We may be biased, but we think that the San Juan Islands rival some of the most beautiful places in the world, and contain multitudes of sealife, seafood, high class restaurants and experiences, and relaxation above all. For oyster lovers, this is a paradise on earth.
The mode of transport being the ferry system is a huge perk as well, makign the travel to and from as enjoyable as the experience itself.
Friday Harbor:
We took the ferry from Anacortes (via a quick stopover in Lopez Island for dinner at Ursa Minor, more on that below) and arrived in Friday Harbor just as the sun was setting. It had been awhile since the last visit to Friday Harbor, and we had forgotten how whimsical the town is, with restaurants, cafes, bookstores, wine shops just pouring into the ferry terminal almost seamlessly. The town almost feels as though a magical mermaid has crawled out of the water and splayed itself out across the streets… teeming with salty candies and barnacles stuck to her arms.
The town is deceivingly small when you first drive off the ferry, but there are many restaurants and shops tucked down back alleyways and there’s certainly enough to spend at least a full day exploring.
Stay: Lakedale Resort!!! (yes, 3 exclamation marks) This place is incredible and is very “choose your own adventure” whether you prefer to have a romantic cabin getaway (our choice!) or go camping with your kiddos; they have it all. We were really impressed with the cozy/cabin vibes of it all, combined with modern amenities which made it feel immediately like home, i.e. we loved the classic log cabin interior and rustic mountain bedding, but we also loved the smart amenities on the TV so we could watch our favorite Netflix shows while winding down with a pint of Ben & Jerry’s at the end of a long day of adventure. We also found ourselves spending a lot of time outside on our back deck, taking in the serene water views whilst enjoying eggs and bacon cooked in our kitchen (another perk!)
Also of note: there are 82 stunning acres to explore on the property, which we were sure to do on our Gazelle e-bikes! We loved cruising not only around the property itself, exploring the docks, on site shop, and plethora of available campgrounds, but it was also very easy to take our bikes off the campus itself given Lakedale’s proximity to other great highlights on the island.
Eat: If you’re a big oyster fan like we are, there are many locations to indulge on the island. Our favorites were Oystertale, Westcott Bay Shellfish Farm and Friday Harbor Seafood in the downtown right off the ferry terminal. Living in Seattle, we frequent many of the oyster bars available and have also been to Hama Hama Bay oysters and Taylor Shellfish Co and Westcott Bay is right up there with these excellent oyster institutions. We also had the smallest oysters we’ve ever had ay Westcott - not a bad thing… those suckers sure pack a salty punch!
Drink: Waiting Room, San Juan Island Brewing Co
We almost didn’t find out about Waiting Room, and what a loss that would have been. We had a couple hours to kill before our dinner rez at Oystertale and had high hopes that we would be able to find somewhere that served natural wines (our favorite) on the island. A quick last minute Google search led us to Roberto’s Waiting Room and we headed on over. As soon as we walked in, Roberto asked what we wanted to drink and started slinging entire bottles of our favorite vineyards’ wines onto the bar. We looked at each other and smiled, realizing that not only did he *have* natural wine but that we were going to have to pick between many fantastic options, and manage our consumption so as not to overdo it before our dinner. We sat for a little over an hour, as Roberto beguiled us with stories of life on Friday Harbor, and we even made a couple of new local friends… this place feels like a hole in the wall watering hole but for design-loving, natty wine slinging snobs like us :-) Perfection! *chefs kiss*!
Do: Go to Cattlepoint Lighthouse on the southernmost tip of San Juan Island, go to Lime Kiln Point State Park… and bring your binoculars / keep an eye out for whales, as they are commonly known to frequent the area!
We were really blown away by our experience at Cattlepoint Lighthouse in particular. As we parked our car along the road, we noticed a peloton of photographers with VERY BIG lenses chasing something, and suddenly a fox set foot in the road right alongside our car. As we exited and started on the path, we soon noticed not one but dozens of bald eagles flying overhead, clearly circling something on the beach below (which we’d later find to be a seal of some sort - their afternoon snack).
Visit Saturn’s Return Farm & Inn, too! A really special place (and we noted would make a great option for a future stay!) with a robust farm store filled with all kinds of local goodies: wines, honey, herbs, meat.
Last but not least, do *not* do what we almost did and nearly skip Roche Harbor. What a hidden gem of a town it is! This place feels like an entire entity in and of itself, apart from the rest of the Friday Harbor scene!
Roche Harbor boasts many great higher end shops and on a sunny day, is a perfect place to enjoy a slow breakfast on the patio at Lime Kiln Cafe or take a kayak out into the sunny calm summer waters.
Or just stop at the coffee stand and get 100 donuts to go; we won’t tell anybody!
Orcas Island:
Stay: We absolutely loved staying at our Eastsound cottage AirBnB, hosted by a long-time resident couple Mark and Stella (Mark is an esteemed carpenter and was the local high school’s woodshop teacher for 10+ years and he was even so kind as to show us some of what he’s currently working on at the property!) Staying here feels like a hug. The kitchen was well appointed, there were freshly picked flowers from the garden on multiple tables, and the owners were very welcoming and open about sharing the entire property.
I’m a big fan of traveling in such a way that also feels like you’re at home… the daily rituals, the ability to brew your own cup of morning coffee, grocery shopping for a few usual but also fun local favorites and then enjoying them from the comfort of your own (temporary) home. This might have been one of my favorite AirBnB’s for this in that it just immediately felt like home. It’s been months since our visit and we still think often of Mark and Stella and their beautiful property!
Eat: Houlme is hands down the best restaurant on the island, and with that has also taken the spot of our top restaurant in the Pacific Northwest. Yes, you heard that right. Top restaurant in the *entire* Pacific Northwest. We’ve been talking for months about what makes a great restaurant truly great, and this place hits all of the marks. For starters (no pun intended), the restaurant itself is in a hyper cool structure and is very well appointed from an interiors perspective. Wood and metal textures remind us of many of the favorite Nordic restaurants we’ve been to over the years, and has a cool midcentury but hip sort of vibe going for it.
Next up is their wine menu: 10/10 no notes. The irony isn’t lost on us that shortly after we walked into this place, the barback of our favorite Seattle wine bar (Otherworld) walked into the restaurant and sat a couple tables over from us. People who know wines *know* and clearly love this place and for good reason. Funky, interesting natural wines from all over the world - Slovenia, Austria, Australia - don the shelves and the menu, and somehow all pair perfectly with whatever you choose on the menu. Our first wine had aromas of parmesan cheese, and while that might sound unappealing to some, we *loved* it.
Lastly, we would be remiss if we didn’t shout out the best oysters scene on the island. I was even able to pick up a new favorite dad cap here. Great scene, great bbq, great swag. Everything you want in an oysters place. Bring a jacket as it does get cooler in the afternoon as it loses its sun, but aside from that, Buck Bay Shellfish Farm is an institution and a must visit!
Drink: Island Hoppin’ Brewing company, and it’s right next to the airport so you can watch all the little private planes take off nearby. Olga Rising has the best lattes and cappuccinos. Houlme is still our favorite for the best glass of wine. Doe Bay Wine company is also a favorite, with some of the best selection of biodynamic wines we’ve ever seen. We actually go to their Seattle location, and equally enjoy both.
Do: Check out Orcas Island Pottery for the most incredible pottery store I’ve ever laid eyes on. You simply drive into this divine, ethereal location right on the coast, half expecting to see the scenery open from forest to beach… but no, you are ushered into a magical fairy-like garden and series of sheds and treehouses which are all filled to the brim with every type of neutral, funky, spunky, colorful pottery you could ever imagine. There’s almost too much pottery here, if you can believe it. Be warned that you may have a tough time choosing!
Lastly, hop on an e-bike and check out North Beach. Go thrifting at Smorgasbord. Explore Mount Constitution. Get lunch at Deer Harbor. Visit some of the local farms to pick up some local honey and/or locally-made Nicholas Coutturi/Piquenique wine (yes, believe it or not, you can actually make wine in the San Juan Islands… and these folks are!)
We also really enjoyed going for evening walks down in Orcas Island harbor off the downtown during low tide. I had had one goal for this trip and that was to see starfish, and the low tide did not disappoint. You may have to peek under some rocks to catch them, but they are there and aplenty. Look at how vibrant they are in color! Swoon.
Lopez Island:
Stay: Lopez Farm Cottages & Tent Camping is the best spot on the island.
Eat: Ursa Minor Lopez, Haven Kitchen & Bar, Setsunai, Vita’s Wildly Delicious, Fine Mess Bakery. I had heard about Ursa Minor for many months, possibly even years, and so this was certainly the highlight of the Lopez Island visit for us. The venue itself is absolutely stunning, with gorgeous purple flowers adorning the exterior, and then an interior that feels both rustic and modern all at once. Like stepping into a modernized sail boat. I was also impressed with their wine/goodies shop, as they have many items for purchase for takeaway (they also do weekday daytime banh mi sandwiches which always seem to sell out almost immediately, so take note!) Our meal did not disappoint and was filled with fresh, wonderful flavors, and was perfectly paired with some of our favorite chilled red and funky orange wines.
Drink: Lopez Grind for coffee, Brewvado Tap Room, or Vita’s Wildly delicious is a great spot to grab a casual glass of wine & peruse the many bottles adorning their shelves.
Do: Stop by the Barn Owl Bakery stand for honey, fresh bread, pastries (get there early in the day or else supplies may run out!). This place was such a nice hidden gem, tucked into the woods, and the aesthetics of it all are exactly what you want it to be. A very gorgeous barn and a shop which clearly runs on pride and love.
Once you’ve stuffed your face with local breads, treats, and maybe even some of those killer Setsunai noodles, you’re probably feeling ready to get moving a bit outside and we can’t blame you. We definitely want to spend some more time exploring around Lopez, as it feels like we only scratched the surface, but we would recommend a quick hike out to Iceberg Point, or to check out (or camp at!) the Spencer spit.
