Cycling Along the Trail: A Local’s Guide to the Burke-Gilman

May 17, 2025 Laura Lisowski

I’d like to start this off by sharing that this is a love story, not only of our fondness for this trail but of how our Gazelle E-Bikes have been our tool for exploring it.

Residing less than two miles from our home, the Burke-Gilman Trail, has become a mainstay of our lives in Seattle. We’re on it several times a week— mostly riding our Gazelle E-Bikes— riding to our local farmers market for the latest fresh produce, enjoying the ride to our Thursday dinner dates, or just clearing our heads after work in the sunshine along the lake. What started as an option for walking the dog, has became a ritual. Over time, the trail has become a thread through our weeks and a quiet reminder of how much community can grow around something as simple as a path.

Of course, it wasn’t always this way. The Burke-Gilman Trail began its life in the 1880s as a railway, built by Judge Thomas Burke and Daniel Gilman to haul coal and timber from the Cascade foothills into Seattle. After the tracks were abandoned decades later, neighbors and local leaders saw opportunity in the overgrown corridor. In 1971, more than 2,000 people marched the route in protest—pushing for it to be turned into a public trail instead of lost to development.

Due to public persistence, their vision won out. By 1978, the first 12 miles were open to the public. It was the first official rail-to-trail conversion in the country—an idea that’s now become a steady movement across the country, with new trails like this one reshaping how cities connect people to nature, neighborhoods, and each other.

Today, the Burke-Gilman stretches nearly 20 miles through the Seattle metro area, from Ballard to Bothell. Our Gazelle E-bikes allow us to easily weave through the backyards and waterfronts, under bridges and past breweries, linking up some of our city’s most iconic neighborhoods without feeling exhausted afterwards. The whole city feels within our grasp without navigating tortuous traffic.

Quite simply, the trail has become a lifeline for our community—a place where people slow down, move with purpose, and sometimes just sit and watch the world go by.

Over the last year we have logged hundreds of miles on our Gazelle e-bikes, and have broken down the 20+ miles of trail into 3 distinct sections. Within each section, we will focus on food & drinks as well as local finds. This is a living document as we continue to explore and learn more each month.

🌲 North Lake Washington

Lake City · Lake Forest Park · Kenmore · Bothell

There’s something quieter about this stretch of the trail—quieter in the best way. It’s the part we ride when we want less traffic and follow the meandering Sammish River. The light through the evergreens here is soft, filtered, and the trail dips into a rhythm all its own. On a sunny morning, you’ll see retirees out for a stroll with thermoses of tea, teenagers biking to part-time jobs, and neighbors who wave like they’ve seen you a hundred times before—even if they haven’t.

🍽 Eat & Drink Along the Way

Local 104 (Lake Forest Park) is our go-to for wood-fired pizzas and a patio bevvy especially after a longer ride.

De La Soil (Kenmore) is a much appreciated farm to table restaurant that has been in the works for nearly a year. We have attended many pop ups and are so excited to learn they are officially permitted for daily service

The Bine (Bothell) is known for its great beer selection and some genuinely good pub fare.

Alexandria’s (Bothell) is our favorite breakfast spot in the area, and is always packed on the weekends, for good reason!

🛍 Local Finds & Weekend Favorites

Every Sunday, we make a point to stop at the Lake Forest Park Farmers Market. It’s small but mighty: fresh flowers, handmade goods, live music, and a rotating cast of small producers who somehow remember you even if you’ve only been once. It’s got that community energy that makes you feel like you belong.

Taking in our Farmers Market bounty down at Log Boom Park in Kenmore.

🎓 University District & Ravenna

UW Campus · Ravenna · Green Lake · Magnuson Park

This stretch of the trail buzzes with energy in a way the northern section doesn’t—it’s where the city starts to pick up pace. Bikes blur past in a flash of backpacks and earbuds, joggers dodge puddles in the shade of overgrown big leaf maples, and campus life hums in the background like a well-tuned engine full of life. It’s familiar to us in that Seattle way—equal parts collegiate nostalgia, neighborhood calm, and sudden lake views that remind you to pause.

We tend to hit this area when we’re looking for a balance: a good ride, a great meal, and a few people-watching moments in between.

🍽 Eat & Drink Along the Way

Pancita (Ravenna) tucked near the edge of campus—it’s known for its clean, modern Mexican dishes with amazing wines predominantly from Mexico producers.

Burke-Gilman Brewery (Ravenna) has the perfect combination of small-batch brews and bike racks that are always full.

El Camion (Ravenna) is our favorite taco truck in the entire city, and there is one steps away from Burke-Gilman Brewery!!

Ravenna Brewery (Ravenna) is just a short detour off the path and totally worth it—cozy, neighborhoody, and one of those places where you might accidentally spend your whole afternoon.

Seven Coffee Roasters Market & Cafe (Ravenna) The ultimate third place that we dream of; amazing coffee and bites to eat, plus a top notch wine selection that you can enjoy on the patio or bring home.

Layers (Green Lake) a pricey but delicious sandwich shop that will make you slow down to savor each bite. Highly recommend a to go sandwich with a slow walk around Green Lake

Venezuelan Arepas (UW District) we recently discovered this place after a few beers from Ravenna Brewery and we will be back! Courteous service, big servings and hot sauces that delight

🧭 Places to Explore

This is where you want to make time for detours. Magnuson Park is an easy peel-off from the trail and has everything from waterfront picnic spots to an off-leash dog area and even a kite hill if the wind’s right. Green Lake is a classic for a reason—the 2.8-mile loop is an easy bonus ride if you want to stretch your legs and people-watch in equal measure.

If you’re feeling especially curious, ride through the winding paths of Ravenna Park—a steep little gorge that feels like something out of a fairy tale. It’s a green tunnel that hums with birds and shade, and you’d never guess it’s tucked right in the middle of the city.

🏙 North Lake

Fremont · Ballard

This is where the Burke-Gilman turns from neighborhood thread into urban lifeline. It hums a little louder here. The buildings get taller, the beer gardens get rowdier, and suddenly you’re weaving between breweries, houseboats, and art installations like the Fremont Troll, who sits quietly under Aurora Avenue like some half-forgotten urban legend.

We usually ride this stretch when we’re feeling social. It’s where you end up bumping into friends, running into a street fair, or deciding you absolutely need oysters and wine at 3PM “just because.” It’s quintessentially Seattle—industrial and artistic, tidy and wild, all at once.

🍽 Eat & Drink Along the Way

The Whale Wins is a longtime favorite—its wood-fired dishes and airy interiors make for the kind of dinner you remember a month later.

Three Sacks Full is a newer addition that serves up an ever changing menu with ingredients sourced locally. It’s smaller, and reservations are encouraged

Fremont Brewing is our go to brewery in the area. Their urban beer garden is always full of dogs, locals, and the occasional startup team meeting over IPAs. Grab a bench, soak in the buzz, and stay longer than you meant to.

Hamdi (Ballard) Holy smokes (and fire, lots of fire), a husband and wife duo put on a culinary show blowing away your taste buds with seared meats and vegetables with Turkish influence. Reservation recommended!

Imperfetta (Ballard) A great communal bottle shop with fun tastings always on deck. A cute eclectic shop entails pastas, oils and other goodies from around the world.

Petite Bottle Shop (Ballard) Arguably, the best wine shop in the area. They bring in world class producers weekly, and it’s always worth a glass while shopping at the Ballard Farmers Market

🧭 Places to Explore

Start with Gas Works Park, where the trail runs right along the edge. It’s one of Seattle’s most iconic green spaces—equal parts post-industrial sculpture garden and hilltop lounging zone. On a clear day, the views of Lake Union and downtown are unbeatable.

From there, detour into Fremont to say hi to the Troll, grab a snack, or browse the quirky shops and boutiques along 34th Street. And if you keep heading west into Ballard, you’ll hit the Ballard Locks—a fun and oddly soothing place to watch boats pass through, salmon climb ladders, and tourists snap selfies with confused sea lions in the background.

Also worth a visit: the Nordic Museum in Ballard, which blends sleek design with rich cultural storytelling. It’s a beautiful stop if you’re in the mood to pair your ride with a little history and heritage.

Walla Walla Wine Country: A Natural Wine and Food Adventure with stopovers

April 16, 2025 Laura Lisowski

Background of Walla Walla:

The name so nice, you say it twice! Walla Walla is a unique city that has undergone many evolutions. Rapid growth began in the late 1850s as an outpost for local mining and gold operations, making it a key stop on the Mullan Road. At one point, it was the largest settlement in the Washington Territory and was home to the first newspaper and the first bank—Baker & Boyer, which is still in operation today! After losing a key railroad stop, the town shifted toward agriculture, attracting Italian settlers who planted the area’s first grapes.

Nearly 100 years later, Walla Walla recognized the potential of these early plantings and began transitioning its agricultural efforts from predominantly grain production to a wine-producing region capable of challenging Napa Valley. This unique environment offers 17 hours of sunlight, plentiful snowmelt for water, and a diurnal temperature shift ideal for grape production. Now, 40 years into this wine evolution, tourists have caught on, and the city is beginning to explore a new identity in hop production as well.

Walla Walla is ever-changing, which makes it a one-of-a-kind destination ripe for repeat visits—and we cannot wait to return and see what else it has to offer!

Stay: Finch Walla Walla. Seriously, look no further. The FINCH started as the Howard Johnson Hotel in 1969 and was one of Walla Walla’s first hotels. After it was acquired in 2017, it was rebranded and renovated with contemporary amenities like a courtyard, covered patio, and communal workspaces. As midcentury modern lovers, we absolutely loved the new but retro vibes, and thought all of the personal touches were impeccable. Also as a true testament to their top notch hospitality, I had mentioned we were celebrating a birthday ahead of our arrival to the FINCH, and upon our arrival, we found local candies and treats as well as a balloon bouquet/banner waiting for us in our room. A very kind, and unexpected surprise for my partner for his birthday - and the treats were steadily enjoyed the entire trip, especially after wine tastings!

As a bonus, the FINCH also has an AK’s Mercado food truck right out front for easy post-adventure or post-wine tasting meals. We had fries, gyros, and other tasty treats and all of them were just what we needed.

Eat: AK’s Mercado, Kerry’s Trinidian Cuisine, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, Maple Counter Cafe, Bacon and Eggs.

Picnic in the park with takeaway breakfast

Drink: It’s all about natural wines in Walla Walla for us. Our favorites are Devium Wine (hi Keith and Shelley!), Foundry Vineyards (more specifically, Pet Project), Grosgrain, and be sure to pop by the world class bottle shop The Thief.

Devium requires a reservation for a tasting which we highly recommend. For the curious it is not only an exploration of their amazing wines, but a lesson in the art of winemaking. The tasting felt like a world class seminar on wine production and sustainable practices. They not only care about thoughtful and intentional production of their wine, but they work with only the best producers and terroir in the area.

As many wine lovers have likely observed, wine is currently moving away from conventional reds that have dominated the scene for so many years. White grape varieties are gaining massive popularity as the consumer realizes wine can offer so much more than a bold headache the morning. Balanced, aesthetically beautiful and refreshing, the next age of wine belongs to these grapes often forgot about or misunderstood. Similar with sustainable methods of production, they are bringing life back to this industry that has been snuffed out by a bad mixture of chemicals and ego curated by “consistency”. As Shelley said, “Let the fruit speak”.

As an aside, we recently read the book Amber Revolution: How the World Learned to Love Orange Wine and highly recommend for gaining a better understanding of the forces which have shaped the new revolution of minimal intervention, biodynamic, skin contact wines.

The tasting room at the lovely Devium WInes

Explore: The absolute highlight of our trip was Palouse Falls, about an easy hour drive outside of Walla Walla. We had seen this place on a few blogs ahead of our trip, and knew it was a spectacular waterfall, but what we hadn’t anticipated is how incredible the entire area is. It feels like you are stepping momentarily into Iceland once you cross the bridge headed towards the state park.

We also had a great afternoon checking out the south trails in Harris Park in Umatilla county, about 40 minutes south into Oregon from Walla Walla. You get to cruise through Milton-Freewater on the way, and if you’re into good chocolate, we highly recommend a stop into Petit Noirs as well for a post-hike treat. The salted caramel truffle and potato chip toffee were to die for.

We would also be remiss if we didn’t talk about some of the places we hit to/fro Seattle on the drive out to Walla Walla. Yakima, Ellensberg and the Richmond area have some really awesome little stops - cafes, hiking, and waterfront dining. A personal favorite hike was the Twin Sisters Rock/Wallula hike where we followed dozens of trails through sandy deserty sage and wildflower-filled scenes, all whilst looking out at the Columbia River. We stopped for oysters at Budd’s Broiler in Richland before carrying on our way west. Highly recommend.

Budd’s Broiler for oysters in Richland, WA

Highway to Twin Sisters, looking at Columbia River

We also found the Cle Elum/Roslyn/Ronald area to be a phenomenal halfway stopover point between Eastern WA and our home back in the city, complete with fantastic bakeries AND our new favorite AirBnB to ever exist (no, really), Timber Stilts in Ronald, WA. We have a lot more exploring of hikes to do in the area when the weather is more appropriate, so will continue to update this section… but for now:

CLE ELUM/ROSLYN/RONALD:

Stay: Timber Stilts is without a doubt the most well-located, stunning property you could stay at in the area and has virtually everything you could possibly need. I tried to think up something else that they were missing and I couldn’t come up with anything. The house is stocked with a full kitchen, all cooking accessories, a full grill, a hot tub, heck… even a smores kit to make use of the original fireplace in the great room. This AirBnB is also within shooting distance of all 3 towns, so is a great midpoint with accessibility to everything, whilst still allowing you to feel cozied up in a cabin just off the beaten path.

Eat: We honestly enjoyed the full kitchen at Timber Stilts so much that we did a lot of eating in/cooking “at home” and enjoying the space itself. But there’s also a few great spots in the surrounding towns which are worthy of visiting… not to mention Roslyn itself just a 5 minute drive down the road has a lovely little downtown with some cute shops for perusing when you can pull yourself away from your gorgeous abode that is Timber Stilts.

Other great options include: Stella’s, Roslyn Cafe, Basecamp Books & Bites, Cle Elum Bakery, Little Pangea Kitchen, Pioneer Coffee Roasting Co, Wild Flora Bakery, Liberty Cafe, 509 Bake House, Owen’s Meats and be sure to stop by the Gemini Fish Market which has an incredible selection of very fresh fish and takeaways for a picnic.

Drink: Mule & Elk Brewing, Coal Chute Cafe and Pub, Dru Bru, Taneum Creek Brewing, Upsidedown Wine

Explore: Walk around downtown Roslyn. Hike down by Salmon la Sac trailhead and out onto Cle Elum Lake. Red Top Lookout. Navaho Pass Trailhead.

Nettle Foraging and Cooking Class with Forage Seattle

April 14, 2025 Laura Lisowski

As someone who has been increasingly interested in self-sustenance and using our land for growing/foraging our own food, I was more than thrilled to learn about Forage Seattle and to find out that Angela (the owner!) was running a plethora of local nettles / mushrooms / oyster and other various cooking classes around the Pacific Northwest (follow her on Instagram here to get regular updates, as well!)

I reached out to Angela a few weeks before the Spring events season kicked in, and was excited to sign up for both the Nettles foraging class (during peak Nettles season, to boot!) and the spring Mushroom Foraging 101 class.

I woke up early on a sunny Sunday morning and headed south to Puyallup for our nettles class, coffee in hand. When I pulled up to the park, I was greeted by Angela with a hot cup of nettle tea with all the fixings, and a fellow sprightly crew ready to go out learning and gathering.

After enjoying some tea and nettle pesto on toast, we were instructed to cover any of our “sexy ankles!” (because nettles!!), grab our gloves (because nettles!!) and grab a paper shopping bag to head out into the forest to start collecting our bounty.

Angela had very clearly scouted her way around the area as there were forage-worthy goodies in abundance. We spotted tens of thousands of nettles within a 5 minute walk, salmonberry bushes, hostas, watercress, and even a few surprise morel sightings early in the season! And of course chickweed…which seems to want to stick to… well, everything!

We were left to explore and forage on our own for 45 minutes or so during which time we each picked enough nettle to last the year (seriously, there was THAT much nettle). As it was late March, it was also perfect timing seasonally for us to be foraging as for those of you that don’t know, you want to harvest nettles when they are still a couple feet off the ground for maximum nutrients and supreme flavor. Once they surpass that point, they start to flower and get bitter. At that stage, you’ll only want to harvest their seeds for tea. Nettles have a very small window for optimum picking, so best to get out in those beautiful spring months!

Once we finished our individual foraging quests, Angela walked us through how to prepare and store our nettles: rinse them in a bowl of room temperature water to get all the bugs off, then drop them one bunch at a time into boiling water, where they’ll sit for just a couple of minutes (this process removes those unfriendly spiky nettles), and then blanche them for a couple of minutes in a bowl of ice water (helps preserve the color). Thereafter, you can squeeze the water out of the nettles and store them in ice cube trays, tupperware, or use immediately as you desire - in eggs, salads, soups or baked goods… the possibilities are endless!

As we sat around chatting, we enjoyed a beautiful nettle shrimp risotto prepared on site by Angela, finished with nettle madeleine cookies (yum!) and then were spoiled with a nettle pesto gift jar to take home, as well as a handful of other thematic goodies (can you say mushroom SOCKS?!)

A brilliant day that I cannot recommend highly enough. But of course, that wasn’t enough for me.

Ever the overachiever with no chill, I immediately came home from our day of foraging and put my harvest to good use: prepping my nettles for the freezer for future meals and smoothies this spring, nettle pesto pasta with fresh watercress, and used my salmonberry flowers to beautifully adorn a fresh herby berry filled salad for Sunday supper.

I would be remiss to not talk about all of the beautiful properties of nettles, the main star of the show.

Nettles have a variety of traditional and modern herbal applications, ranging from culinary uses to medicinal remedies. They are known for their anti-inflammatory, diuretic, and astringent properties, and are used to treat various conditions like arthritis, allergies, and urinary issues.

In addition, nettles are a good source of several vitamins, including A, C, and K, as well as some B vitamins. They also contain various minerals like calcium, iron, magnesium, and potassium. A nutritional powerhouse… in our backyard! Can’t wait for the next adventure!

A 3 Week Winter Tour of Europe for the Adventurous!

January 21, 2025 Laura Lisowski

“So you’re the other ones, eh?” said an older American gentleman to us at a museum in Copenhagen when he heard our American accents. “Excuse me?” I asked, prodding him to repeat what he said. “I mean, you’re the only other American couple we’ve seen traveling this trip during the winter… you’re winter travelers, like us!” he exclaimed.

It’s true. We have absolutely come to love a winter European adventure, despite the colder temps, despite the higher chance of getting sick/having flight delays… we seem to have a proclivity for riskier travel. But really, we see something in winter adventures that our new friend had too: less crowds, easier restaurant reservations, and an opportunity to see a place in its natural winter element. The temps the last few years of winter travels have really not been all *that bad* either… no different than they would have been back at home. In fact, the weather is likely an improvement for us Seattleites, as the December and January months tend to be dark and quite rainy.

The good news is: flights keep-a-runnin’ all winter long, as do the ever-convenient and scenic trains across Europe. This trip, we wanted to take full opportunity of the 3 weeks of PTO our tech jobs allowed, and so we mapped out a diverse trip which would allow us to see and experience so many things that we love: good design, pastries (cardamom everything, please), excellent unique and funky wines, mountain adventures + Aperol apres’, inspiring architecture, and best of all: interesting, kind, diverse people of all walks of life.

Without further ado, here’s the step by step itinerary from our 3 week trip. At the very end, you’ll find a day by day guide if you want to parse out timing. We felt we had just the right amount of time in each place, but feel free to tweak according to your preferences. We probably could’ve spent another day or two in the Alps, as we are mountain-obsessed folks and will never turn down more mountain time. You may also find you want more than a couple of days in Budapest, and perhaps less days in Copenhagen… we personally felt a much stronger pull towards the Danish design, lifestyle, architecture so spent an extra few days there, but you should choose according to what you fancy and plan accordingly!

OSLO:

Stay: Grand Hotel Oslo, a history-filled, central, stunning hotel with probably the best hotel breakfast we have *ever* had (no we aren’t kidding… it was amazing). The hotel has been around since 1874 and in the intervening time, has played host to international celebrities, world leaders, politicians, Nobel Peace prize laureates. It’s certainly called the “Grand” hotel for good reason. There is a heck of a lot of history here. They also shared with us some really fun and quirky stories about the hotel which I couldn’t resist including here:

1) The prominent Palmen restaurant on site has been used for many different purposes over the years. When the hotel was initially built, the Palmen was a horse stable! Later it became a garden and eventually a backyard, then a winter garden. It wasn’t until 1913 that it finally became an integrated part of the hotel in it’s current restaurant form today.

2) The hotel has hosted thousands of historical events over the years, including for instance when Roald Amundsen, the explorer returned from his North Pole expedition in 1920. He was quoted to have said, “If in south, if in north, if in east, if in west… Grand Hotel is and will always be the best”

3) Many celebrities have stayed at the Grand, from Frank Sinatra to the Rolling Stones to Michael Jackson. You’ll find signatures of many of them in the Palmen restaurant.

4) The viral song/video “What does the fox say” was written by Norwegian comedy duo Ylvis entirely in the Palmen restaurant in the Grand.

There are so many other interesting and quirky facts, but I’ll keep it brief. You’ll just have to visit yourself to learn the rest!

The many options at brunch at Grand Hotel

Eat/Drink:

Eat: Vulkanfisk, Elias mat & sant, Hyde, Le Mayor, Maaemo, Arakataka, LuLu, Restaurant Kontrast, Crow Bar & Bryggeri, Fat City, Territoriet, Roots Restaurant (great mezze!)

Bakeries: Tid Bakeri, Apent Bakeri, Farine, Encore Oslo, Obelia, Noro Bjolsen Bakeri, Daegens bakeri, Bob the Bagel.

Drinks: Dr Kneipp’s Vinbar, Arakataka, Radegast Wine Bar, ROOR, Eff Eff Oyster and Wine Bar, Merkur Bar, Nektar vinbar, SALT (book tables outside by a fire), special mention of Tim Wendelboe for *coffee*

Strolling Oslo streets on a quiet December day

Trying the many types of beers on tap at ROOR

Do: Visit the Christmas markets at Spikersuppa, check out the Opera house, go to the Deichman Public library (and check out the conceptual Future Library on the upper floors!), check out the Museum of the Viking Age (reopening in 2027), book a sauna. Check out the Mathallen food hall (you could seriously spend a full day in here just eating!), walk around the design shops, and absolutely go sample coffee at the famous Tim Wendelboe!

Beautiful lamps in design shops — Design shops in Oslo

Notes: Be mindful of what days you are in Oslo, as much closes during the Christmas to New Years gap, and even into mid January. Many of our long coveted eating and wine-ing spots were not open over the holidays so we will have to return during the summer for those! The city definitely felt quiet during the winter… which for us was just great, but want to set expectations accordingly if you are looking for a buzzy hot spot, you may want to go elsewhere!

COPENHAGEN:

Stay: 25hours Indre By. When I say you need not look further for any other hotels after hearing this name, I mean it. This is one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed at, and every. single. detail. is so well thought out, that you almost feel as though you are staying in an artistic masterpiece more than a hotel itself. They also have an incredible breakfast, the most posh lobby bar (and lobby in general… so many cozy fireplaces/reading spots that you wish/feel like it was your own home), and a very cool little shop including a self-serve candy bar (!!), many design/Copenhagen souvenir takeaways (not the tourist shop kind, but actually well curated), and even some beautiful clothing to purchase.

Our room also had a full view of one of the gorgeous inner city streets, and some nights we confess we just brought takeout and snacks back to our room to watch movies with a front row seat to town from bed … in many ways, it made for an even more superior experience than hitting the town. Win-win!

Entrance into the magical 25hours Indre By

Eat: So many great spots in CPH that it’s hard to know where to start, here are some of our favorites: Pauli, Nr. 30, Sanchez, Vaekst, SAFARI, Ancestrale, Hyttefadet, Hooked (my favorite salmon burger in the world with great natural wines!), Pizzeria C’ho Fame, Abaco (takeout!), Gasoline Grill (for a classic smash burger!)

Bakeries: Gosh, where to start. I swooned over Cardamom pastries for months before coming to CPH and not only was I pleasantly surprised with all of the traditional cardamom buns found, but there were many incredible surprises in pastry form, too, including the pistachio croissants at BUKA and the cardamom *croissant* at Hart Bageri. Yum! Other mentions: Meyers Bageri, H.U.G. Bageri, Rug Bakery, Skipper Bageri, Galst Bageri.

Drink: Vinterhytten (seasonal), BRUS, Anlobet, Fermentoren Beer Bar (check out the Big Lebowski-themed bathroom!), Library Bar, Fire Tyve, Cafe Side Hustle, Pio Vin & Bar, Le Petit Vinbar (in the Torverhallerne), Ubbe’s Vinhanndel/Vinbar, Pompette, not your USUAL wine bar, Laban wine bar, RASCAL, Den Vandrette, Sabotoren, Paradiso, Bar Vivant, Melo, Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade, ABEN Brewery.

Do: Check out all of the design shops (and maybe, if you’re richer than us, buy a special piece to bring home!) including X Y and Z, go spent a few hours at the TorvehallerneKPH (food hall), walk around the University of Copenhagen Library, check out the Designmuseum Danmark.

Lighting inspiration in Designmuseum Danmark

Aside from all of the design/architecture which is an obvious starting place in Copenhagen, the Danish War museum was also a really incredible experience and a great place to stay warm on a cold winters day. We enjoyed learning all about XYZ whilst also seeing a live model of the war in Afghanistan complete with many soldiers stories.

The museum houses permanent exhibitions about war, defense and weapon technology, and presents Danish military history from the 1500s until today, with some very exceptional artifacts dating as far back as the 16th century. There’s a treasure trove of artifacts from samurai swords and ship models upstairs, if you’re into that kind of thing!

Notes: We were in CPH right around New Years and in the days following and while we felt VERY fulfilled by our trip, we did want to mention that some of our wishlist restaurants and shops were still closed through the second week of January. January 1 was a particularly difficult day to find really anything open… but it improved from there and overall we had zero regrets about visiting in the winter. In fact, it was quite nice having it (mostly) to ourselves with more local tourists and less Americans/other.

BUDAPEST:

Stay: We *loved* our stay at the very special luxury hotel, Mystery Hotel Budapest, especially with the spa component. It offered a very relaxing atmosphere and was quite close in walking distance to all of the shops/restaurants (or you can Uber if preferred, as Uber is quite affordable in Budapest). We joked that this felt like the most fun serious hotel we have ever stayed in, with a Mona Lisa behind the bed wearing a VIP necklace, and almost overdone (but not) decor. The breakfast included was also as over the top and extra as they come… I could not have eaten more food and still walked out of there - but that’s what makes it special. It’s a tongue in cheek type of decadence that you might not get at home but certainly will come to expect at Mystery Hotel.

Wellness and sauna at Mystery Hotel Budapest

A VIP Mona Lisa at Mystery Hotel Budapest

Eat: I joked the whole time that Budapest felt more like “Foodapest” as there are endless amounts of wine bars, bakeries and VPR (very posh restaurants!) to explore in the city. We did find a few relatively laid back but top-quality places that we loved, so will include some of those here, with some honorable mentions as well.

Best dinner options were Circo Pizza (love love their pizza + natural wine in a casual atmosphere), PINGRUMBA, Levant Lebanese Bistro, SALT, Babka Budapest (top notch!), BAR LOLA, HACHI Budapest, Zazie Bistro & Bar, Retek Bistro, MAK restaurant, Borkonyha, KonyvBar & Restaurant, TATI Farm to Table. LuLu Budapest was a great, trendy and healthy breakfast option, as was Lion’s Locker.

The Central Market Hall, built in 1897 (!) is also a fun spot to pick up some snacks or some food-related mementos to take home for you or your family/friends. We enjoyed seeing what was in season for fruit, and saw a lot of pastries unique to Eastern Europe.

Bakeries: VAJ Sas, NOR\MA, Laget Pekseg, COFFEE STAND BACKDOOR, Kern Collective Coffee, CORTO, Deryne Kenyer, Pekmuhely, Vekni, aran bakery (check out their porridge place a few doors down as well called Fagel by Artizan).

Drinks: Gravity Brewing, Huncutka Bite & Wine, WINE NOT? Wine bar, Charbon Art Cafe, Tokaj wine bar

A really fantastic meal of pizza and natural wine at Circo Pizza

A cinnamon bun for walking from aran bakery

Plethora of fruit on tap at Central Market hall in Budapest

Do: one of our favorite adventures in Budapest was simply walking and wandering the streets. We also made time to go up to Fisherman’s Bastion which offered incredible, unparalleled views of the entire city from the Pest side (side note, we spent most of our time on the other side, and only later in the trip did we discover we may have even liked the Pest side more… definitely worth going back for future exploring!). There are also so many incredible libraries to visit (a personal favorite thing for us to do, if you had not yet picked up on that!) and we recommend checking out as many of them as you can… our favorites were the Szabo Ervin and the Budapest University Library.

A bit of background on the Szabo Ervin: it was not always the library it is today, as once upon a time it was originally constructed as a palace - and its origins are on display from the moment one enters its wings, evidenced by its gilded interiors, floor to ceiling mirrors and ornate lighting fixtures. The Wenckheim Palace was originally created during the height of the Austro-Hungarian empire and served as a classic example of Hungarian Neo-Baroque architecture. In 1927, the residence was bought by the City Council of Budapest, and after four years of construction, it was reopened as a library in 1931 as Metropolitan Ervin Szabo Library. To date, it holds 1.1 million volumes and opens its doors to visitors for around 4 euros.

If you want to obsess even more over cool Budapest libraries, we recommend starting here.

If short on time, we also recommend you at minimum check out Fishermans Bastion, a stunning architectural marvel in the Budapest Castle District. Built in the late 19th century, it opened in 1902 for the Hungarian Millennium celebrations as a fortress featuring pointed towers and turrets, reminiscent of a fairytale castle. Since 1987, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While in Budapest, we would be remiss if we didn’t also mention the need to set aside a full day to check out one of the baths. While we didn’t get an opportunity to do so on this trip, we’ve heard from many folks that is a worthwhile and necessary part of a first (or 90th) visit to the city.

Notes: Ubers were quite cheap for scooting around town. Definitely allocate some time to check out both the Buda and the Pest side, as they are distinctly different and neither should be neglected!

Interior views of Budapest University library

Gorgeous city views from Fisherman’s Bastion

Inside of Szabo Ervin library in a former palace

Outdoor bookstores are common in Budapest

GRAZ:

Stay: NED Hotel and Hotel Weitzer Graz.

Eat: One of our favorite spots in Graz was an incredible Moroccan restaurant specializing in traditional tagines, called Ya Habibi. We’d definitely recommend starting here! Other honorable mentions include Der Steirer, Gatto im Museum, Cafe Moses, GenieBerei am Markt, Oskar am Markt, KABUFF Bistro, Restaurant Kornati, Mohrenwirt Graz, Pierogi, EL PESCADOR im Rathaus, HUMMEL, Das Mundwerk.

Gorgeous natural wines in Graz at Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar

Bakeries: Coffeeshop Barista’s St Peter, Cafe Greenhouse, Cafe Fotter, Mimi’s, Klescher, Bakery Kern, Martin Auer.

Drinks: Wine bars are aplenty too for sampling local Austrian wines. We loved Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar and the owner was extremely friendly and generous with his time in telling us all about Austrian wines. Also check out Tscheppe ums Eck, Weinbar Auenbrugger, Gerlitz Hof, das MARKUS, WeinKost, Klapotetz Weinbar.

Do: There is a plethora of historic and contemporary architecture in Graz, including the Franciscan Church… but after a lot of time spent in cities this trip, our preference was actually all of the beautiful land/wineries and spaces outside of Graz, particularly as you head towards Styria (next section of our trip!)

Notes: Graz is the second largest city in Austria, which was news to us! We often hear the names Vienna, Innsbruck, Salzburg… Graz stays ever so slightly off the radar to the rest of us despite its size.

AUSTRIAN ALPS:

Stay: Hotel Nesslerhof - the happiness hotel is untouchable when it comes to incredible location, hospitality and overall experience in the Austrian alps. Their only flaw is that not as many people know about them as compared to places in Chamonix, Zermatt… but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Get in while you can… they’re heating up! (They’ve also graciously shared with us a discount code for first time visitors: use the code FIRSTSTAY for 5% off a 4 night stay!)

While we’ve certainly vacationed in the past in the more traditionally popular ski towns, we are actually huge fans of this option as a healthy alternative - perhaps even better, and more exclusive? The emphasis of the hotel is natural everything, and happiness everything, and you feel it from the moment you walk in, from the appealing and organic decor choices, to the enthusiasm and happiness emitted by the staff themselves. Whenever I’ve been to another one of the more popular resort times, I find myself at times overwhelmed by 1) choices of things to do outside of the lodge/skiing itself, 2) pulled in many directions versus doing what I was actually intending to do which is REST and decompress, and 3) food options, and sussing out various restaurants within spitting distance of my accommodations.

Hotel Nesslerhof sort of has all of the things you want - in ONE place. Their all inclusive model includes the most incredible (and ABUNDANT) meals you’ve ever had in your life, to the point where we had to start rationing ourselves on the amazing options (you mean local homemade icecream is included every night after a fresh sushi buffet AND a four course meal?!)… they also have more quiet/relaxation/spa rooms than you can even find time to visit while there. We got massages and visited the stunning spa looking out at the mountains, and even found time to enjoy their workout room as well. AND, best of all, the skiing is right out the front door so you literally walk to the slope from your bedroom. The proximity of everything made for a truly relaxing, indulgent, and happy experience which truly rivals all of those other places you may have heard about. TLDR: Don’t sleep on Nesslerhof and Großarl!

(And another bonus is that it’s in spitting distance of Slovenia, so you can also go ski Kranjska Gora if you’re looking for a bit of variety!)

Views of hotel Nesslerhof after a morning dusting

Eat/Drink: Though the town of Großarl does have a few other options, we ate all of our meals at Nesslerhof, as the meals are all included in the experience and they were 5 star, unbeatable cuisine, so why would you go anywhere else? Something we absolutely *loved* as well is the emphasis on local when it comes to the foods being served. Cheese comes from right down the road, meats as well… we are huge fans of eating hyperlocal and Nesslerhof delivers.

Local meats perfectly prepared at supper

We admit: Nesslerhof was so enjoyable that the only time we left the property was to ski/snowboard, and of course partake in apres up at the Sky Lounge Wolke 7 at the new mountain station of the Kieserlbahn cable car. 360 degree views of the Austrian alps, Aperol spritzes to our hearts delight, and a lot of tomfoolery from fellow skiers? We had a super A+ day!

Riding ski lift back to Hotel Nesslerhof

Views in town as the sun sets in Großarl

Aperol spritz apres ski at Sky Lounge Wolke 7

Do: Ski in and ski out of Nesslerhof, obviously. Be sure to go up to the Sky Lounge Wolke 7. But really, just enjoy staying at Nesslerhof, as it is the main attraction of this visit. We really loved the emphasis on natural happiness which is touted by the entire staff at Nesslerhof. You feel comfortable, and like you are able to enjoy a bit of luxury in an entirely non-pretentious, totally organic type of way. If outdoor sports are your thing, great, go do that and then come back and enjoy a sauna. Or if you’re like me and really just wanted some R&R, eat all of the delicious food served and spend a day getting a massage at the spa, followed by a few hours of reading in one of the many silent rooms.

Notes: We swung by Halstatt, Austria on our drive from Nesslerhof to Austria wine country and definitely recommend you do the same! You’ve probably seen Halstatt all over Instagram, and in some regards THE photo location that everyone posts from was a little underwhelming after seeing the classic photo so many times, but the rest of the town was quite adorable and worth a visit. It was also an easy halfway point between Graz and the alps, a great place to stretch the legs.

SLOVENIA:

Stay: Hotel Nebesa in Kobarid

Eat/Drink: One of my forever favorites is Hisa Franko, though they have become quite popular after Chef’s Table and being donned a Michelin star. We suggest pivoting over to Lake Bled, and eating a beautiful, slow meal at Bled Castle whilst overlooking all of Lake Bled and the surrounding mountains.

Do: Visit Kranjska Gora. Walk around Lake Jasna. Drive down to Triglav National Park. Check out the Vintgar Gorge (note: closed in winter). Spend a day at Lake Bled.

Views of Lake Bled and surrounding peaks from Bled Castle

Lake Bled and Bled Castle from down below

Notes: Slovenia is a very expansive, incredibly beautiful place worthy of a longer visit in itself - and personally we love the summer season there the most. It’s also easily accessible from places in Italy like Venice… so we recommend that you drive from Venice through Friuli in the summer, and do some hiking around Triglav/Slap Kocjak when you can more deeply appreciate the stunning icy blue waters in their prime summer season.

Views of the alps on the drive from Austria to Slovenia

STYRIA:

Stay: SteiRerBLiCke in Sudsteiermark was the most incredible location for overlooking all of the vineyards, not too far from Gamlitz.

Eat/Drink: Restaurant Broadmoar is a new top 3 favorite restaurant of ours, and was found outside of Graz in Styria.

When I say life-changing experience, believe me. Truly life changing. I have been to a few Michelin/Chefs Table restaurants before they blew up, and this may have been an even better experience than some of those… so keep your eyes on this place. It’s certainly one that I want to stay hidden, so I can go back time and time again. We cannot say enough good things about the incredible, fun, knowledgeable staff. They specialize in unique local Austrian wines and hyper local meat/vegetable dishes, perfectly prepared. DO NOT MISS THIS - it was well worth the effort. A couple of dishes may or may not have brought us to tears (I promise it wasn’t the wine).

Do: There are so many gorgeous wineries to visit in Styria; you really cannot go wrong. We were there in the winter season, so things were certainly a bit quieter, but as our friends told us at Restaurant Broadmoar - people here are almost always willing to talk about and share their wines year round… just send them an email or a message on social media, and people tend to be thrilled to open their doors. Some wineries we wanted to visit and were told about often and will certainly see next time we are in town include Weingut und Buschenschenk Albert, Weingut Lackner-Tinnacher, Strohmeier, WeingutMuster, Weingut Werlitsch… and of course, Meinklang.

Notes: We easily drove to Styria from Graz, where we grabbed a Sixt rental car for about $40/day. Highly recommend this option for transportation, as you will want to be mobile! Europeans also care a LOT about making sure rental cars have adequate snow tires - so every car comes with studded tires in the winter. No worries there! Just be prepared to drive manual if you don’t otherwise specify :)

AMSTERDAM:

Stay: Eric Vokel Amsterdam Suites are our favorite place to stay aside from the Hoxton, which has been a favorite for years. We have recently been leaning towards more of apartment style stays, especially for longer trips where we want to feel some semblance of home, and Eric Vokel is exactly that, except better, because they help with breakfast, laundry needs, and have a front desk concierge who is ready and willing to help with any immediate needs. Not to mention they are literally two doors down from our favorite restaurant in the city, Choux. Eric Vokel can do no wrong!

View from our room terrace at Eric Vokel

Breakfast at Eric Vokel Amsterdam suites

Eat/Drink: Our favorite restaurant in town is without a doubt Choux, however there are many other honorable mentions. De Kas is a truly unique experience, as one of the pioneers of farm to table, though be sure to book well in advance. Hinata Ramen is our favorite cozy no-fuss ramen spot. Winkel43 is undeniably the best apple pie you’ll ever have in your life.

Do: Take a stroll in any of the parks. Westerpark and Vondelpark are our favorites. Also, a very niche off the beaten path experience known to locals but less so to tourists is a meal out at Vuurtorneiland, an old war bunker. You take a boat out from central Amsteram to a little island (thus the name Vuurtorneiland) and are treated to an absolutely delightful meal. This books up many months in advance so be sure to get your reservations in early, but it’s a special and worthwhile experience. In recent years, they have even opened up accommodations on the island, too, for those interested in staying!

Go eat bitterballen. Try a Brouwerij beer. Stroll the streets. Go to Foodhallen. We have a few other posts about best brown cafes in Amsterdam and other tips for staying like a local, so go click on those for a deeper dive!

Here’s our day by day itinerary for anyone desiring to follow similar / get a cadence of timing for each city:

Day 1-4 Oslo

(fly from Oslo to CPH)

Day 5-11 Copenhagen

(fly from CPH to Budapest)

Day 12-14 Budapest

(train from Budapest to Graz)

Day 15-17 Graz

(rent car and drive to Austrian alps)

Day 17-19 Austrian Alps

(drive from Austrian Alps to Styria via stops in Slovenia)

Day 19-21 Austria Styrian wine country

(fly to Amsterdam)

Day 21-23 Amsterdam

(fly home)

A Few Days in Mexico: the Cliff Notes on CDMX, Puerto Escondido, and the Mexican Volcanoes

April 21, 2024 Laura Lisowski

Where to stay: any of the Viadora properties are top notch; we stayed at Casa Cleo in Condesa and hope to visit the XOMA property in Roma the next time around! The best part about the Viadora properties is that it allows you to feel like you are living like a local. You’re greeted by a friendly face, have a fully functional kitchen, and the best way I can describe it as is that it “feels like home”. We greatly enjoyed sitting on the balcony in the mornings listening to the birds chirp whilst eating our healthy fresh fruits and muesli breakfast. There’s also a lot to be said for the ‘comfort’ factor of feeling safe in a big city away from home… Viadora offers all of this and then some, with a 24/7 front staff and doorman to ensure you enter/exit the property well. And honestly, another sleeper factor? Air conditioning. I’ve stayed in other hotels in CDMX on hot weeks of the year and their air conditioning was minimal at best… this is the real deal, and I slept like a (cool) baby every single night.

Other favorite stays are Ryo Kan, Habita Hotel, Hotel Carlota, The Wild Oscar, and Casa Pani.

Where to eat: Masala y Maiz and Meroma are consistently at the top of my list. Pujol is the classic recommendation for a top notch meal, but requires reservations many months in advance. Others to have on your radar are: Contramar, Tr3s, Havre77, Quintonil, Rosetta (their bakery is great for breakfast as well!), Cicatriz, Expendio de Maiz, Por siempra vegana, Comedor Jacinta, and lastly La Pitahaya Vegana for some incredible veggie tacos. Note that it is best to book ahead at all of these on OpenTable as they do fill up fast and many do not take walk ins!

Incredible natural wines at Masala y Maiz

And don’t forget to chase down a paleta or 2 or 10! My favorites are consistently the pistachio and oreo ones! Just type into Google ‘paleta near me’ and it won’t let you down. I speak from experience whenever the sweet tooth hits!

One of my favorite dining experiences in CDMX was also a secret one: Esquina Comun is a pop up lunch, where you have to message them for location right before. It is so very worth it, and an incredible experience! It was even featured in the NYTimes!

Lastly, a very special mention goes to LagoAlgo, which is a cultural center/restaurant posted up on a lake not too far from the Chapultepec Castle. This place boasts huge floor to ceiling windows and some of the most memorable chilaquiles we enjoyed on our trip. Very instagrammable, and a great little escape from the hustle and bustle of the city!

Where to drink: Loup Wine bar, Baltra Bar (one of the world’s best bars in 2023!), Parker and Lenox (jazz!), Handshake Bar. But honestly you can get a really great glass of wine or margarita at most places around town. It is Mexico, after all.

Bookstores: Be sure to check out all of the many bookstores in CDMX, or cafebrerias - they are fantastic in that bookstores commonly act as a ‘third place’ in CDMX so most have a full service cafe/restaurant in them and are a great place to open a laptop or a book and just spend an afternoonn. My favorites: Cafebreria El Pendulo, Biblioteca Vasconcelos, Libreria Porrua, Casa Bosques, and Under the Volcano Books in Condesa.

Some other cool stuff to see: Chapultepec Castle, Mooni art gallery, Esrawe studio, Mercado el 100, Arca Tierra, Decada, Tetetlan Cafe, Museo Tamayo.

Honorable mentions for weekend trips out of Mexico City of you get a chance/have the time: San Miguel de Allende (and stop in wine country along the way! You can either hire a car, or work with a tour company) and Valle de Bravo (book a stay at La Casa Rodavento and do not look back… it is incredible!)

And of course if you are *really* eager like yours truly, you can always climb the Mexican Volcanoes, with the grand finale as Pico de Orizaba! I wrote more about that trip here - and be sure to always hire a guide. I recommend Climbing the Seven Summits, always!

And if you are willing to hop on a quick plane ride from CDMX, do not sleep on surfer paradise Puerto Escondido! Stay at Casa TO, and explore all that the incredible town has to offer. But most importantly, take the serenity here as an excuse to relax!

Excellent restaurants in PE include: Atarraya, Glou Glou, Spirulina, Espadin Restaurant, Fauna Coffee & Resto, Cocofam, Chicama, Sativa, Mar Y Sol, Punta Vida, Bello Puerto, Cafe Losodeli.