, and much of its Austro-Hungarian heritage remains. It’s why you’ll find knodel (bread dumplings) next to tagliatelle on the same menu, and prosecco poured alongside reisling. The ultimate fusion of regions are seen expressed in all walks of life.

Despite it’s size, Alto Adige produces some of Italy’s best white and orange wines - pinot grigio, gewurtztraminer, and sylvaner thrive in the mountain sun and cool nights. It’s also one of Europe’s largest apple-growing regions, with over 7,000 producers across the Eisack and Adige valleys.

Brixen itself is one of Tyrol’s oldest towns, having been founded in 901AD, with nearly 1,100 years of uninterrupted settlement. The baroque cathedral and bishop’s palace still mark the historic center of town.

Brixen also sits at the heart of “keschtnweg,” or the Chestnut trail, a hiking route that winds through the hills between Brixen and Bolzano. Every autumn, the slopes are lined with ancient sweet chestnut trees, some hundreds of years old, growing alongside vineyards and apple orchards. Locals say the trees are as much a part of the landscape as the mountains themselves as they’ve been cultivated since medieval times, originally planted by monks. The harvest season is marked by torggelen, a South Tyrolean tradition where farmers and locals gather to roast chestnuts over open fires, drink to the novello (new year’s wine), and share platters of meats, cheeses, dumplings.

Bruneck

Where to Stay: Castel Maurn is unequivocably the best choice in the region and is a place we will return to time and time again. It sits quietly in the Puster Valley near Brunico. Originally built as a residence for local nobility, its stone walls impressively date back over a thousand years. The castle passed through several hands before falling into disrepair in the 20th century. In 2019, then current owner and South Tyrolean hotelier Walter and his family took on the project of meticulously restoring it - not as a museum piece, but as a livable contemporary retreat that respects the structure’s past.

After years of meticulous renovation, the property reopened its doors in 2021 as a small luxury stay blending medieval architecture (and absolutely stunning all original artwork adorning its walls) with modern design and hospitality conveniences. Original frescoes and vaulted ceilings remain, paired with natural materials and quiet lighting. Each of the 13 suites feels private and fit for a king - as they are around 4-5x bigger than your average hotel room, a huge plus for the weary traveler. Walter’s approach balances heritage and hospitality, trusting guests with an honor bar, inviting local chefs for intimate dinners, and keeping the castle’s atmosphere calm and unforced. You may even see one of the castle’s resident kitties wandering around, if you’re lucky.

Staying at Castel Maurn feels like awakening one’s inner child, fulfilling all of one’s fantasies to someday let their hair down and live in the most luxurious castle, hang out in the spa, and be served breakfast in bed every single morning. Divine!

Where to Eat/Drink: alpINN restaurant up the Kronplatz is fine dining at altitude, with creative dishes using local produce and herbs from the mountains paired with panoramic views. Many other exceptional michelin restaurants are in the vicinity as well including SanBrite and Cocun Cellar. We were also a huge fan of Pizzeria Hans in San Candido about 30 minutes away… great easy pastas and pizzas for dining in or taking out. Easy and delicious for post-hike days.

Things To Do: Explore the old town. Bruneck’s center is small but full of life - pastel facades, narrow cobblestone streets and cafes spilling onto the sidewalks. Stop by stadtgasse for boutiques, bakeries and aperitivo spots that feel local rather than touristy. Do not miss the famous Acherer Pastisserie Blumen, one of the best chocolate shops in Europe in our humble opinion!

Visit Bruneck Castle + the Messner Mountain Museum up the Kronplatz. Created by the famous South Tyrolean mountaineer Reinhold Messner, the Messner Mountain museums are a collection of six sites across South Tyrol and Veneto, each exploring a different aspect of mountain culture. Instead of a single large museum, Messner designed them as a network, from medieval castles to remote peaks, meant to be experienced in the landscape itself. Each location combines art, history and storytelling around themes like rock, ice, faith, philosophy and exploration.

The museums include: MMM Firmian, MMM Juval, MMM Dolomites, MMM Ortles, MMM Ripa (Bruneck Castle), and MMM Corones (the newest, and arguably most striking).

MMM Corones up the Kronplatz is perched at 2,275m atop Plan de Corones and is the architectural centerpiece of the series of museums. Designed by Zaha Hadid, the museum is built directly into the mountain itself - concrete galleries that emerge from the rock like a glacier breaking through stone. Inside, it tells the story of modern mountaineering (no, not the assembly line on Everest kind): risk, courage, and the mindsets that shaped alpine climbing. Large windows open onto the Dolomites, turning the landscape into part of the exhibit, as one watches paragliders drift by outside its windows. The design mirrors Messner’s philosophy: that mountains aren’t just to be conquered, but understood.

When you’re ready for alpine views and hikes, take a drive to the world famous Lago Di Braies. It is one of the most photographed lakes in the Dolomites (which unfortunately means there are often a lot of people there with the same photo aspirations, go early for sunrise to avoid that as much as possible). It is surrounded by steep limestone peaks, and the water shifts from deep emerald to turquoise depending on the light. You can rent an old wooden rowboat, walk the 3.5km trail around the lake or just sit with a coffee from the small cafe on the shore.

Go spend a day hiking and exploring around Tre Cime di Lavaredo (by far our favorite hike of the trip - it is STUNNING!), as they are the Dolomites’ most iconic silhouettes, with massive limestone towers rising straight out of alpine meadows. The loop trail around them starts from Rifugio Auronzo and takes about 3-4 hours, with ever-changing views the whole way around. Be sure to stop by Lago Misurina thereafter for some killer views!

Lastly, take a hike up the gorgeous trail to Lake Sorapis which sits high in the Dolomites near Cortina d’Ampezzo. It’s a glacial lake famous for its unreal milky turquoise color, caused by suspended rock flour from surrounding peaks. The hike starts from Passo Tre Croci and takes about 4 hours roundtrip, climbing through forest trails and rocky switchbacks before opening up to the lake at 1,900m. There is a tiny bit of exposure, so if you’re traveling with a dog or a small child or just not a huge fan of that sort of thing, maybe pick something a bit more tame! Be aware as well that though larch season was in full swing in mid October, the lake was relatively dry and less brilliant blue as it may have been in say, early Spring… so time your visit accordingly!

Interesting tidbits to know: Bruneck was established in the 13th century by Prince-Bishop Bruno von Kirchberg - which is where Bruneck gets its name. The castle above town was his seat of power, and it still dominates the skyline today.

This is also known as the beer town of the Dolomites, as Forst beer is brewed just 30 minutes away in Merano. Bruncio also has its own scene - small local breweries and alpine-style bars where beer, speck and music anchor you well into the evenings.

Bruneck is another one of those towns that sits right in the middle of South Tyrol’s German and Italian speaking regions which is why you will hear both languages. Menus, signs, and even small talk naturally switch between the two (and sometimes Ladin in the nearby valleys).

Bolzano

Where to Stay: Theiner’s Garten is a family-run biodynamic hotel and orchard in South Tyrol, led by Ingo Theiner. Their family has farmed the land for three generations and their 7 hectare property produces over a dozen fruit varieties - mostly apples, alongside pears, plums and peaches, all certified Demeter, the highest international standard for biodynamic agriculture.

The Theiner's Garten approach is rooted in the natural rhythm of the land: fertilizing with the traditional cow-horn compost mixture each spring, spraying mineral preparations in summer to strengthen the trees, and relying on hedgerows, bees, and even hedgehogs to maintain balance instead of chemicals. Their orchards are densely planted and vertically trained, a method that maximizes both sunlight and space in a region where microfarms dominate the valley.

Water comes from a strong local table fed by alpine snowmelt, and every part of the ecosystem is given careful consideration - from soil microbiome management to flower planting for pollinators. The result isn’t just healthier fruit but a circular, living farm that sustains itself. Beyond the orchards, the property includes an eco hotel designed entirely around sustainability: solar energy, natural materials (the dining room tables themselves are made out of apple wood!), and an organic kitchen that uses their own produce. It’s less of a resort and more of a working philosophy; proof that luxury and environmental integrity can exist in the same place.

Dinners at Theiner’s Garten reflect everything about how they run the farm - the kitchen works almost entirely from their own biodynamic principles and produce or that of nearby fellow Demeter-certified farms, so the menu shifts constantly with the season. What shows up on the plate is whatever’s ready in the orchards or gardens: apples, plums, root vegetables, herbs and mountain greens. You’ll see the same balance in the food as in the orchards: nothing wasted, everything cyclical. House-pressed juices, local natural wines, and the kind of bread/pastries that you just know someone was up early making. Meals at Theiner’s feel like being invited to a family dinner in the orchard: slow, grounded, and immersed in the land right outside your window.

Dinner with edible flowers from the Theiner’s Garten

Where to Eat/Drink: We highly suggest enjoying your meals at Theiner’s as they have food around nearly every hour of the day. But if you must expand beyond that, go to Merano and eat at Soulfood (a great recc from our friend Dominic at GRAWÜ wine!) or head to the exquisite Miil in Cermes.

Things To Do: Check out Baron Longo winery. It’s a small, family-run producer that focuses on low-intervention, organically farmed wines made with native grapes like rebula, merlot and cab franc. The philosophy is familiar to us: minimal use of additives, fermentation with native yeasts and long aging to let the wine express the distinct marl and limestone soils of the area. Tastings here feel more conversational and less presentation, which makes it a lovely place to visit to learn and soak in knowledge.

Go to GRAWÜ and enjoy a tasting with Dominic. This was our favorite wine experience in all of Italy/Slovenia, so it’s a must! GRAWÜ is the project of Dominic Grauvogl and his wife Natalie, founded in 2013 in Southern South Tyrol. The name GRAWÜ comes from combining their surnames - Grauvogl and Wulfing - a nod to partnership, both personal and creative.

Dominic started his career as a somm and winemaker working in top restaurants and vineyards across Europe before deciding to return to the mountains to make wine on his own terms, after being struck with inspiration after one particular blind tasting. His philosophy centers on place, patience, and a dogged determination to create the type of wine HE believes to be the truest expression of the land, not just what he’s told by others his wine should be. Minimal intervention, spontaneous fermentation and no additives other than a touch of sulfur when necessary. Everything is grown organically, with a particular focus on expressing altitude and soil rather than perfect uniformity.

Dominic aspires to make wines that evoke emotion, and that he does with wild success. The wines themselves are textural and alive - high acid, structured, and unapologetically alpine. He’s known for his pinot grigio, which spends five days on skins and tastes like grapefruit and mountain air, his gewurtztraminer which is intense but dry, and his gruner veltliner, one of the few made in Italy, all tension and minerality. For Dominic, wine isn’t a product. It’s a long conversation between vineyard and cellar. He talks about time as an ingredient - so much so that perhaps it should be on the bottle alongside “grapes”. Each bottle feels like it was made by someone who pauses to listen first - a true sign of wisdom - then decides what to do.

We also recommend swinging by Thomas Niedermayr to catch more wines in the same thread as GRAWU. They were closed on our visit, but we’ve heard amazing things so will have to catch it on our next trip.

We also greatly enjoyed swinging by Reyter winery. We probably should have made an appointment, but we didn’t, and they welcomed us with open arms when we knocked on their door late on our way to dinner one afternoon. Family-owned and run by Andreas and Katrin Reyter, they focus on natural winemaking with minimal intervention. Andreas talks about “happy mistakes” and adaptation, letting nature dictate the rhythm of production. When the cellar proved to be too humid, he added a stone wall to improve oxygen flow; when corks failed, he switched to glass closures. Everything is treated as a chance to refine, not control and the result is interesting wine that is alive, expressive and distinctly alpine in its clarity. The lineup changes with the vintage but the standouts are often their rose (a not-so-rose, kissed by skin contact), a structured pinot noir, and a mountain white blend that perfectly captures the minerality of the Eisack valley. The family’s excitement for wine is infectious and on that alone, this is a worthy stop.

Reyter cellar with newly built stone wall

One last great spot we’d recommend stopping into a bit further south is Azienda Agricola Foradori. Located in the narrow Campo Rotaliano Valley near Mezzolombardo, and surrounded by the Dolomites, Foradori reshaped what Trentino - and mountain wine itself - could mean. When she took over her family’s estate in the 1980’s, Trentino was dominated by cooperatives and industrial-scale production, focused on efficiency and yield. She chose another path. Over decades, she brought back the native Teroldego grape, converted her vineyards to biodynamic farming, and reintroduced amphora aging long before its recent resurgence. Fermentation in clay, wild yeasts, minimal sulfur and an unwavering respect for soil health became her language. Her quiet defiance has made her one of Europe’s most influential voices in natural wine.

Her influence stretches far beyond the Dolomites - even to Beckham Estate, who we visited earlier this year in Oregon’s Willamette Valley much closer to home. Their founders, Andrew and Annedria Beckham, craft their own clay amphorae inspired by Foradori’s methods. She’s become a mentor and friend to them, part of a quiet exchange between two continents built not on marketing, but on shared values: purity, patience, and trust in the land. Foradori’s children continue the work she began with the same devotion. Their wines - Granato, Morei and Sgarzon - are structured and shaped by alpine light and the gravelly soils of the Rotalian plain. Foradori serves as the alpine counterpart to the likes of Radikon and Gravner.

Interesting tidbits to know: Bolzano sits in a valley surrounded by vineyards and limestone peaks and is the official entrance to the Dolomites. It’s one of the greenest cities in Italy and yet well connected, so you can hike, drink wine, and catch a modern art show all in one afternoon; a true melting pot of culture. Around 70% of locals speak German as their first language, 25% Italian, and a small percentage speak Ladin.

It’s also home to Otzi, the iceman, one of Europe’s most important archeological finds, a 5,300 year old glacier mummy discovered in the nearby Otztal Alps. Otzi is preserved in the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology and worth a visit as he is Bolzano’s most famous resident.

FRIULI/ GORSIKA BRDA

Where to Stay: La Subida, Klinec Medana, or Peterc Vineyard Estate. We’ve stayed at La Subida in the past which you can read about here, and have heard great things about staying at both Klinec Medana and Peterc. You also have the option to just pass through Gorsika Brda en route to other places. Great news is that everything is so close by that you can be in a bigger city in less than an hour.

Where to Eat/Drink: Edi Simcic, Klinec Medana, La Subida, Osteria Aglia Antenati, Azienda Agricola Terpin Franco, Radikon, Gravner, Nicolas Juretic, Cormons

Our first stop was at Radikon, which was unashamedly the stop we were most coveting, having read about their revolutionary ways of making wine in the book Amber Revolution. Stepping onto their property predictably felt like stepping into a living piece of wine history. Their cellar in Oslavia sits on land that has seen centuries of upheaval - from the Isonzo front in WWI, where the hills ran red with blood, to the Yugoslav border years when the region was literally divided into two. Yet through all of the drama, the vines remained.

When Stanko Radikon took over the family estate in the 1970’s, he saw a system that had traded patience for production: wines built for consistency, not character. In the 1990’s, he and his friend Josko Gravner quietly started a revolution (thus the book title): fermenting white grapes with their skins again, rejecting additives and filtration, and trusting time instead of control. The world thought they were out of their minds at the time - until it realized they were right.

Today, Sasa Radikon and his sister Ivana carry that vision forward, blending tradition with a humble evolution. The philosophy remains the same: long macerations, years in large oak barriques, and wines that speak more of soil and sunlight than of technique. They’ve expanded into the Slovenian side of the hills, experimenting with altitude and soil variation while holding onto the patience that defines the estate. Every detail matters here from the hand-trimmed vines and grass left high to protect biodiversity, to the bees that once saved hail-damaged crop by sealing broken grapes with natural wax. Radikon’s wines aren’t chasing trends, they just simply *are* the foundation of one. What began as an act of resistance - to chemicals, speed, uniformity - has become a blueprint for authenticity in modern winemaking.

Aw at vintage wines being saved at Radikon

Radikon tasting room with a view on vineyards

Upon our friend Dominic’s suggestion, we popped by Nikolas Juretic next. Nikolas represents the new generation reshaping what “natural wine” means. He’s young, curious, and unburdened by dogma. He’s less interested in rules and more in observing what the fruit tells him it wants to become. His cellar is small, functional, and open to improvisation year over year. While producers like Radikon and Gravner spent decades proving that time could be the most powerful ingredient, Nikolas reminds you that immediacy has its place too. His wines are fresh, alive, and spontaneous - proof that authenticity doesn’t necessarily require age, just intention.

Juretic works with small parcels across Brda, handling each batch differently depending on what the season gives him. Skin contact usually lasts a week or two, enough to give texture and grip without overpowering the fruit. His reds are aged only a year or two, his whites and oranges left to find their own rhythm. The result is a wine that feels… strangely human? Flexible, evolving, a little unpredictable. He talks about fermentation like it’s an experiment, not a ritual, and about how nature will usually correct you if you let it. Compared to Radikon’s slow monumentality, Nikolas’ work feels more present tense. It’s curious, full of energy, and communicates with a quiet confidence that the future of Brda winemaking doesn’t need to be loud, just honest.

Lastly, we stopped by Edi Simcic for a few hour tasting and made quick friends with our hostess and fellow tasters. Edi Simcic is one of the names that helped put Goriska Brda on the global wine map. Founded in the early 1990’s, the estate grew out of Slovenia’s post-Yugoslav shift - a time when winemakers were rediscovering both freedom and their new identity. Edi began experimenting with barrel-aged whites when most of the region was still chasing volume, not quality. His approach was bold for his time (can you tell we are a big fan of the pioneering type?); extended macerations, long aging in oak, and a deep respect for the character of rebula, chardonnay and sav blanc grown on the region’s ponka soils. These wines felt structured, serious, built to last, bridging the finesse of Burgundy with the soulful character of the Adriatic.

Today, Edi’s son Alek carries on the work, continuously refining without diluting the original message. Their cellar in Vipolze hums with modern equipment and old world patience. While many of their peers on both sides of the border turned towards the radical minimalism of orange wine, the Simcic family has continued to stay focused on balance in their wines. Their “opus di” and “kolos” bottlings are benchmarks for Slovenian whites. In a region defined these days by experimentation, Edi Simcic represents continuity and proof that passion when guided by respect for land and time can coexist.

Things to Do: The main attraction in this area is most certainly wine country, so we’d recommend focusing on that whilst in the region. But walk around Cormons, visit the Gonjace Lookout tower, pop into Smartno village, go see the Dobrovo Castle, and also keep your eye out for olive oil tastings. Olive oils here rival anything from Tuscany, and you can find local mills that do tastings with a full spread of cured meats, cheese, etc.

Bonus suggestion: if you are in the area in mid to late October as we were, we very highly recommend stopping by the VNDIMA annual natural wine festival, typically held at Klinec Medana. The whole region slows down and comes together and it’s an incredible opportunity to try all of the big name wines in one singular place. Vndima feels like you’ve been invited into the home of every single winemaker you ever admired, and they give you a peek behind the scenes at themselves, their stories, and of course, their wines. The Klinec family opens their cellar and terrace for a weekend that feels half festival, half reunion. Winemakers, friends, locals, and a few brave tourists like ourselves spill into the multiple courtyards, music plays until late, and bottles move from table to glass faster than anyone can keep track.

The name Vndima means “harvest” and that’s exactly what is being celebrated - the end of months of hard work and the start of something new in the cellar. The setting truly makes it special - views stretching out over the Goriska Brda hills, the sun setting behind the vineyards as a backdrop to your pinkish wine Instagram photo, and the kind of atmosphere that only happens when people who live by the rhythm of the land come together to celebrate it. An absolutely timeless, unbeatable experience!

SLOVENIA: Izola, Kranjska Gora & Ljubljana

Adriatic Coast - Izola/Piran

Where to Stay: DeGrassi Boutique Garni Hotel in Izola is one of the rare places that really reminds you what hospitality is meant to be. The rooms are modern and quiet, complete with your own jacuzzi and sauna room (!) but what sets it apart is its people. The owners and staff treat you less like guests and more like friends passing through their hometown. Upon checking in, they gave us the full lay of the land: where to park, where to eat in town and in nearby town of Piran, which wine bars and restaurants were worth it, and how to navigate the coastal roads like a local. This level of care is rare. In a region where there are certainly a plethora of properties to choose from, Degrassi stands out precisely because it is small, human, and personal.

Our first night set the tone for the stay. Live music spilled through the restaurant and the courtyard, with locals and guests mingling over glasses of wine, and a relaxed open energy prevalent. It made it hard for us to call it a night, as we walked through the lobby carrying gelato and smiling at all of the enjoyment. Mornings were just as good: a proper breakfast with still-warm local croissants, fresh fruit, and made-to-order omelets.

Where to Eat/Drink: Fortunately, our concierge/all staff at DeGrassi were extremely helpful with finding local favorites (worth booking to stay there on that alone!) and tipped us off to a few excellent spots. Hotel Marina, Rostelin, Kantina Robi Tomsic, Srebrna Vilica, Stara Gostilna Vecchia Osteria, Pri Mari, Hisa Torkla, Mazioli Wine Bar

The absolute treat of a meal for us though was in Piran at Rostelin. Rostelin is a small elegant restaurant in Piran that focuses on fresh, house-made pasta and local seafood. It is modern in style but still deeply tied to its Adriatic seafood roots - dishes like black cuttlefish tagliolini, truffle tartare, and simple clams with white wine and garlic come out looking effortless but were assuredly some of the best flavors we enjoyed all trip.

Things to Do: Wander Izola’s old town. Explore the cobblestone streets and coastal breezes of Piran. Visit the Lisjak olive oil farm. Go to Zaro wines or Bric wines overlooking the town of Izola. Swim and sit in the sun at Fornace beach. Ride e-bikes along the Parenzana trail, the old railway turned coastal path.

Piran is built on a narrow peninsula that juts into the Adriatic. The town folds into itself with stone lanes twisting between faded Venetian facades, laundry strung between windows, and the sound of church bells carrying on the sea breeze. Walking through, it slowly reveals itself to you, from the bright expanse of Tartini square where locals sip espresso under pastel buildings, up towards St George’s church and its bell tower that watches over the entire coastline. From there, you can see Croatia to the south, Italy to the North, and the terracotta rooftops below glowing in the late light. Descending through alleyways, you catch glimpses of turquoise water at the end of each street and may accidentally find yourself wandering into the harbor alongside fishermen untangling their nets. It is a wondrous place to just get lost… to be found. Or something like that.

Setting up for Pier Izola, a local event to highlight businesses

Interesting tidbits to know: Izola means island in Italian, and rightfully so as it was once a small island off the coast that was connected to the mainland in the early 19th century when the channel separating it was filled in by the Austrians. The town’s fishing heritage runs deep; it was one of the major ports supplying Venice with fish and olive oil, and many of its stone houses were built by seafaring families.

During the Austro-Hungarian empire, Izola was known for its vino izolanum, a local white wine prized by traders along the Adriatic. The tradition lives on through small coastal producers and the nearby Zaro winery. Speaking of wines, the Manzioli palace, where the Manzioli wine bar now operates, dates back to the 16th century and is one of the best preserved examples of Venetian Gothic architecture in Slovenia.

Piran is often called “little Venice” as it was under Venetian rule for more than 500 years, and you can still see the winged lion of St. Mark carved into its city gates. The town’s most famous resident was Giuseppe Tartini, an 18th century violinist and composer. Tartini Square, the heart of Piran, was built on what used to be the inner harbor. Piran itself is today pedestrian-only. Cars are banned and even deliveries are done on small electric carts. The result is a rare kind of quiet calm for a coastal town.

Salt from nearby Secovlje salt pans, produced using traditional methods dating back to the 13th century, was once one of the main currencies of the region. They aptly called it “white gold” and it financed much of Venetian Piran.

Kranjska Gora/Kobarid

Where to Stay: Nebesa Chalets or Hisa Franko

Nebesa means “heaven” in Slovenian and it’s not hard to see why its owners would have named this property accordingly. The Nebesa Chalets sit high above the Soca Valley near Livek, and boast panoramic views of the Julian Alps and the flowing emerald river below. It was founded by Alenka and Drago Komel, who envisioned a place that embodied calm and simplicity - a retreat built around silence, space, and a connection to nature. Instead of a traditional hotel, they designed four glass and wood chalets that blend into the mountainside, letting the landscape take center stage.

Today, their daughter Maja and her husband Samo Kanellopulos carry the torch and the vision forward into the future. They’ve kept everything intentional - minimalist, quiet, and relaxing. Mornings begin with a spread of still-warm pastries, yogurt, fruit, all arranged in a dining space that feels like a home kitchen. Guests can help themselves throughout the day to a tucked-away room stocked with local Tolmin cheeses, cured meats, olives, and wines from Goriska Brda - everything on the honor system. A small wellness area offers a Finnish sauna, infrared room, and a panoramic relaxation space where the mountains fill every window. In the evenings, the light shifts to pink over the valley and you can walk barefoot out to the terrace with a glass of Rebula or Pinot Gris from nearby producers like Klinec or Edi Simcic.

Though many come to Nebesa simply to be still, it’s also perfectly placed for year round exploration of the region. Kobarid, a short drive away, is rich in WWI history and home to the Kobarid Museum, Chefs Table Michelin restaurant Hisa Franko, and the impossibly turquoise Soca River, often called the most beautiful river in Europe. Nearby, hiking trails lead to waterfalls, alpine meadows, and the old frontline paths that cross into Italy. But the real draw of Nebesa happens when you come back to your chalet each night: the quiet hum of the sauna, the stirring of the nearby goats, the table laid with wine and speck, and the feeling that high above the valley, time has finally slowed down enough for you to breathe in and appreciate the fresh alpine air.

Where to Eat/Drink: Hisa Franko is by far the most well-known in the region, as it is Ana Ros’ flagship restaurant (World’s 50 Best, 3 Michelin stars) and is the heart of Kobarid’s food scene. Set in her family home, it’s a boundary-pushing expression of the Soca Valley’s wild abundance - foraged herbs, alpine trout, local butter, all reimagined through Ana’s intuitive, deeply personal cooking. A true once-in-a-lifetime type of meal - or should I say, *experience*. I visited years ago before all the Michelin stars and can attest that it is worth every penny.

That said, Hisa Polonka, just down the road, is a casual tavern run by Ana and her partner Valter Kramar, and is much more approachable. It’s where locals go for craft beer, roasted pork, and the legendary frika (a crispy potato-and-cheese dish you’ll crave long after leaving). They pour natural wines and their own house brews and the energy is pure, easy Slovenian hospitality.

Drink Slowine, run by sommelier Alen Audic is another excellent choice. This cozy natural wine bar in Kobarid is an essential stop for anyone exploring the region’s orange wine scene. Expect an ever-changing list of bottles from Gorsika Brda, Friuli and the Soca valley. It’s relaxed, communal, and you’ll probably walk out with drool down your shirt like we did.

Things To Do: Hike Slap Kozjak, Explore the Soca Gorge, visit the Kobarid Museum documenting the Isonzo Front during WWII, walk the Kobarid Historical trail, Mangart Pass, explore the Tolmin Gorge, drive over Vrsic pass, hike to Mount Kolovrat ridge, lined with restored WWII bunkers.

Interesting tidbits to know: The story of Kobarid begins in war before it turns to peace. Known to Italians as Caporetto, this quiet valley town became infamous during the 12th battle of Isonzo in 1917 - one of the decisive moments of the first world war. The battle was so significant that “Caporetto” entered the Italian language as a synonym for total defeat. Ernest Hemingway served nearby as an ambulance driver and later immortalized the region’s mix of beauty and brutality in a Farewell to Arms. Today, the same ridgelines once carved by artillery are covered in beech forest, and the town’s Kobarid Museum stands as one of Europe’s best small war museums.

The bora wind, which rushes down from the Karst plateau is both feared and revered. It can reach hurricane forces, flatten vines, and clear the skies in a matter of hours. Winemakers around Goriska Brda and Friuli plan their harvests around it, calling it nature’s broom - destructive but at times cleansing.

Kobarid and Tolmin are famous for tolminc, a semi-hard mountain cheese that’s been made the same way for centuries. Many families also keep bees - not just for honey, but as part of biodynamic farming practice. Food serves as a major source of resistance in the region. After the wars, the region’s identity was nearly erased by shifting borders and occupations - Italian, Austro-Hungarian, Yugoslav. The revival of local food traditions (cheeses, cured meats, herbal liquers) became a quiet act of cultural preservation. Today’s slow food and natural wine movement here is in many ways a continuation of that.

Running through it all is the Soca River, the valley’s soul and it’s most famous geographical image. It’s exquisite turquoise color comes from glacial minerals suspended in the water, earning it the nickname of the emerald river. Over the years, it inspired painters, poets and national pride - with Simon Gregorcic most famously writing his poem “To The Soca” in Kobarid in the 19th century. It celebrated the river’s beauty long before the war turned it into a frontline:

you are splendid, daughter of the heights,

you are graceful in your natural beauty;

clear you flow in your purity,

so pure and holy, Soca!

After WWI, the poem became all the more poignant; its final lines mourning the blood that would one day stain the river’s banks was a prophecy. Gregorcic’s words are still taught to every Slovene student, and locals can quote it by heart.

Ljubljana

Where to Stay: AS Hotel Ljubljana is a sleek, design-forward boutique hotel directly in Ljubljana’s vibrant city center. It blends a midcentury-like vibe and contemporary elegance with the city’s relaxed, creative and bustling energy. Housed within a modern architectural gem, it offers spacious, posh, minimalist rooms with high-end finishes, and curated local artwork through the hallways. The attention to detail and class makes even casual corners and ceilings resemble an art gallery. Notably, there are three restaurants on site, including Ana Ros’ (who we love loudly!) more approachable Jaz restaurant. AS restaurant is also on site and known for its Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and excellent wine list. With the central location just a short walk from the Old Town, Tivoli Park, and the riverfront cafes, AS Hotel Ljubljana is a perfect base for appreciative travelers seeking a mix of urban sophistication, quiet, and local charm. Bonus if you’re in town during mid-October as we were, as we also had front row seats to the Ljubljana marathon and enjoyed sipping coffee on our terrace as the runners scampered to the start and hobbled away from the finish line.

AS Hotel Ljubljana entrance off main streets

Where to Eat/Drink: Tabar was by far our favorite spot for dinner. It embodies what modern Slovenian dining feels like in 2025: local ingredients, bold techniques, and a lack of pretense. Its chef trained at Noma and in CPH’s culinary scene and it shows in the inventive small plates.

We also loved trying the many natural wines at both Kletvica and Supernatural naked food & wine. Kletvica is tucked into a quiet side street beneath Castle Hill and feels like a subterranean salon for Ljubljana’s growing natural wine scene. Its shelves are lined with bottles from Slovenia’s most compelling producers - Radikon, Burja, Simcic, Movia, Klinec, alongside smaller, lesser-known winemakers pouring by the glass. It’s a great place to go for discovery. Supernatural on the other hand is different but shares the same spirit. It’s a brighter, looser space where Ljubljana’s creative crowds tend to gather. The wine list leans biodynamic and the food is delicious and unfussy.

Scrumptious lunches, orange wines and desserts were lovingly consumed at Gostilna Vida. They focus on local ingredients and seasonal menus and keep it casual and approachable. Locals sit in the alleyway out front sipping on Hugo spritzes and welcoming you in with their delight. Right next door, the best Colombian coffee was enjoyed every day at Crno Zrno.

Things To Do: Wander the Old Town. Visit the Ljubljana castle. Check out the Roman wall at Mirje. Explore Plecnik’s Ljubljana. Talk a long meander through Tivoli Park. Visit the Museum of Contemporary Art. Hunt down and taste roasted chestnuts (or kostanj in Slovenian) in the fall, which are a huge part of Ljubljana’s rhythm in October.

Interesting tidbits to know: No one person influenced Ljubljana more than Joze Plecnik, the architect who quite literally rebuilt the city after WWI. He studied under Otto Wagner in Vienna and worked briefly in Prague, but returned home with the ambition to give Ljubljana the dignity of a true European capital, even though Slovenia was then part of the new Yugoslavia. His design language was classical but deeply personal: he used columns, bridges and proportions in his own signature ways. Every bench, balustrade and window was chosen with intention. People often call Ljubljana “Plecnik’s city” and they aren’t exaggerating.

In 2016, Ljubljana was named Europe’s green capital. The city center is almost entirely pedestrian, the riverfront is lined with trees and bike lanes, and there’s a protected park (Tivoli!) that stretches straight into forested hills. All within the city limits! Cafes spill onto cobblestones, locals cycle past with market produce, and it just feels like a place that is so conducive to living.

For centuries, chestnut trees grew wild across the hills of central and western Slovenia. Before potatoes arrived from the Americas, chestnuts were a rural staple, a source of nutrition that could be foraged, stored and shared. Roasted, boiled, or milled into flour, they sustained families through long winters and were often called the “bread of the poor.” In Ljubljana, the tradition turned into something more beautiful and communal today: every fall, the whole city smells faintly of roasted chestnuts. Street vendors set up metal drums along the river, paper cones stacked high. The sound of shells cracking, the smell of smoke in the air… it’s the most nostalgic scent of Slovenia’ capital. It’s about tradition now, less about the hunger it used to signify.

Ljubljana means “beloved” and I think that’s just a perfect way to wrap up this blog. This absolutely stunning city is small enough to walk across in half an hour and yet layered with history - roman ruins underneath medieval streets, Baroque churches beside 20th century modernism. It’s quiet, creative, and slightly detached from the rush of Europe around it. Charm at its finest!

A 3 Week Winter Tour of Europe for the Adventurous!

January 21, 2025 Laura Lisowski

“So you’re the other ones, eh?” said an older American gentleman to us at a museum in Copenhagen when he heard our American accents. “Excuse me?” I asked, prodding him to repeat what he said. “I mean, you’re the only other American couple we’ve seen traveling this trip during the winter… you’re winter travelers, like us!” he exclaimed.

It’s true. We have absolutely come to love a winter European adventure, despite the colder temps, despite the higher chance of getting sick/having flight delays… we seem to have a proclivity for riskier travel. But really, we see something in winter adventures that our new friend had too: less crowds, easier restaurant reservations, and an opportunity to see a place in its natural winter element. The temps the last few years of winter travels have really not been all *that bad* either… no different than they would have been back at home. In fact, the weather is likely an improvement for us Seattleites, as the December and January months tend to be dark and quite rainy.

The good news is: flights keep-a-runnin’ all winter long, as do the ever-convenient and scenic trains across Europe. This trip, we wanted to take full opportunity of the 3 weeks of PTO our tech jobs allowed, and so we mapped out a diverse trip which would allow us to see and experience so many things that we love: good design, pastries (cardamom everything, please), excellent unique and funky wines, mountain adventures + Aperol apres’, inspiring architecture, and best of all: interesting, kind, diverse people of all walks of life.

Without further ado, here’s the step by step itinerary from our 3 week trip. At the very end, you’ll find a day by day guide if you want to parse out timing. We felt we had just the right amount of time in each place, but feel free to tweak according to your preferences. We probably could’ve spent another day or two in the Alps, as we are mountain-obsessed folks and will never turn down more mountain time. You may also find you want more than a couple of days in Budapest, and perhaps less days in Copenhagen… we personally felt a much stronger pull towards the Danish design, lifestyle, architecture so spent an extra few days there, but you should choose according to what you fancy and plan accordingly!

OSLO:

Stay: Grand Hotel Oslo, a history-filled, central, stunning hotel with probably the best hotel breakfast we have *ever* had (no we aren’t kidding… it was amazing). The hotel has been around since 1874 and in the intervening time, has played host to international celebrities, world leaders, politicians, Nobel Peace prize laureates. It’s certainly called the “Grand” hotel for good reason. There is a heck of a lot of history here. They also shared with us some really fun and quirky stories about the hotel which I couldn’t resist including here:

1) The prominent Palmen restaurant on site has been used for many different purposes over the years. When the hotel was initially built, the Palmen was a horse stable! Later it became a garden and eventually a backyard, then a winter garden. It wasn’t until 1913 that it finally became an integrated part of the hotel in it’s current restaurant form today.

2) The hotel has hosted thousands of historical events over the years, including for instance when Roald Amundsen, the explorer returned from his North Pole expedition in 1920. He was quoted to have said, “If in south, if in north, if in east, if in west… Grand Hotel is and will always be the best”

3) Many celebrities have stayed at the Grand, from Frank Sinatra to the Rolling Stones to Michael Jackson. You’ll find signatures of many of them in the Palmen restaurant.

4) The viral song/video “What does the fox say” was written by Norwegian comedy duo Ylvis entirely in the Palmen restaurant in the Grand.

There are so many other interesting and quirky facts, but I’ll keep it brief. You’ll just have to visit yourself to learn the rest!

The many options at brunch at Grand Hotel

Eat/Drink:

Eat: Vulkanfisk, Elias mat & sant, Hyde, Le Mayor, Maaemo, Arakataka, LuLu, Restaurant Kontrast, Crow Bar & Bryggeri, Fat City, Territoriet, Roots Restaurant (great mezze!)

Bakeries: Tid Bakeri, Apent Bakeri, Farine, Encore Oslo, Obelia, Noro Bjolsen Bakeri, Daegens bakeri, Bob the Bagel.

Drinks: Dr Kneipp’s Vinbar, Arakataka, Radegast Wine Bar, ROOR, Eff Eff Oyster and Wine Bar, Merkur Bar, Nektar vinbar, SALT (book tables outside by a fire), special mention of Tim Wendelboe for *coffee*

Strolling Oslo streets on a quiet December day

Trying the many types of beers on tap at ROOR

Do: Visit the Christmas markets at Spikersuppa, check out the Opera house, go to the Deichman Public library (and check out the conceptual Future Library on the upper floors!), check out the Museum of the Viking Age (reopening in 2027), book a sauna. Check out the Mathallen food hall (you could seriously spend a full day in here just eating!), walk around the design shops, and absolutely go sample coffee at the famous Tim Wendelboe!

Beautiful lamps in design shops — Design shops in Oslo

Notes: Be mindful of what days you are in Oslo, as much closes during the Christmas to New Years gap, and even into mid January. Many of our long coveted eating and wine-ing spots were not open over the holidays so we will have to return during the summer for those! The city definitely felt quiet during the winter… which for us was just great, but want to set expectations accordingly if you are looking for a buzzy hot spot, you may want to go elsewhere!

COPENHAGEN:

Stay: 25hours Indre By. When I say you need not look further for any other hotels after hearing this name, I mean it. This is one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed at, and every. single. detail. is so well thought out, that you almost feel as though you are staying in an artistic masterpiece more than a hotel itself. They also have an incredible breakfast, the most posh lobby bar (and lobby in general… so many cozy fireplaces/reading spots that you wish/feel like it was your own home), and a very cool little shop including a self-serve candy bar (!!), many design/Copenhagen souvenir takeaways (not the tourist shop kind, but actually well curated), and even some beautiful clothing to purchase.

Our room also had a full view of one of the gorgeous inner city streets, and some nights we confess we just brought takeout and snacks back to our room to watch movies with a front row seat to town from bed … in many ways, it made for an even more superior experience than hitting the town. Win-win!

Entrance into the magical 25hours Indre By

Eat: So many great spots in CPH that it’s hard to know where to start, here are some of our favorites: Pauli, Nr. 30, Sanchez, Vaekst, SAFARI, Ancestrale, Hyttefadet, Hooked (my favorite salmon burger in the world with great natural wines!), Pizzeria C’ho Fame, Abaco (takeout!), Gasoline Grill (for a classic smash burger!)

Bakeries: Gosh, where to start. I swooned over Cardamom pastries for months before coming to CPH and not only was I pleasantly surprised with all of the traditional cardamom buns found, but there were many incredible surprises in pastry form, too, including the pistachio croissants at BUKA and the cardamom *croissant* at Hart Bageri. Yum! Other mentions: Meyers Bageri, H.U.G. Bageri, Rug Bakery, Skipper Bageri, Galst Bageri.

Drink: Vinterhytten (seasonal), BRUS, Anlobet, Fermentoren Beer Bar (check out the Big Lebowski-themed bathroom!), Library Bar, Fire Tyve, Cafe Side Hustle, Pio Vin & Bar, Le Petit Vinbar (in the Torverhallerne), Ubbe’s Vinhanndel/Vinbar, Pompette, not your USUAL wine bar, Laban wine bar, RASCAL, Den Vandrette, Sabotoren, Paradiso, Bar Vivant, Melo, Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade, ABEN Brewery.

Do: Check out all of the design shops (and maybe, if you’re richer than us, buy a special piece to bring home!) including X Y and Z, go spent a few hours at the TorvehallerneKPH (food hall), walk around the University of Copenhagen Library, check out the Designmuseum Danmark.

Lighting inspiration in Designmuseum Danmark

Aside from all of the design/architecture which is an obvious starting place in Copenhagen, the Danish War museum was also a really incredible experience and a great place to stay warm on a cold winters day. We enjoyed learning all about XYZ whilst also seeing a live model of the war in Afghanistan complete with many soldiers stories.

The museum houses permanent exhibitions about war, defense and weapon technology, and presents Danish military history from the 1500s until today, with some very exceptional artifacts dating as far back as the 16th century. There’s a treasure trove of artifacts from samurai swords and ship models upstairs, if you’re into that kind of thing!

Notes: We were in CPH right around New Years and in the days following and while we felt VERY fulfilled by our trip, we did want to mention that some of our wishlist restaurants and shops were still closed through the second week of January. January 1 was a particularly difficult day to find really anything open… but it improved from there and overall we had zero regrets about visiting in the winter. In fact, it was quite nice having it (mostly) to ourselves with more local tourists and less Americans/other.

BUDAPEST:

Stay: We *loved* our stay at the very special luxury hotel, Mystery Hotel Budapest, especially with the spa component. It offered a very relaxing atmosphere and was quite close in walking distance to all of the shops/restaurants (or you can Uber if preferred, as Uber is quite affordable in Budapest). We joked that this felt like the most fun serious hotel we have ever stayed in, with a Mona Lisa behind the bed wearing a VIP necklace, and almost overdone (but not) decor. The breakfast included was also as over the top and extra as they come… I could not have eaten more food and still walked out of there - but that’s what makes it special. It’s a tongue in cheek type of decadence that you might not get at home but certainly will come to expect at Mystery Hotel.

Wellness and sauna at Mystery Hotel Budapest

A VIP Mona Lisa at Mystery Hotel Budapest

Eat: I joked the whole time that Budapest felt more like “Foodapest” as there are endless amounts of wine bars, bakeries and VPR (very posh restaurants!) to explore in the city. We did find a few relatively laid back but top-quality places that we loved, so will include some of those here, with some honorable mentions as well.

Best dinner options were Circo Pizza (love love their pizza + natural wine in a casual atmosphere), PINGRUMBA, Levant Lebanese Bistro, SALT, Babka Budapest (top notch!), BAR LOLA, HACHI Budapest, Zazie Bistro & Bar, Retek Bistro, MAK restaurant, Borkonyha, KonyvBar & Restaurant, TATI Farm to Table. LuLu Budapest was a great, trendy and healthy breakfast option, as was Lion’s Locker.

The Central Market Hall, built in 1897 (!) is also a fun spot to pick up some snacks or some food-related mementos to take home for you or your family/friends. We enjoyed seeing what was in season for fruit, and saw a lot of pastries unique to Eastern Europe.

Bakeries: VAJ Sas, NOR\MA, Laget Pekseg, COFFEE STAND BACKDOOR, Kern Collective Coffee, CORTO, Deryne Kenyer, Pekmuhely, Vekni, aran bakery (check out their porridge place a few doors down as well called Fagel by Artizan).

Drinks: Gravity Brewing, Huncutka Bite & Wine, WINE NOT? Wine bar, Charbon Art Cafe, Tokaj wine bar

A really fantastic meal of pizza and natural wine at Circo Pizza

A cinnamon bun for walking from aran bakery

Plethora of fruit on tap at Central Market hall in Budapest

Do: one of our favorite adventures in Budapest was simply walking and wandering the streets. We also made time to go up to Fisherman’s Bastion which offered incredible, unparalleled views of the entire city from the Pest side (side note, we spent most of our time on the other side, and only later in the trip did we discover we may have even liked the Pest side more… definitely worth going back for future exploring!). There are also so many incredible libraries to visit (a personal favorite thing for us to do, if you had not yet picked up on that!) and we recommend checking out as many of them as you can… our favorites were the Szabo Ervin and the Budapest University Library.

A bit of background on the Szabo Ervin: it was not always the library it is today, as once upon a time it was originally constructed as a palace - and its origins are on display from the moment one enters its wings, evidenced by its gilded interiors, floor to ceiling mirrors and ornate lighting fixtures. The Wenckheim Palace was originally created during the height of the Austro-Hungarian empire and served as a classic example of Hungarian Neo-Baroque architecture. In 1927, the residence was bought by the City Council of Budapest, and after four years of construction, it was reopened as a library in 1931 as Metropolitan Ervin Szabo Library. To date, it holds 1.1 million volumes and opens its doors to visitors for around 4 euros.

If you want to obsess even more over cool Budapest libraries, we recommend starting here.

If short on time, we also recommend you at minimum check out Fishermans Bastion, a stunning architectural marvel in the Budapest Castle District. Built in the late 19th century, it opened in 1902 for the Hungarian Millennium celebrations as a fortress featuring pointed towers and turrets, reminiscent of a fairytale castle. Since 1987, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While in Budapest, we would be remiss if we didn’t also mention the need to set aside a full day to check out one of the baths. While we didn’t get an opportunity to do so on this trip, we’ve heard from many folks that is a worthwhile and necessary part of a first (or 90th) visit to the city.

Notes: Ubers were quite cheap for scooting around town. Definitely allocate some time to check out both the Buda and the Pest side, as they are distinctly different and neither should be neglected!

Interior views of Budapest University library

Gorgeous city views from Fisherman’s Bastion

Inside of Szabo Ervin library in a former palace

Outdoor bookstores are common in Budapest

GRAZ:

Stay: NED Hotel and Hotel Weitzer Graz.

Eat: One of our favorite spots in Graz was an incredible Moroccan restaurant specializing in traditional tagines, called Ya Habibi. We’d definitely recommend starting here! Other honorable mentions include Der Steirer, Gatto im Museum, Cafe Moses, GenieBerei am Markt, Oskar am Markt, KABUFF Bistro, Restaurant Kornati, Mohrenwirt Graz, Pierogi, EL PESCADOR im Rathaus, HUMMEL, Das Mundwerk.

Gorgeous natural wines in Graz at Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar

Bakeries: Coffeeshop Barista’s St Peter, Cafe Greenhouse, Cafe Fotter, Mimi’s, Klescher, Bakery Kern, Martin Auer.

Drinks: Wine bars are aplenty too for sampling local Austrian wines. We loved Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar and the owner was extremely friendly and generous with his time in telling us all about Austrian wines. Also check out Tscheppe ums Eck, Weinbar Auenbrugger, Gerlitz Hof, das MARKUS, WeinKost, Klapotetz Weinbar.

Do: There is a plethora of historic and contemporary architecture in Graz, including the Franciscan Church… but after a lot of time spent in cities this trip, our preference was actually all of the beautiful land/wineries and spaces outside of Graz, particularly as you head towards Styria (next section of our trip!)

Notes: Graz is the second largest city in Austria, which was news to us! We often hear the names Vienna, Innsbruck, Salzburg… Graz stays ever so slightly off the radar to the rest of us despite its size.

AUSTRIAN ALPS:

Stay: Hotel Nesslerhof - the happiness hotel is untouchable when it comes to incredible location, hospitality and overall experience in the Austrian alps. Their only flaw is that not as many people know about them as compared to places in Chamonix, Zermatt… but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Get in while you can… they’re heating up! (They’ve also graciously shared with us a discount code for first time visitors: use the code FIRSTSTAY for 5% off a 4 night stay!)

While we’ve certainly vacationed in the past in the more traditionally popular ski towns, we are actually huge fans of this option as a healthy alternative - perhaps even better, and more exclusive? The emphasis of the hotel is natural everything, and happiness everything, and you feel it from the moment you walk in, from the appealing and organic decor choices, to the enthusiasm and happiness emitted by the staff themselves. Whenever I’ve been to another one of the more popular resort times, I find myself at times overwhelmed by 1) choices of things to do outside of the lodge/skiing itself, 2) pulled in many directions versus doing what I was actually intending to do which is REST and decompress, and 3) food options, and sussing out various restaurants within spitting distance of my accommodations.

Hotel Nesslerhof sort of has all of the things you want - in ONE place. Their all inclusive model includes the most incredible (and ABUNDANT) meals you’ve ever had in your life, to the point where we had to start rationing ourselves on the amazing options (you mean local homemade icecream is included every night after a fresh sushi buffet AND a four course meal?!)… they also have more quiet/relaxation/spa rooms than you can even find time to visit while there. We got massages and visited the stunning spa looking out at the mountains, and even found time to enjoy their workout room as well. AND, best of all, the skiing is right out the front door so you literally walk to the slope from your bedroom. The proximity of everything made for a truly relaxing, indulgent, and happy experience which truly rivals all of those other places you may have heard about. TLDR: Don’t sleep on Nesslerhof and Großarl!

(And another bonus is that it’s in spitting distance of Slovenia, so you can also go ski Kranjska Gora if you’re looking for a bit of variety!)

Views of hotel Nesslerhof after a morning dusting

Eat/Drink: Though the town of Großarl does have a few other options, we ate all of our meals at Nesslerhof, as the meals are all included in the experience and they were 5 star, unbeatable cuisine, so why would you go anywhere else? Something we absolutely *loved* as well is the emphasis on local when it comes to the foods being served. Cheese comes from right down the road, meats as well… we are huge fans of eating hyperlocal and Nesslerhof delivers.

Local meats perfectly prepared at supper

We admit: Nesslerhof was so enjoyable that the only time we left the property was to ski/snowboard, and of course partake in apres up at the Sky Lounge Wolke 7 at the new mountain station of the Kieserlbahn cable car. 360 degree views of the Austrian alps, Aperol spritzes to our hearts delight, and a lot of tomfoolery from fellow skiers? We had a super A+ day!

Riding ski lift back to Hotel Nesslerhof

Views in town as the sun sets in Großarl

Aperol spritz apres ski at Sky Lounge Wolke 7

Do: Ski in and ski out of Nesslerhof, obviously. Be sure to go up to the Sky Lounge Wolke 7. But really, just enjoy staying at Nesslerhof, as it is the main attraction of this visit. We really loved the emphasis on natural happiness which is touted by the entire staff at Nesslerhof. You feel comfortable, and like you are able to enjoy a bit of luxury in an entirely non-pretentious, totally organic type of way. If outdoor sports are your thing, great, go do that and then come back and enjoy a sauna. Or if you’re like me and really just wanted some R&R, eat all of the delicious food served and spend a day getting a massage at the spa, followed by a few hours of reading in one of the many silent rooms.

Notes: We swung by Halstatt, Austria on our drive from Nesslerhof to Austria wine country and definitely recommend you do the same! You’ve probably seen Halstatt all over Instagram, and in some regards THE photo location that everyone posts from was a little underwhelming after seeing the classic photo so many times, but the rest of the town was quite adorable and worth a visit. It was also an easy halfway point between Graz and the alps, a great place to stretch the legs.

SLOVENIA:

Stay: Hotel Nebesa in Kobarid

Eat/Drink: One of my forever favorites is Hisa Franko, though they have become quite popular after Chef’s Table and being donned a Michelin star. We suggest pivoting over to Lake Bled, and eating a beautiful, slow meal at Bled Castle whilst overlooking all of Lake Bled and the surrounding mountains.

Do: Visit Kranjska Gora. Walk around Lake Jasna. Drive down to Triglav National Park. Check out the Vintgar Gorge (note: closed in winter). Spend a day at Lake Bled.

Views of Lake Bled and surrounding peaks from Bled Castle

Lake Bled and Bled Castle from down below

Notes: Slovenia is a very expansive, incredibly beautiful place worthy of a longer visit in itself - and personally we love the summer season there the most. It’s also easily accessible from places in Italy like Venice… so we recommend that you drive from Venice through Friuli in the summer, and do some hiking around Triglav/Slap Kocjak when you can more deeply appreciate the stunning icy blue waters in their prime summer season.

Views of the alps on the drive from Austria to Slovenia

STYRIA:

Stay: SteiRerBLiCke in Sudsteiermark was the most incredible location for overlooking all of the vineyards, not too far from Gamlitz.

Eat/Drink: Restaurant Broadmoar is a new top 3 favorite restaurant of ours, and was found outside of Graz in Styria.

When I say life-changing experience, believe me. Truly life changing. I have been to a few Michelin/Chefs Table restaurants before they blew up, and this may have been an even better experience than some of those… so keep your eyes on this place. It’s certainly one that I want to stay hidden, so I can go back time and time again. We cannot say enough good things about the incredible, fun, knowledgeable staff. They specialize in unique local Austrian wines and hyper local meat/vegetable dishes, perfectly prepared. DO NOT MISS THIS - it was well worth the effort. A couple of dishes may or may not have brought us to tears (I promise it wasn’t the wine).

Do: There are so many gorgeous wineries to visit in Styria; you really cannot go wrong. We were there in the winter season, so things were certainly a bit quieter, but as our friends told us at Restaurant Broadmoar - people here are almost always willing to talk about and share their wines year round… just send them an email or a message on social media, and people tend to be thrilled to open their doors. Some wineries we wanted to visit and were told about often and will certainly see next time we are in town include Weingut und Buschenschenk Albert, Weingut Lackner-Tinnacher, Strohmeier, WeingutMuster, Weingut Werlitsch… and of course, Meinklang.

Notes: We easily drove to Styria from Graz, where we grabbed a Sixt rental car for about $40/day. Highly recommend this option for transportation, as you will want to be mobile! Europeans also care a LOT about making sure rental cars have adequate snow tires - so every car comes with studded tires in the winter. No worries there! Just be prepared to drive manual if you don’t otherwise specify :)

AMSTERDAM:

Stay: Eric Vokel Amsterdam Suites are our favorite place to stay aside from the Hoxton, which has been a favorite for years. We have recently been leaning towards more of apartment style stays, especially for longer trips where we want to feel some semblance of home, and Eric Vokel is exactly that, except better, because they help with breakfast, laundry needs, and have a front desk concierge who is ready and willing to help with any immediate needs. Not to mention they are literally two doors down from our favorite restaurant in the city, Choux. Eric Vokel can do no wrong!

View from our room terrace at Eric Vokel

Breakfast at Eric Vokel Amsterdam suites

Eat/Drink: Our favorite restaurant in town is without a doubt Choux, however there are many other honorable mentions. De Kas is a truly unique experience, as one of the pioneers of farm to table, though be sure to book well in advance. Hinata Ramen is our favorite cozy no-fuss ramen spot. Winkel43 is undeniably the best apple pie you’ll ever have in your life.

Do: Take a stroll in any of the parks. Westerpark and Vondelpark are our favorites. Also, a very niche off the beaten path experience known to locals but less so to tourists is a meal out at Vuurtorneiland, an old war bunker. You take a boat out from central Amsteram to a little island (thus the name Vuurtorneiland) and are treated to an absolutely delightful meal. This books up many months in advance so be sure to get your reservations in early, but it’s a special and worthwhile experience. In recent years, they have even opened up accommodations on the island, too, for those interested in staying!

Go eat bitterballen. Try a Brouwerij beer. Stroll the streets. Go to Foodhallen. We have a few other posts about best brown cafes in Amsterdam and other tips for staying like a local, so go click on those for a deeper dive!

Here’s our day by day itinerary for anyone desiring to follow similar / get a cadence of timing for each city:

Day 1-4 Oslo

(fly from Oslo to CPH)

Day 5-11 Copenhagen

(fly from CPH to Budapest)

Day 12-14 Budapest

(train from Budapest to Graz)

Day 15-17 Graz

(rent car and drive to Austrian alps)

Day 17-19 Austrian Alps

(drive from Austrian Alps to Styria via stops in Slovenia)

Day 19-21 Austria Styrian wine country

(fly to Amsterdam)

Day 21-23 Amsterdam

(fly home)

A Winter Week in the Alps: Zermatt and Chamonix

January 17, 2024 Laura Lisowski

I’ve been heading to the Alps for the better part of the last ten years now for the winter or holiday season, and thought it would be prudent to finally put pen to paper about some of my learnings and very best experiences on these trips. I’d like to think I have started to approach more of a locals grasp on secret spots out there and it just wouldn’t be very nice to gatekeep, so without further ado… some of my favorite spots and best way to spend one wintry week in the Alps.

ZERMATT

Fun fact: up until the early 19th century, Zermatt was a poor, rural village whose inhabitants mainly worked on the land and visitors were few and far between. Zermatt is of course surrounded by some of Switzerland’s highest and most majestic mountains which attracted mountaineers and explorers in the early 1800s. As a result, tourism began to slowly develop from 1820 onwards and in 1838 the first hotel was opened in Zermatt, which still stands today as the Hotel Monte Rosa. It was from here that Zermatt started to more firmly evolve into a popular sports and mountaineering destination to what it is today: the largest and highest summer skiing area in Europe, with 25km of pistes and 8 ski lifts open all summer.

Something else that fascinates me every time I read about it is the history of Zermatt’s most prominent peak, the Matterhorn. Many people realize that Matterhorn is the 6th tallest peak in the Alps, but what is often not realized is that the peak of Matterhorn is actually an African immigrant to Europe, from when the African tectonic plate collided from the south into the European tectonic plate about 30 million years ago. Geologists studying the Matterhorn have determined that the lower 11,000 feet of its slopes are sedimentary rock from the European plate and ocean crust from the forgotten seas, while the top 3,000 feet, the mountain’s peak - is actually harder and older metamorphic rock from the African plate, pushed on top of European sediment and eroded away by glaciers. Fascinating stuff!

Indulging in aperol spritz at Chez Vrony

Perusing stylish retreats at Focus Matterhorn

Just the tip of Matterhorn from Restaurant du Pont

Where to stay: Matterhorn Focus

Yes, I’ve only provided one recommendation. No, I won’t be providing any others. I have stayed at several places in Zermatt over the years and the hospitality of Matterhorn Focus is second to none - by a long shot. I have stayed in many of their rooms over the years, each with its own special twist, but on my most recent trip, was blessed to enjoy my stay (and views) from their Futura and Deluxe rooms.

Why does Matterhorn Focus stand many heads above the rest? It’s honestly hard to pinpoint, but a few things that immediately spring to mind:

1) The staff are incredibly attentive, kind, and consistently go above and beyond to make sure your experience is top notch. I can say this because I have now been back multiple times, and have looked for flaws, and cannot find any. In fact, I remarked to my partner on this trip that Focus makes vacation feel “like it used to be,” where they truly take a load off my shoulders and leave me feeling looked after and taken care of. In a world of bad hotels and poor hospitality experiences where customers are left feeling like they need to do all the work, be more like Focus! A special kudos to Kristina and Patrizia…bravo!

2) The room quality + view quality is unparalleled. I’m tempted to make a little R(oom) vs V(iew) chart with an X and Y axis for you, with a star in the upper right hand corner, but will spare you my cheesy visuals. I’ve often pondered if there’s a better place to stay geographically within the relatively contained Zermatt, and while nearly every part of town affords you some views, I can’t imagine not being as close as humanly possible to the Matterhorn whilst in town. Waking up, making an in room Nespresso, and then being able to crawl back into bed all whilst staring at the alpenglow trickling over the Matterhorn - you just cannot beat that experience.

Exterior views of stunning Focus property

3) Breakfast and bar quality. Look, I love a pain du chocolate (or 7) as much as the next guy whilst on vacation, but I’m also an adult and have come to realize in my late 30’s that solely subsisting on pastries while on vacation just won’t cut it. So what that means is that it’s become increasingly important to me to get a hearty and complete breakfast before heading out on a day’s worth of adventures - whether that be skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, or simply working hard to trek through snow on the way to the afternoon’s aperol spritz(es) at Chez Vrony. I remarked to the folks at Matterhorn Focus that their breakfast is the best I’ve had at the many hotels I’ve visited around the world and I stand by it. They have a muesli/granola bar, a plethora of pastries from Fuchs bakery in town (yes, pastries can be ~a part of~ a balanced breakfast ;)), eggs, bacon, a huge assortment of breads (with my favorite pine and wild honey!), an extensive fruit bar. I can’t actually think of a single breakfast food I would have wanted that they *did not* have. Breakfast of legends, for sure.

4) Perfect balance of adventure + relaxation. Being on the Matterhorn “side of town” means you are the first one to the trails or to the lifts if you so choose, and have adventure at your fingertips from your doorstep. On the other hand, there’s a plethora of opportunities to simply *relax* at Matterhorn Focus - something that I know I can be terribly bad at, unless it is almost forced upon me. Anyone else love to go go go? We had a couple of very cold and overcast days on our latest trip which meant forced relaxation, so I took the time to meander around Matterhorn Focus’ spa and pool facilities. They give you everything you need to relax, including robes, slippers and big plushy towels - and even this active gal finally enjoyed the opportunity to just sit still in a clean, beautiful atmosphere. My favorite amenity is probably the eucalyptus steam room… I could spend hours in there, and now immediately need to figure out how to replicate the experience at my home.

Fruit and muesli selections at Focus breakfast

Lounging poolside with snowy views at Focus

My top Zermatt Experiences:

Visit Air Zermatt. I first learned about the innerworkings of Air Zermatt from the show “The Horn” which can be found on both Amazon and Outside TV, and have spent the better part of the last 7 years obsessed with their operation, as well as the absolute top tier example/standard they set for the rest of the emergency medicine/aviation industries.

It is important to note that while they do sightseeing tours, and in fact, they are some of the most spectacular tours in the world, their primary operations revolve around mountain support and rescues, as well as emergency medicine and rescue training, which includes a flight school, as well as fire services, water survival, critical care, first aid and first responder classes, to name a few.

We walked into Air Zermatt last week for our 40 minute sightsee over the Matterhorn, but truth be told, we were just as interested in “sightsee”-ing their operations in action.

The second person we saw upon entering the facility was Simon, who we had observed perform meticulous and miraculous rescues on The Horn, and who we soon learned had also in the interim 7 years since the show become an active pilot for Air Zermatt as well. If ever there was a ‘celebrity’ I wanted to meet (not a big fan of fawning over a Kardashian!), Simon would be it.

Now people like Simon give us a real reason to recognize someone as a legend and hero! Humble and unassuming - but exuding a quiet confidence … this embodies the ethos of Air Zermatt exceptionally well.

Everything at Air Zermatt gives the impression of a meticulous attention to detail, perfection, and the highest standard of excellence - from the communication from the front of office, to the detailed maintenance of their fleet of helicopters, to the carefully curated selection of the most impressive staff around. I know if I needed to trust someone with my life on a mountain, these guys would be at the top of my list to call.

As a testament to their reputation, when I shared some stories from our flightseeing adventure on my Instagram, I had tens of helicopter pilots send me messages sharing sentiments to the effect of, “I’ve been flying helicopters 30 years around the world, and Air Zermatt’s operation is the gold standard,” and then thanked me for highlighting their organization. They are very clearly highly respected for every angle of their work - and one not need to look far to understand why. An elite operation in every way.

Matterhorn off in the distance on Air Zermatt flight

Eat a meal at Sonnmatten. I’ve been coming back to Sonnmatten for the better part of the last 7 or 8 years and have never had a bad meal. Better news is that if you take my advice and stay at Focus Matterhorn, Sonnmatten is a quick 5 minute walk away, and a perfect cozy escape on a cold wintry night.

The best part about Sonnmatten is the small, family-run style of their restaurant and accommodations. The same faces have greeted me over the years, as well as help me picked a cozy meal to strike my fancy (gnocchi and scallops this time around… yum!) as well as a perfectly paired cocktail or glass of wine. Not to forget my forever favorite unique drink around the world which can be tasted and purchased aplenty: a unique hay schnapps, which feels like it was cultivated from the land and curated just for your palette. You’d think they’d screw up the recipe somewhere over the years, but they just never miss. Chefs kiss!

Hang out at Chez Vrony for an afternoon. There are many mountain huts and apres skis in Zermatt, and plenty of good food, but for me, nothing ever beats Chez Vrony. This is hands down my absolute favorite place in the world to enjoy an aperol spritz, and I don’t see it being unseated from the top spot anytime soon.

You simply take the Sunegga lift up to walk in, or ski in, and are greeted by incredibly well meaning and attentive staff and an extensive and equally impressive wine and food menu. I’m always partial to an incredible burger - and indeed theirs is one of the best - but their carpaccio and gnocchi dishes caught our attention as well and paired quite kindly with our overindulgence of aperol spritz. Every time I sit under a blanket, looking over the railing and out at the Matterhorn on the Chez Vrony patio, I find myself asking to every companion in listening distance, “is this place really real? Can you believe where we are right now?” How can a place be so perfect? That’s not for me to say… it really never gets old.

Unbelievable warming gnocchi at Chez Vrony

Special mentions: Go hang out at Brown Cow pub at Hotel Post downtown and get a burger and a tall Guinness. We also loved The North Wall Bar & Pizzeria for no fuss design-your-own-pizza. Easy, slightly off the beaten path, and 10/10 delicious (and GF friendly!) Best pastries in town are found at either Fuch’s or Petit Royal.

Golden latte and chocolate croissant at Petit Royal

Reading time in cozy upstairs at Petit Royal

Upfront and personal with the Matterhorn from Focus

CHAMONIX

In 1741 two Englishmen, Windham and Pococke, discovered the 'Chamouny' valley and its glaciers. Their expedition was met by a rural population of mountain farmers, and a humble monastery. This community lived off animal husbandry and a sparse harvest of oats and rye. After their initial discovery, Windham and Pococke explored the valley and visited the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). A few short decades later, the first guest house was opened in 1770 and in 1786, two local men made the first ever ascent of Mont Blanc. Not until 1901 was a railway line finally inaugurated into the area, which finally opened the town to winter visitors, and thus the touristic seasons begun.

As we lay in bed and listened to the booming of avalanche dynamite between 5am and 6am every day from our cozy well appointed chalet bedroom at La Sapiniere, we felt like we had officially arrived in Chamonix. The town and it’s people make you feel well looked after, from dynamite to dusk.

One thing I love about Chamonix is how it is clearly a oft-coveted adventure destination, whether in the winter or summer, but somehow it seems to avoid feeling overly touristic and maintain its authenticity. Of course there are a few selfie sticks here and there, especially on the popular tourist activities like the Aguille du Midi, but we are continuously surprised at just how easy it is to get off the beaten path. Take the ski lift up the Flagere, for instance, and within 10 minutes you can be in wide open bowls teaming with snow.

Where to stay: Le Sapiniere or one of the other ones I’ve written about from prior visits in the blog, including Hotel Mont Blanc Chamonix.

Sunset view from the room at La Sapiniere

My top Chamonix Experiences:

Eat at Cool Cats. Imagine the best apres-ski food you can ever envision and then make it 10x better. That’s Cool Cats in a nutshell. Loaded nachos and dogs and high quality food, so that you can indulge but not feel bad afterwards. I’ve been here 10 times and it’s still not enough.

Go up the Aguille du Midi. There are views pretty much everywhere you look in Chamonix, but none quite like the ones you get from the top of the Midi. This cable car holds the world record for the highest vertical ascent, from 1035m to 3842m.

Spend a spa day at QC Terme. There’s plenty of time for adventure and relaxation both in Cham and I’m a big fan of the yin yang. The same way you run 10 miles through the Alps to follow it up with an evening of raclette… you also must reward all the movement time with a bit of relaxation, as well. The spa at QC Terme is a great place to do so. Give yourself four hours or so.

Skiing/Riding the Chamonix Valley. It’s world class for a reason, with more vertical than you know what to do with. Towering peaks expand into a freerider’s paradise of chutes, cliffs and untouched snow. From Chamonix, you can take the lift up Brevent and transfer seemlessly to the Flegere area. There are mid station apres for all to enjoy, and they even take reservations! Up the valley, Les Grandes is the largest area with the biggest terrain, accessible via bus, shuttle and train. For the extreme thrill seekers, book a guide to gain access to the complete Vallee Blanche. The most inclusive pass is the Mont Blanc Unlimited which includes access to all the ski resorts in the valley, plus the Aigulle du Midi, Mer de Glace and more.

Don’t Ski/ Ride? You can still access the mountains multiple ways. You can buy individual roundtrip tickets to: Aigulle Du Midi, visit the Mer De Glace, join your friends for apres at any of the resorts with individual round trip tickets available at any ticket office. If you plan to do a few items listed, check out Pedestrian Pass which even allow for reservations for the Aigulle du Midi and the Mer de Glace! For the adventurous, check out paragliding!

Hang out at Les Caves. A trendy nightclub but without the pretentious vibe. Insider tip: you can ask for the extended wine menu which comes from Le Cap Horn upstairs and drink a beautiful beaujolais whilst hanging in a more laid back venue. Win, win.

Snacks on snacks - never leave home sans baguette

Head for breakfast at Arcus Coffee. By far the best breakfast in Chamonix. They are one of the only places I’ve ever been that has an extensive menu and actually does everything on the menu well. We switched it up day over day from eggs to omelettes to avocado toast to pancakes to acai bowls and none of them disappointed. The staff were also exceptional and the atmosphere welcoming and cozy.

Go for a glass of wine at Le Bistrot des Cristalliers. What better place to drink wine than in a cave? The wine menu and ambiance is impressive.

Some other honorable mentions: We loved the take out Mediterranean food at ELA (even the tahini brownie had me drooling), interesting/unique dishes at MUMMA, forever were picking up pastries and baguette/cheese sandwiches at Nicholas, and find that stopping at the Super U in town to pick up the basics/snacks is always a good idea. Also, if you’re anything like us, you need to find the occasional smoothie or vegetable while traveling to maintain some, ahem, regularity, Arctic Juice & Cafe is a great spot to find all the healthy things your heart desires.

A few additional travel and logistics notes:

We found that flying into Amsterdam from the U.S. was a great landing place to acclimate to the new time zone and enjoy some food and city scenes. Not to mention Schiphol is a hugely accessible airport, so a good bet. We recommend spending a New Years Eve there if you ever get the chance! From there, train travel is king.

We found that buying a 4 day Eurostar pass was the most cost effective and efficient way of moving around for our travel plans. BUT be wary you you need to pay slightly more for reservations for high-speed trains. Also, despite their best efforts, the travel planning apps don’t have every single option. I highly recommend reviewing the regional and local train tables because there can be more options than the app may show.

Also, Geneva is a great starting ground for access to the Alps. We used to visit there often and loved the opportunity to go back. Our favorite hotel there is Hotel Edelweiss. Super clean, spacious, and great views from the room… not to mention easy walking to all kinds of restaurants and bars, very centrally located.

Riding the Eurostar from Chamonix to Zermatt

Train station in Chamonix in a blanket of snow

Amsterdam: Moving Beyond Coffee Shops and The Red Lights

February 20, 2017 TJ Church

Every time I tell someone that I am going to Amsterdam for the weekend I seem to receive a specific knowing look; that look that says they suspect I'm off to meet up with all of my most troublesome friends to pursue activities that are maybe nefarious in some areas of the world and not so much in others.

People think coffee shops, tourists, and maybe even a stop off at the Red Light District… and while those things may or may not be high on your agenda or things that everyone ‘must do’ as part of a trip, Amsterdam has so much more to offer if you just peek behind the curtain.

Amsterdam has been called the Venice of the North for obvious reasons – it’s charm and beauty rivals many of the so-called ‘great cities’ of Europe. Furthermore, it can be accessed and enjoyed with significantly less hassle than its brothers and sisters. (Have you ever tried to get across London at rush hour while trying to make a dinner reservation? Ever risked life and limb on a Vélib’ in Paris to visit a museum? If you have tried either, then you know. If not… don’t.)

Getting around is easy

Amsterdam is blessed by its size and location and benefits from a well thought out and well connected transport system. Schiphol is one of the most well connected and most pleasant airports in the world. Get there and either jump in a taxi or Uber or take one of the regular trains to Amsterdam Centraal Station – then start exploring.

Once in the city, you can get from one end to another by foot or by one of the cycle hire options (of which there are many), so need not worry if you wander off a bit and then have to get back to the other side of town. It turns out that nothing is all that far away.

See the main attractions, then explore beyond

Museums: Van Gogh, Rijksmuseum. Anne Frank. Do them. Be prepared to stand in a line / queue and use resources like Google to see when what times are the least busy. If your focus is on museums (and there are many of them) – also consider the Musuemkaart.

The Canals: Free, and the best way to get to know the city. Pick a canal and walk along it until you see something interesting. Stop, look, experience… and then find another. In the water you will observe hundreds of unique houseboats and entertaining canal traffic (you may even garner a wave from a local cruising by!), and peppered along the edge of the canal you'll observe unparalleled architecture, interesting boutiques, and a myriad of fun and affordable restaurants. Our only warning: watch out for bikes when crossing the street, as you'll soon be run over by one if you aren't careful (there are more bikes per capita than any other country!)

The culinary scene has really developed over the past five years and AMS is now a food destination, however do not let this keep you from grabbing a paper cone of frites & fritessaus or a Febo snack.

Stay like a local: pick the best then trust your host

There are tons of hotels in AMS… for every budget, and every intent (from the aforementioned nefarious to the top end luxe experiences). Our preference? Always pick the most authentic or ‘true’ experience, with a focus on the people.

On a recent adventure we were fortunate to come across The Weavery. From their website: “Gezelligheid is an untranslatable Dutch word you will hear a lot in the Netherlands. Roughly translated it means cozy and pleasant.”

I do not know if we could sum it up any better actually.

Bettina was a wonderful hostess and it was fantastic to meet her, her partner Driss, and their two little charming girls over the course of our stay. These hosts embody everything you could ever hope a B&B host would, and know how to create a level of comfort that makes you want to stay and explore..

The set up at the Weavery is for a boutique B&B experience, but without the full B&B obligation (ie you can be as ‘engaged’ as you would like to be). Breakfast is served in their very well appointed and fun two rooms (and not in a communal setting with Bill from Virginia) and after a quick instruction on logistics you are free to come and go as you like.

Their location is also excellent - the highlights:

· easy access from Centraal by the 16 tram and tucked in a fun canal ringed neighborhood

· 5 minute walk to the Museumplein

· 5 minute walk to the Heineken experience

· a short walk to the fun shops and restaruants of De Pijp

· a short walk to central AMS

· near Prinsengracht and Keizersgraght – two of the canals to wander along

Bettina left us a snack, a map with some of her well-vetted favorites (local restaurants, shopping, and museums) and suggested we meet the next morning to catch up. We set off and followed her recommendations – grabbing a fun meal at Buffet van Odette (which was so good that we went back again later in the weekend), checking out the AMS Light festival and popping into unexpected pizza shops and pubs along the way.

The Weavery itself is an original Amsterdam house – built in the 17th century to provide attractive housing to those in the textile industry. Bettina and Driss have restored it faithfully but also have further created a warm and inviting space with fully preserved traditional details coupled with a few elegant and modern touches. We felt like we were at home.

Our favorite modern touch had its roots in very traditional methods (of the Berbers). The carpets throughout the Weavery are sourced from middle Atlas Morocco and support local village communities there – and help to preserve an art and traditional methods. This region of the world has special personal meaning to both Bettina and Driss, which makes the weaving of their own personal meaning/passion with the local AMS experience all the more meaningful. True to form, the rugs that are sold in their online store are available in not just patterns of their own choosing, but are also available to customize so you can purchase but weave in your own personal touch.

Our final pick: base your authentic Amsterdam experience at the Weavery – ask for their suggestions - and tell Bettina and Driss that we sent you!