Eugene and Willamette Valley in 3 Days: An Exploration of the Senses

July 31, 2025 Laura Lisowski

Day One: Arrive in Eugene

Navigating the I5 corridor is not one for the weak, with numerous construction zones and even complete highway closures make sure to plan ahead and leave a heavy cushion of time to get to your destination. After a lot of cruising, road trip snacks, pee breaks, and Mumford & Sons singalongs, we made it to our hotel and our evening reservation at Sweet Waters on the River. Aaron our waiter was extremely friendly with guiding us around the many options on the menu, and from the jump, we were welcomed with a level of hospitality that both surprised and delighted.

The midcentury modern architecture which was likely accentuated with the recent renovation was also impressive and striking from the moment we walked in the door. Having personally lived in Amsterdam for 5 years, I saw many elements of Dutch design (curves, colors, shapes, dominating windows to let the outside in) which gave me the familiar feeling of home. Not to mention the shadow play throughout the hallways which charms you as you enter each great room… bravo! Execution level 100. Frank Lloyd Wright would have been proud.

For a hotel tucked into a shopping complex, our predisposed thoughts of what to expect quickly changed. From check-in to our servers, we were met with utmost attention to detail often not seen in Oregon, a level of care usually reserved for our high end European stays. Mind you, an observation we do not make lightly. Not only were our hosts attentive, but they also proved to be vividly knowledgeable about the food, drinks and surrounding area.

Our first meal at SweetWaters started with a salty focaccia bread, warm from the oven, with a hearty serving of butter covered in honey and fresh herbs. Erick was instantly brought back to his blissful days of his childhood enjoying sweet and savory combination on a weekly basis. This was followed up by a gorgeous colorful and lightly dressed salad followed by tender pork belly burnt ends, dressed in a citrus sauce that melted in your mouth. For our entree, we enjoyed a split chicken, with brown butter rosemary reduction and a myriad of vegetables dancing on the plate. Flavors were simple, but well executed and our taste buds were grateful.

For cocktails, we tried the Sage & Stone, a herbal gin cocktail shouting from the rooftops with flavor, and the King Tide, which was a mezcal based play on a pisco sour; frothy with the smoke singing through the lime and passionfruit.

Having had a long day of travel, we returned to our room where we enjoyed the waterfront patio with a read (don’t forget to bring yours!) basking in the evening sun.

Day 2: Farm Visits & Johan Vineyards

We started early back at SweetWaters, with a hearty breakfast containing eggs benedict, and an egg scramble plate with bacon. Organic coffee re-fills were included, and welcomed!

Setting off for the day, we started by walking through the town, exploring the shops at 5th Street Public Market in downtown Eugene. A collective of local Oregon goods ranging from flowers, makers markets, wine stores and bakeries greeted our senses as we perused the multiple floors, indoor/ outdoor space encompassing the area.

The big bakery stop of the day (we are never ones to miss a pastry!) was Noisette Pastry Kitchen, a half mile away from the markets, which is somewhat of a local institution for baked goods aficionados… and shocking, it is heavily European influenced. We enjoyed a chocolate croissant (crispy exterior, with a soft and buttery interior filled with warm…you guessed it, chocolate!). Laura also snagged a devilishly appealing roasted lamb sandwich to take with us on our day.

From there, we ventured off into the outskirts of town to Groundwork Organics, a local organic farm stand lovingly filled with dozens of varieties of fresh produce and flowers. We had to enjoy a carrot in one of their fields to get the authentic experience!

Though a slight bit of a drive (a little over an hour), we then headed north to explore our first vineyard of the trip (we’re in the Willamette Valley after all!), Johan Vineyards. We first discovered Johan during our last foray into the Valley, but didn’t have time to enjoy. In the intervening time, we had read up on them, tried a few of their more interesting bottles from our local Seattle shops (including their 2022 Pinot Noir Pet-Nat, yum yum).

The thing about these wineries that makes them stand apart from the rest is the organic/biodynamic practices they use in the making of their wine. These wines are meant to actually taste like *wine* not the grocery store gobbledy gook the cheap stuff is filled with… and its apparent from first taste. “These wines just taste…different… they taste!” exclaimed a fellow visitor. Yes, yes, that is the whole point.

Led by Amanda, we set out on a tour de palette of lively and voracious wines, while also learning about their ethos. Their 180 acre vineyard is a grape producer first, and a vitner second. They sell a lot of their fruit to other producers, and release around 5,000 cases on an annual basis themselves. Heavily influenced from Austrian wines, they use the unique Van Duser AVA location to leverage the cool air fed from the nearby Pacific to grow high alpine grapes fueling the high acid wines we love to enjoy. Combined with biodynamic farming practices, experimental fermentation methods using predominantly neutral oak and newly purchased amphorae (we’ll get to this more later), they let the grapes speak their truth, and they have a lot to say!

Morgan Beck, the winemaker, joined our tasting with a gleaming red beaker filled to the brim with a gamay/blaufrankisch wine only a week away from bottling. She hung around to share her ethos of low manipulation wine, and how she plans to work with the changing environment in the Willamette Valley. Interesting, a lot of her affinity wine comes from Austria, and given our time spent in Styria, we could taste many of the similarities to some of the best that Austria has to offer.

TLDR, we loved it so much, we joined their wine club. Nuff Said.

That evening, we enjoyed our third and final meal at SweetWaters, once again on the patio we basically called home at that point. After filling our hearty appetites with a perfectly cooked salmon and mouthwatering pork chop, we took the time to meander the Willamette river trail system to get a more intimate view of the popular green belt lining the Willamette River in town. Graced with not only a massive community garden, rose garden and even a pop up performance of “Pietro” in the park, it was lovely to see a vibrant community enjoying the outdoors in the heat of summer.

Day 3: Head North to Willamette Wine Country: Antiquum Farm & Beckham Estates

Our final day in the southern Willamette Valley started by exploring the huge campus of the University of Oregon. After chuckling at the fact that nearly every window we saw on campus had a big “O” sticker (guess you can’t knock the school spirit!), we ate a filling meal at Studio One Cafe: a massive pulled pork chilaquiles, a pancake the size of our heads, and a rather large much-needed omelette + house fries to balance out the wine, of course.

Thereafter, we did a quick flyby of another pastry shop Sweet Life Petite where I would’ve purchased a big chunky cookie had I not been so full from our breakfast. Simultaneously, Erick realized how close we were to Springfield, OR and requested (demanded) we go see the Simpson’s murals located across the river in Springfield, often thought to be one of the original influences of the town the show depicts.

After Erick the fanboy got his fix and we naturally snagged a few fun photos, it was time to send it back into the hills to get an education on English Gardens and pure wines from Antiquum Farm, a short half an hour drive out of town. Just driving up to the property and walking up to the tasting room was an experience in itself… a sensual experience. Fallen apples lined the path up to the door, and whiffs of lavender presented themselves with abundance.

Our tasting was led by Jacqueline, who thoroughly educated us on the enigmatic life of Stephen Hagen, a former actor turned farmer. It should be immediately noted and observed that Antiquum Farm is not your average vineyard; it’s a fully integrated, regenerative ecosystem. This remarkable estate is redefining what it means to grow wine, blending old-world farming principles with an unwavering commitment to soil health, animal vitality, and the rhythm of the land.

What makes their enterprise unique is its “grazing-based viticulture,” a revolutionary method where sheep, geese, chickens, and pigs are part of the vineyard’s lifecycle. These animals don’t just coexist with the vines; they co-create the terroir. Their movements aerate the soil, their waste fertilizes it, and their presence eliminates the need for external inputs. The result? Wines of incredible depth, energy, and precision which are merely successful byproducts of a thriving farm organism.

The wines themselves are colorful, abundant, alive. They strike you as textural, thoughtful, and vibrant. From their electric Pinot Gris (Aurosa) to their soulful Juel Pinot Noir, each bottle tells the story of a farm in balance, where human hands guide but never dominate.

Antiquum is also family-run, and visiting feels like being welcomed into a philosophy as much as a place. Tastings are intimate, educational, and immersive (not to mention, the tasting room might be one of my favorite venues…ever? Gorg.) You’ll leave not just with bottles, but with a deeper understanding of wine as a living product of the land. Thank you, Jacqueline, for the tasting and full farm tour! Oink oink!

(And keep your eyes peeled for some of the special Farm events they put on, including a Garden Lunch series, Burgers & Bottles, Roasts, etc.!)

After spending far too much time at Antiquum to the point where we almost missed our next tasting, we hurriedly purchased some wine so we could be on our way to Beckham Estate Vineyard. Not a short drive from Antiquum, but we were headed north anyway on our wine crawl towards Seattle, so it made sense for us given our final destination.

Nestled in the Chehalem Mountains AVA of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Beckham Estate Vineyard is more than a beautiful, family-run winery; it’s one of the most innovative and historically rich winemaking projects in the Pacific Northwest. Founded by Andrew and Annedria Beckham, the estate merges small-lot, organically farmed wines with an ancient winemaking tradition few in the U.S. have dared to revive: clay amphora fermentation.

What sets Beckham apart aside from their extraordinary line of wines fermented and aged in handmade clay vessels (amphorae) is the fact that the vessels themselves are crafted onsite by Andrew himself, a ceramicist (and former ceramics teacher!) turned winemaker. Andrew is the proud founder and owner of Novum Ceramics, the only producer of commercially available amphorae for winemakers and brewers in North America!

These amphorae are inspired by qvevri, the 8,000-year-old Georgian clay vessels traditionally buried underground to produce natural wines in harmony with nature. Qvevri winemaking is one of the oldest and most respected techniques in the world and Beckham is among the first in the U.S. to make these vessels from local Oregon clay, fire them in his own kiln, and use them to create wines that bridge ancient tradition with modern Oregon terroir. Why clay? More energy & tension, slower fermentation, twice the amount of oxygen during aging, acts as a fining chamber, wines finish clarity and faster than in barrel.

The best part about it though? You can feel the “former teacher” in Andrew from the moment you meet him; he inspires shared enthusiasm and curiosity and is willing to answer (almost ;)) all of your questions. We’ve certainly met other winemakers who are much more cagey, afraid to let other people into their trade secrets, but Andrew is humble, open, and welcoming.

The wines resulting from their long slumbers in Novum clay pots include a skin-contact Pinot Gris and earthy, textured Pinot Noir, both of which are vibrant, pure, and deeply expressive. They carry both the soul of the soil and the whisper of history, untouched by oak or stainless steel. It’s winemaking stripped to its essence: clay, grapes, time, and intention.

Visiting Beckham Estate is a study in passion and a full dedication to the continuity of a craft: part vineyard, part pottery studio, part history lesson all wrapped in the intimacy of a family project with global resonance. If you’re looking to taste Oregon through the lens of the past, there is nowhere quite like it.

And a final bonus: Beckham has their own AirBnB properties on site, so if staying in their very backyard suits your fancy, you’re in luck!

After leaving Beckham Estate and accidentally missing our reservation by just a narrow 30 minutes at No Clos Radio (doh! we will be back, as it looks amazing!), we wrapped it all off with a meander through McMinnville’s MacFresco event, where they shut down their main strip to cars and open it up to outdoor seating & live music every weekend from June - Sept. We’ve been to McMinnville during the sleepier times of the year, and boy, this was not that! The streets were buzzing, live music happening on seemingly every corner, and folks were clearly enjoying the al fresco dining everywhere they could. McMinnville never disappoints!

The beauty of wine (and travel for that matter!) as we get older isn’t about quantity, it is about quality and indulging in something we believe in. It just feels good, ya know? Building these relationships with producers in the Willamette Valley has become a lesson in the diversity of understanding what is being produced, and we firmly believe that just as you should (and probably do already) know your butcher, you should also spend time getting to know your local vintner. Cheers!

A 3 Week Winter Tour of Europe for the Adventurous!

January 21, 2025 Laura Lisowski

“So you’re the other ones, eh?” said an older American gentleman to us at a museum in Copenhagen when he heard our American accents. “Excuse me?” I asked, prodding him to repeat what he said. “I mean, you’re the only other American couple we’ve seen traveling this trip during the winter… you’re winter travelers, like us!” he exclaimed.

It’s true. We have absolutely come to love a winter European adventure, despite the colder temps, despite the higher chance of getting sick/having flight delays… we seem to have a proclivity for riskier travel. But really, we see something in winter adventures that our new friend had too: less crowds, easier restaurant reservations, and an opportunity to see a place in its natural winter element. The temps the last few years of winter travels have really not been all *that bad* either… no different than they would have been back at home. In fact, the weather is likely an improvement for us Seattleites, as the December and January months tend to be dark and quite rainy.

The good news is: flights keep-a-runnin’ all winter long, as do the ever-convenient and scenic trains across Europe. This trip, we wanted to take full opportunity of the 3 weeks of PTO our tech jobs allowed, and so we mapped out a diverse trip which would allow us to see and experience so many things that we love: good design, pastries (cardamom everything, please), excellent unique and funky wines, mountain adventures + Aperol apres’, inspiring architecture, and best of all: interesting, kind, diverse people of all walks of life.

Without further ado, here’s the step by step itinerary from our 3 week trip. At the very end, you’ll find a day by day guide if you want to parse out timing. We felt we had just the right amount of time in each place, but feel free to tweak according to your preferences. We probably could’ve spent another day or two in the Alps, as we are mountain-obsessed folks and will never turn down more mountain time. You may also find you want more than a couple of days in Budapest, and perhaps less days in Copenhagen… we personally felt a much stronger pull towards the Danish design, lifestyle, architecture so spent an extra few days there, but you should choose according to what you fancy and plan accordingly!

OSLO:

Stay: Grand Hotel Oslo, a history-filled, central, stunning hotel with probably the best hotel breakfast we have *ever* had (no we aren’t kidding… it was amazing). The hotel has been around since 1874 and in the intervening time, has played host to international celebrities, world leaders, politicians, Nobel Peace prize laureates. It’s certainly called the “Grand” hotel for good reason. There is a heck of a lot of history here. They also shared with us some really fun and quirky stories about the hotel which I couldn’t resist including here:

1) The prominent Palmen restaurant on site has been used for many different purposes over the years. When the hotel was initially built, the Palmen was a horse stable! Later it became a garden and eventually a backyard, then a winter garden. It wasn’t until 1913 that it finally became an integrated part of the hotel in it’s current restaurant form today.

2) The hotel has hosted thousands of historical events over the years, including for instance when Roald Amundsen, the explorer returned from his North Pole expedition in 1920. He was quoted to have said, “If in south, if in north, if in east, if in west… Grand Hotel is and will always be the best”

3) Many celebrities have stayed at the Grand, from Frank Sinatra to the Rolling Stones to Michael Jackson. You’ll find signatures of many of them in the Palmen restaurant.

4) The viral song/video “What does the fox say” was written by Norwegian comedy duo Ylvis entirely in the Palmen restaurant in the Grand.

There are so many other interesting and quirky facts, but I’ll keep it brief. You’ll just have to visit yourself to learn the rest!

The many options at brunch at Grand Hotel

Eat/Drink:

Eat: Vulkanfisk, Elias mat & sant, Hyde, Le Mayor, Maaemo, Arakataka, LuLu, Restaurant Kontrast, Crow Bar & Bryggeri, Fat City, Territoriet, Roots Restaurant (great mezze!)

Bakeries: Tid Bakeri, Apent Bakeri, Farine, Encore Oslo, Obelia, Noro Bjolsen Bakeri, Daegens bakeri, Bob the Bagel.

Drinks: Dr Kneipp’s Vinbar, Arakataka, Radegast Wine Bar, ROOR, Eff Eff Oyster and Wine Bar, Merkur Bar, Nektar vinbar, SALT (book tables outside by a fire), special mention of Tim Wendelboe for *coffee*

Strolling Oslo streets on a quiet December day

Trying the many types of beers on tap at ROOR

Do: Visit the Christmas markets at Spikersuppa, check out the Opera house, go to the Deichman Public library (and check out the conceptual Future Library on the upper floors!), check out the Museum of the Viking Age (reopening in 2027), book a sauna. Check out the Mathallen food hall (you could seriously spend a full day in here just eating!), walk around the design shops, and absolutely go sample coffee at the famous Tim Wendelboe!

Beautiful lamps in design shops — Design shops in Oslo

Notes: Be mindful of what days you are in Oslo, as much closes during the Christmas to New Years gap, and even into mid January. Many of our long coveted eating and wine-ing spots were not open over the holidays so we will have to return during the summer for those! The city definitely felt quiet during the winter… which for us was just great, but want to set expectations accordingly if you are looking for a buzzy hot spot, you may want to go elsewhere!

COPENHAGEN:

Stay: 25hours Indre By. When I say you need not look further for any other hotels after hearing this name, I mean it. This is one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed at, and every. single. detail. is so well thought out, that you almost feel as though you are staying in an artistic masterpiece more than a hotel itself. They also have an incredible breakfast, the most posh lobby bar (and lobby in general… so many cozy fireplaces/reading spots that you wish/feel like it was your own home), and a very cool little shop including a self-serve candy bar (!!), many design/Copenhagen souvenir takeaways (not the tourist shop kind, but actually well curated), and even some beautiful clothing to purchase.

Our room also had a full view of one of the gorgeous inner city streets, and some nights we confess we just brought takeout and snacks back to our room to watch movies with a front row seat to town from bed … in many ways, it made for an even more superior experience than hitting the town. Win-win!

Entrance into the magical 25hours Indre By

Eat: So many great spots in CPH that it’s hard to know where to start, here are some of our favorites: Pauli, Nr. 30, Sanchez, Vaekst, SAFARI, Ancestrale, Hyttefadet, Hooked (my favorite salmon burger in the world with great natural wines!), Pizzeria C’ho Fame, Abaco (takeout!), Gasoline Grill (for a classic smash burger!)

Bakeries: Gosh, where to start. I swooned over Cardamom pastries for months before coming to CPH and not only was I pleasantly surprised with all of the traditional cardamom buns found, but there were many incredible surprises in pastry form, too, including the pistachio croissants at BUKA and the cardamom *croissant* at Hart Bageri. Yum! Other mentions: Meyers Bageri, H.U.G. Bageri, Rug Bakery, Skipper Bageri, Galst Bageri.

Drink: Vinterhytten (seasonal), BRUS, Anlobet, Fermentoren Beer Bar (check out the Big Lebowski-themed bathroom!), Library Bar, Fire Tyve, Cafe Side Hustle, Pio Vin & Bar, Le Petit Vinbar (in the Torverhallerne), Ubbe’s Vinhanndel/Vinbar, Pompette, not your USUAL wine bar, Laban wine bar, RASCAL, Den Vandrette, Sabotoren, Paradiso, Bar Vivant, Melo, Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade, ABEN Brewery.

Do: Check out all of the design shops (and maybe, if you’re richer than us, buy a special piece to bring home!) including X Y and Z, go spent a few hours at the TorvehallerneKPH (food hall), walk around the University of Copenhagen Library, check out the Designmuseum Danmark.

Lighting inspiration in Designmuseum Danmark

Aside from all of the design/architecture which is an obvious starting place in Copenhagen, the Danish War museum was also a really incredible experience and a great place to stay warm on a cold winters day. We enjoyed learning all about XYZ whilst also seeing a live model of the war in Afghanistan complete with many soldiers stories.

The museum houses permanent exhibitions about war, defense and weapon technology, and presents Danish military history from the 1500s until today, with some very exceptional artifacts dating as far back as the 16th century. There’s a treasure trove of artifacts from samurai swords and ship models upstairs, if you’re into that kind of thing!

Notes: We were in CPH right around New Years and in the days following and while we felt VERY fulfilled by our trip, we did want to mention that some of our wishlist restaurants and shops were still closed through the second week of January. January 1 was a particularly difficult day to find really anything open… but it improved from there and overall we had zero regrets about visiting in the winter. In fact, it was quite nice having it (mostly) to ourselves with more local tourists and less Americans/other.

BUDAPEST:

Stay: We *loved* our stay at the very special luxury hotel, Mystery Hotel Budapest, especially with the spa component. It offered a very relaxing atmosphere and was quite close in walking distance to all of the shops/restaurants (or you can Uber if preferred, as Uber is quite affordable in Budapest). We joked that this felt like the most fun serious hotel we have ever stayed in, with a Mona Lisa behind the bed wearing a VIP necklace, and almost overdone (but not) decor. The breakfast included was also as over the top and extra as they come… I could not have eaten more food and still walked out of there - but that’s what makes it special. It’s a tongue in cheek type of decadence that you might not get at home but certainly will come to expect at Mystery Hotel.

Wellness and sauna at Mystery Hotel Budapest

A VIP Mona Lisa at Mystery Hotel Budapest

Eat: I joked the whole time that Budapest felt more like “Foodapest” as there are endless amounts of wine bars, bakeries and VPR (very posh restaurants!) to explore in the city. We did find a few relatively laid back but top-quality places that we loved, so will include some of those here, with some honorable mentions as well.

Best dinner options were Circo Pizza (love love their pizza + natural wine in a casual atmosphere), PINGRUMBA, Levant Lebanese Bistro, SALT, Babka Budapest (top notch!), BAR LOLA, HACHI Budapest, Zazie Bistro & Bar, Retek Bistro, MAK restaurant, Borkonyha, KonyvBar & Restaurant, TATI Farm to Table. LuLu Budapest was a great, trendy and healthy breakfast option, as was Lion’s Locker.

The Central Market Hall, built in 1897 (!) is also a fun spot to pick up some snacks or some food-related mementos to take home for you or your family/friends. We enjoyed seeing what was in season for fruit, and saw a lot of pastries unique to Eastern Europe.

Bakeries: VAJ Sas, NOR\MA, Laget Pekseg, COFFEE STAND BACKDOOR, Kern Collective Coffee, CORTO, Deryne Kenyer, Pekmuhely, Vekni, aran bakery (check out their porridge place a few doors down as well called Fagel by Artizan).

Drinks: Gravity Brewing, Huncutka Bite & Wine, WINE NOT? Wine bar, Charbon Art Cafe, Tokaj wine bar

A really fantastic meal of pizza and natural wine at Circo Pizza

A cinnamon bun for walking from aran bakery

Plethora of fruit on tap at Central Market hall in Budapest

Do: one of our favorite adventures in Budapest was simply walking and wandering the streets. We also made time to go up to Fisherman’s Bastion which offered incredible, unparalleled views of the entire city from the Pest side (side note, we spent most of our time on the other side, and only later in the trip did we discover we may have even liked the Pest side more… definitely worth going back for future exploring!). There are also so many incredible libraries to visit (a personal favorite thing for us to do, if you had not yet picked up on that!) and we recommend checking out as many of them as you can… our favorites were the Szabo Ervin and the Budapest University Library.

A bit of background on the Szabo Ervin: it was not always the library it is today, as once upon a time it was originally constructed as a palace - and its origins are on display from the moment one enters its wings, evidenced by its gilded interiors, floor to ceiling mirrors and ornate lighting fixtures. The Wenckheim Palace was originally created during the height of the Austro-Hungarian empire and served as a classic example of Hungarian Neo-Baroque architecture. In 1927, the residence was bought by the City Council of Budapest, and after four years of construction, it was reopened as a library in 1931 as Metropolitan Ervin Szabo Library. To date, it holds 1.1 million volumes and opens its doors to visitors for around 4 euros.

If you want to obsess even more over cool Budapest libraries, we recommend starting here.

If short on time, we also recommend you at minimum check out Fishermans Bastion, a stunning architectural marvel in the Budapest Castle District. Built in the late 19th century, it opened in 1902 for the Hungarian Millennium celebrations as a fortress featuring pointed towers and turrets, reminiscent of a fairytale castle. Since 1987, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While in Budapest, we would be remiss if we didn’t also mention the need to set aside a full day to check out one of the baths. While we didn’t get an opportunity to do so on this trip, we’ve heard from many folks that is a worthwhile and necessary part of a first (or 90th) visit to the city.

Notes: Ubers were quite cheap for scooting around town. Definitely allocate some time to check out both the Buda and the Pest side, as they are distinctly different and neither should be neglected!

Interior views of Budapest University library

Gorgeous city views from Fisherman’s Bastion

Inside of Szabo Ervin library in a former palace

Outdoor bookstores are common in Budapest

GRAZ:

Stay: NED Hotel and Hotel Weitzer Graz.

Eat: One of our favorite spots in Graz was an incredible Moroccan restaurant specializing in traditional tagines, called Ya Habibi. We’d definitely recommend starting here! Other honorable mentions include Der Steirer, Gatto im Museum, Cafe Moses, GenieBerei am Markt, Oskar am Markt, KABUFF Bistro, Restaurant Kornati, Mohrenwirt Graz, Pierogi, EL PESCADOR im Rathaus, HUMMEL, Das Mundwerk.

Gorgeous natural wines in Graz at Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar

Bakeries: Coffeeshop Barista’s St Peter, Cafe Greenhouse, Cafe Fotter, Mimi’s, Klescher, Bakery Kern, Martin Auer.

Drinks: Wine bars are aplenty too for sampling local Austrian wines. We loved Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar and the owner was extremely friendly and generous with his time in telling us all about Austrian wines. Also check out Tscheppe ums Eck, Weinbar Auenbrugger, Gerlitz Hof, das MARKUS, WeinKost, Klapotetz Weinbar.

Do: There is a plethora of historic and contemporary architecture in Graz, including the Franciscan Church… but after a lot of time spent in cities this trip, our preference was actually all of the beautiful land/wineries and spaces outside of Graz, particularly as you head towards Styria (next section of our trip!)

Notes: Graz is the second largest city in Austria, which was news to us! We often hear the names Vienna, Innsbruck, Salzburg… Graz stays ever so slightly off the radar to the rest of us despite its size.

AUSTRIAN ALPS:

Stay: Hotel Nesslerhof - the happiness hotel is untouchable when it comes to incredible location, hospitality and overall experience in the Austrian alps. Their only flaw is that not as many people know about them as compared to places in Chamonix, Zermatt… but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Get in while you can… they’re heating up! (They’ve also graciously shared with us a discount code for first time visitors: use the code FIRSTSTAY for 5% off a 4 night stay!)

While we’ve certainly vacationed in the past in the more traditionally popular ski towns, we are actually huge fans of this option as a healthy alternative - perhaps even better, and more exclusive? The emphasis of the hotel is natural everything, and happiness everything, and you feel it from the moment you walk in, from the appealing and organic decor choices, to the enthusiasm and happiness emitted by the staff themselves. Whenever I’ve been to another one of the more popular resort times, I find myself at times overwhelmed by 1) choices of things to do outside of the lodge/skiing itself, 2) pulled in many directions versus doing what I was actually intending to do which is REST and decompress, and 3) food options, and sussing out various restaurants within spitting distance of my accommodations.

Hotel Nesslerhof sort of has all of the things you want - in ONE place. Their all inclusive model includes the most incredible (and ABUNDANT) meals you’ve ever had in your life, to the point where we had to start rationing ourselves on the amazing options (you mean local homemade icecream is included every night after a fresh sushi buffet AND a four course meal?!)… they also have more quiet/relaxation/spa rooms than you can even find time to visit while there. We got massages and visited the stunning spa looking out at the mountains, and even found time to enjoy their workout room as well. AND, best of all, the skiing is right out the front door so you literally walk to the slope from your bedroom. The proximity of everything made for a truly relaxing, indulgent, and happy experience which truly rivals all of those other places you may have heard about. TLDR: Don’t sleep on Nesslerhof and Großarl!

(And another bonus is that it’s in spitting distance of Slovenia, so you can also go ski Kranjska Gora if you’re looking for a bit of variety!)

Views of hotel Nesslerhof after a morning dusting

Eat/Drink: Though the town of Großarl does have a few other options, we ate all of our meals at Nesslerhof, as the meals are all included in the experience and they were 5 star, unbeatable cuisine, so why would you go anywhere else? Something we absolutely *loved* as well is the emphasis on local when it comes to the foods being served. Cheese comes from right down the road, meats as well… we are huge fans of eating hyperlocal and Nesslerhof delivers.

Local meats perfectly prepared at supper

We admit: Nesslerhof was so enjoyable that the only time we left the property was to ski/snowboard, and of course partake in apres up at the Sky Lounge Wolke 7 at the new mountain station of the Kieserlbahn cable car. 360 degree views of the Austrian alps, Aperol spritzes to our hearts delight, and a lot of tomfoolery from fellow skiers? We had a super A+ day!

Riding ski lift back to Hotel Nesslerhof

Views in town as the sun sets in Großarl

Aperol spritz apres ski at Sky Lounge Wolke 7

Do: Ski in and ski out of Nesslerhof, obviously. Be sure to go up to the Sky Lounge Wolke 7. But really, just enjoy staying at Nesslerhof, as it is the main attraction of this visit. We really loved the emphasis on natural happiness which is touted by the entire staff at Nesslerhof. You feel comfortable, and like you are able to enjoy a bit of luxury in an entirely non-pretentious, totally organic type of way. If outdoor sports are your thing, great, go do that and then come back and enjoy a sauna. Or if you’re like me and really just wanted some R&R, eat all of the delicious food served and spend a day getting a massage at the spa, followed by a few hours of reading in one of the many silent rooms.

Notes: We swung by Halstatt, Austria on our drive from Nesslerhof to Austria wine country and definitely recommend you do the same! You’ve probably seen Halstatt all over Instagram, and in some regards THE photo location that everyone posts from was a little underwhelming after seeing the classic photo so many times, but the rest of the town was quite adorable and worth a visit. It was also an easy halfway point between Graz and the alps, a great place to stretch the legs.

SLOVENIA:

Stay: Hotel Nebesa in Kobarid

Eat/Drink: One of my forever favorites is Hisa Franko, though they have become quite popular after Chef’s Table and being donned a Michelin star. We suggest pivoting over to Lake Bled, and eating a beautiful, slow meal at Bled Castle whilst overlooking all of Lake Bled and the surrounding mountains.

Do: Visit Kranjska Gora. Walk around Lake Jasna. Drive down to Triglav National Park. Check out the Vintgar Gorge (note: closed in winter). Spend a day at Lake Bled.

Views of Lake Bled and surrounding peaks from Bled Castle

Lake Bled and Bled Castle from down below

Notes: Slovenia is a very expansive, incredibly beautiful place worthy of a longer visit in itself - and personally we love the summer season there the most. It’s also easily accessible from places in Italy like Venice… so we recommend that you drive from Venice through Friuli in the summer, and do some hiking around Triglav/Slap Kocjak when you can more deeply appreciate the stunning icy blue waters in their prime summer season.

Views of the alps on the drive from Austria to Slovenia

STYRIA:

Stay: SteiRerBLiCke in Sudsteiermark was the most incredible location for overlooking all of the vineyards, not too far from Gamlitz.

Eat/Drink: Restaurant Broadmoar is a new top 3 favorite restaurant of ours, and was found outside of Graz in Styria.

When I say life-changing experience, believe me. Truly life changing. I have been to a few Michelin/Chefs Table restaurants before they blew up, and this may have been an even better experience than some of those… so keep your eyes on this place. It’s certainly one that I want to stay hidden, so I can go back time and time again. We cannot say enough good things about the incredible, fun, knowledgeable staff. They specialize in unique local Austrian wines and hyper local meat/vegetable dishes, perfectly prepared. DO NOT MISS THIS - it was well worth the effort. A couple of dishes may or may not have brought us to tears (I promise it wasn’t the wine).

Do: There are so many gorgeous wineries to visit in Styria; you really cannot go wrong. We were there in the winter season, so things were certainly a bit quieter, but as our friends told us at Restaurant Broadmoar - people here are almost always willing to talk about and share their wines year round… just send them an email or a message on social media, and people tend to be thrilled to open their doors. Some wineries we wanted to visit and were told about often and will certainly see next time we are in town include Weingut und Buschenschenk Albert, Weingut Lackner-Tinnacher, Strohmeier, WeingutMuster, Weingut Werlitsch… and of course, Meinklang.

Notes: We easily drove to Styria from Graz, where we grabbed a Sixt rental car for about $40/day. Highly recommend this option for transportation, as you will want to be mobile! Europeans also care a LOT about making sure rental cars have adequate snow tires - so every car comes with studded tires in the winter. No worries there! Just be prepared to drive manual if you don’t otherwise specify :)

AMSTERDAM:

Stay: Eric Vokel Amsterdam Suites are our favorite place to stay aside from the Hoxton, which has been a favorite for years. We have recently been leaning towards more of apartment style stays, especially for longer trips where we want to feel some semblance of home, and Eric Vokel is exactly that, except better, because they help with breakfast, laundry needs, and have a front desk concierge who is ready and willing to help with any immediate needs. Not to mention they are literally two doors down from our favorite restaurant in the city, Choux. Eric Vokel can do no wrong!

View from our room terrace at Eric Vokel

Breakfast at Eric Vokel Amsterdam suites

Eat/Drink: Our favorite restaurant in town is without a doubt Choux, however there are many other honorable mentions. De Kas is a truly unique experience, as one of the pioneers of farm to table, though be sure to book well in advance. Hinata Ramen is our favorite cozy no-fuss ramen spot. Winkel43 is undeniably the best apple pie you’ll ever have in your life.

Do: Take a stroll in any of the parks. Westerpark and Vondelpark are our favorites. Also, a very niche off the beaten path experience known to locals but less so to tourists is a meal out at Vuurtorneiland, an old war bunker. You take a boat out from central Amsteram to a little island (thus the name Vuurtorneiland) and are treated to an absolutely delightful meal. This books up many months in advance so be sure to get your reservations in early, but it’s a special and worthwhile experience. In recent years, they have even opened up accommodations on the island, too, for those interested in staying!

Go eat bitterballen. Try a Brouwerij beer. Stroll the streets. Go to Foodhallen. We have a few other posts about best brown cafes in Amsterdam and other tips for staying like a local, so go click on those for a deeper dive!

Here’s our day by day itinerary for anyone desiring to follow similar / get a cadence of timing for each city:

Day 1-4 Oslo

(fly from Oslo to CPH)

Day 5-11 Copenhagen

(fly from CPH to Budapest)

Day 12-14 Budapest

(train from Budapest to Graz)

Day 15-17 Graz

(rent car and drive to Austrian alps)

Day 17-19 Austrian Alps

(drive from Austrian Alps to Styria via stops in Slovenia)

Day 19-21 Austria Styrian wine country

(fly to Amsterdam)

Day 21-23 Amsterdam

(fly home)

A Few Days in Mexico: the Cliff Notes on CDMX, Puerto Escondido, and the Mexican Volcanoes

April 21, 2024 Laura Lisowski

Where to stay: any of the Viadora properties are top notch; we stayed at Casa Cleo in Condesa and hope to visit the XOMA property in Roma the next time around! The best part about the Viadora properties is that it allows you to feel like you are living like a local. You’re greeted by a friendly face, have a fully functional kitchen, and the best way I can describe it as is that it “feels like home”. We greatly enjoyed sitting on the balcony in the mornings listening to the birds chirp whilst eating our healthy fresh fruits and muesli breakfast. There’s also a lot to be said for the ‘comfort’ factor of feeling safe in a big city away from home… Viadora offers all of this and then some, with a 24/7 front staff and doorman to ensure you enter/exit the property well. And honestly, another sleeper factor? Air conditioning. I’ve stayed in other hotels in CDMX on hot weeks of the year and their air conditioning was minimal at best… this is the real deal, and I slept like a (cool) baby every single night.

Other favorite stays are Ryo Kan, Habita Hotel, Hotel Carlota, The Wild Oscar, and Casa Pani.

Where to eat: Masala y Maiz and Meroma are consistently at the top of my list. Pujol is the classic recommendation for a top notch meal, but requires reservations many months in advance. Others to have on your radar are: Contramar, Tr3s, Havre77, Quintonil, Rosetta (their bakery is great for breakfast as well!), Cicatriz, Expendio de Maiz, Por siempra vegana, Comedor Jacinta, and lastly La Pitahaya Vegana for some incredible veggie tacos. Note that it is best to book ahead at all of these on OpenTable as they do fill up fast and many do not take walk ins!

Incredible natural wines at Masala y Maiz

And don’t forget to chase down a paleta or 2 or 10! My favorites are consistently the pistachio and oreo ones! Just type into Google ‘paleta near me’ and it won’t let you down. I speak from experience whenever the sweet tooth hits!

One of my favorite dining experiences in CDMX was also a secret one: Esquina Comun is a pop up lunch, where you have to message them for location right before. It is so very worth it, and an incredible experience! It was even featured in the NYTimes!

Lastly, a very special mention goes to LagoAlgo, which is a cultural center/restaurant posted up on a lake not too far from the Chapultepec Castle. This place boasts huge floor to ceiling windows and some of the most memorable chilaquiles we enjoyed on our trip. Very instagrammable, and a great little escape from the hustle and bustle of the city!

Where to drink: Loup Wine bar, Baltra Bar (one of the world’s best bars in 2023!), Parker and Lenox (jazz!), Handshake Bar. But honestly you can get a really great glass of wine or margarita at most places around town. It is Mexico, after all.

Bookstores: Be sure to check out all of the many bookstores in CDMX, or cafebrerias - they are fantastic in that bookstores commonly act as a ‘third place’ in CDMX so most have a full service cafe/restaurant in them and are a great place to open a laptop or a book and just spend an afternoonn. My favorites: Cafebreria El Pendulo, Biblioteca Vasconcelos, Libreria Porrua, Casa Bosques, and Under the Volcano Books in Condesa.

Some other cool stuff to see: Chapultepec Castle, Mooni art gallery, Esrawe studio, Mercado el 100, Arca Tierra, Decada, Tetetlan Cafe, Museo Tamayo.

Honorable mentions for weekend trips out of Mexico City of you get a chance/have the time: San Miguel de Allende (and stop in wine country along the way! You can either hire a car, or work with a tour company) and Valle de Bravo (book a stay at La Casa Rodavento and do not look back… it is incredible!)

And of course if you are *really* eager like yours truly, you can always climb the Mexican Volcanoes, with the grand finale as Pico de Orizaba! I wrote more about that trip here - and be sure to always hire a guide. I recommend Climbing the Seven Summits, always!

And if you are willing to hop on a quick plane ride from CDMX, do not sleep on surfer paradise Puerto Escondido! Stay at Casa TO, and explore all that the incredible town has to offer. But most importantly, take the serenity here as an excuse to relax!

Excellent restaurants in PE include: Atarraya, Glou Glou, Spirulina, Espadin Restaurant, Fauna Coffee & Resto, Cocofam, Chicama, Sativa, Mar Y Sol, Punta Vida, Bello Puerto, Cafe Losodeli.

Fresh squeezed juices abound in Puerto Escondido

Strolling the streets of Puerto Escondido

One Week in Finland: Best of Lapland in Winter

December 8, 2019 Laura Lisowski

My mission on this trip was to try and cover as much ground as possible, not knowing when I would ever be in Lapland again (spoiler alert: it was so fantastic that I will absolutely be going back sooner rather than later). I started with a city escape in Helsinki, as I had business to do there for my day job & it was the easiest place to fly into from Amsterdam. After a couple of days immersed in city life, I was ready to head north and hopped on a quick FinnAir flight to Rovaniemi. It was in Rovaniemi that the true journey began… note that I’ve included a map of my journey at the very bottom of this guide for inquiring minds who would like to replicate my path. Without further ado…

HELSINKI

Where to Stay:

Hotel Katajanokka ($): a converted prison from 1837, found on an island in central Helsinki

Two former prison cells combined into one hotel room at Hotel Katajanokka

Former isolation cell in basement of Hotel Katajanokka

Where to Eat:

Green Hippo Cafe (vegan!), OHMYGOODNESS (veg friendly), Cargo Coffee & Vegetarian Food, Cafe Regatta, Apero, Young Hearts, Bon Temps Cafe, Natura, Cafe Succes (get the cinnamon bun!), El Fant, Ravintola Kolmon3n, Fafa’s, Yes Yes Yes!

Things to Do:

Helsinki is buzzing, as it is the third largest Nordic city and well known as a city of architecture. As one of Europe's youngest capitals, it was first shaped by Neoclassical architecture and later became the world's largest concentration of Jugendstil buildings and National Romanticism. Pay attention and you’ll observe many elements of this throughout the city.

Visit the Temppeliaukion Church, a church built into a rock face
Check out the plethora of local markets, including Market Square
Visit Stockmann, the main department store downtown
Spend an afternoon in one of Helsinki’s public saunas (highly recommend Löyly)
Take a day trip to Porvoo, the second oldest town in Finland
Try to hunt down and taste as many of the traditional Finnish foods as you can

ROVANIEMI

Where to Stay:

Arctic Treehouse Hotel ($$$): luxury accommodations located in the heart of Lapland, providing a unique blend of luxury comfort in the heart of Arctic nature

arctic treehouse hotel rovaniemi finland

Where to Eat:

Rakas Restaurant (on site at Arctic Treehouse Hotel), Monte Rosa (veg friendly!), Santa’s Salmon Place (a must!), Arctic Restaurant, Sky Kitchen & View, Coffee House, Restaurant Nili, Bull Bar & Grill, Amarillo, Restaurant HIMO

Things to Do:

Walk around downtown Rovaniemi
Spend a day at Santa Claus Village, walk across the Arctic Circle, down Arctic Boulevard
Visit Arktikum museum & science center, which is also an architectural delight
Check out Thrift stores: Varastotien Kirpputori, Tuhattori, and the Vintikki flea market

PYHA / LUOSTO

Where to Stay:

Pyhä Linna Apartments ($$): high standard accommodations in the heart of Pyhä Ski Resort, 100 meters from Hotel Pyhätunturi and the main slopes; a great way to feel like you are at ‘home’ while traveling

Pyhä Igloos ($$$): only in the second season (started in 2019), these igloos create a sense of wonder and bewilderment as you sleep under the stars and adjoining ski slopes; if you are lucky, watch the Northern Lights dance above the Arctic Circle from your electric adjustable bed

Where to Eat:

Colorado Bar & Grill, Ravintola Huttuhippu, Ravintola Tsokka, Cafe Loimu, Ravintola Punakettu

Things to Do:

Visit the Amethyst mine, snowmobile or Fat Bike back to Luosto
Go ice climbing or take an arctic survival skills workshop with Bliss Adventure
Visit a souvenir shop, of which there are many
Horseback riding at Lucky Ranch
Go wilderness skiing in Pyhä-Luosto National Park
Hit the slopes at Pyhä-Luosto National Park
Visit the reindeer and go on a safari at Kopara Reindeer Park
Husky safari and farm visit with Arctic Husky Farm

INARI

Where to Stay:

Jávri Lodge ($$$): stay at one of the most unique all inclusive lodge environments you could ever experience; a truly unparalleled adults-only immersive adventure; newly converted and award-winning architectural wonder which was the former vacation lodge of Finland’s longest-standing president. And better yet: it’s exclusive; only 26 guests at a time can stay here, so you feel like you’re truly partaking in a luxury, *experience* versus simply staying at another hotel.

Though I drove to Jávri Lodge on this particular trip, it is worth noting that there are direct flights via FinnAir from London Gatwick to Ivalo Airport, which make for a very easy commute from mainland Europe up to Lapland. Jávri can arrange transport from Ivalo to the Lodge (a mere 20 minute ride), so you need not even rent a car.

Where to Eat:

Three delicious and decadent meals a day are included in a stay at Jávri. You’ll find yourself struggling to decide which meal to indulge in the most as they are all just that good. All food is brought in from very local sources (they have a personal relationship with the fishermen duo who provide fresh fish to them every week, depending on what they’ve been able to catch) and the menu is built around the availability of the best local delicacies. A truly sustainable, personal and delicious way to build a menu.

Things to Do:

Jávri is a Nat Geo recognized lodge for a reason; their very helpful staff-who-feel-like-family coordinate all activities as part of the package for visiting guests. This takes the burden off of the guest to plan their own activities; instead, offering a plethora of daily options for each visitor to choose from, making for an effortless visit. But in case you run out, or simply want to take an afternoon off… it’s worth noting that the town of Saariselka is just a stone’s throw away and boasts an adorable wintry scene complete with restaurants, tourist shops, and activities.

Jávri provides all winter or activity gear for its guests, and their gear is best-in-class. They’ve paid special attention to ensure each guest will be safe, warm, and well-fitted, with the best brands on offer (Salomon, Fjallraven, etc.) Amongst the activity options provided are: husky safari, reindeer safari, snowmobiling (you can even snowmobile right to the border of Russia if you so choose!), foraging, and of course, cross country skiing on tracks which run adjacent to the hotel. Interested in something else in the Inari area? No problem; Jávri will investigate and arrange.

This is also a good opportunity to point out that nothing is more Finnish than a sauna, and lucky for you, Jávri has two on site. Go skiing in the morning and then spend an afternoon indulging in guilt-free relaxation!

MUONIO/TORASSIEPPI

Where to Stay:

Hotel Harriniva ($$): Hotel Harriniva is half an hour’s drive from the Pallas-Ylläs National Park and a kilometre from the Finnish/Swedish border and feels a bit like going to summer camp in the winter time; they have their own on-site restaurant with a delicious buffet style breakfast, lunch and dinner and activities to fill every hour of the day if you so choose. Also worth noting that there is a shuttle service to and from Kittilä Airport, an hour’s drive away.

Aurora Domes Luxury Camping ($$$): Adjoined to the Hotel Harriniva are four luxury aurora domes, fit for the most adventurous traveler. The insulated domes are situated by the bank of lake Jeris and are adorned with Lappish themed decoration, with transparent walls ensuring the best possible views of the starlit sky and the ever elusive Northern Lights over the frozen lake. A once-in-a-lifetime experience and an absolute must-do while in Lapland.

Front entrance facilities at Harriniva in Muonio

Where to Eat:

Meals are included in a stay at Harriniva. Head to the main building and eat local fish, reindeer, or pastries to your heart’s delight. No need to leave the premises as everything you might need is right on site.

If you are itching for an outing, Levi Finland, a very famous ski resort town, is about a 40 minute drive away and boasts quite a few fancy restaurants and hotels. But I would encourage you to instead stay on site at Harriniva and make the most of every moment you are there; you won’t regret it.

Things to Do:

Like summer camp, Harriniva coordinates all activities as part of the package for visiting guests. Activities include cross country skiing, husky sled rides, canoeing and quad biking. Arctic Sauna World, located on the shore of Lake Jeris, is also a joy to partake in if it is available while you are there. Pick your poison!

Roadtrip Map:

Additional Resources:

https://www.myhelsinki.fi/en/eat-and-drink/restaurants/foodie-tour-of-helsinki-market-halls-open-air-markets-and-delicatessens

https://www.visitfinland.com/article/helsinki-goes-vegan/

https://www.visitfinland.com/article/iconic-finnish-foods-of-all-time/

https://visitlaplandtours.fi/blog-article/traditional-finnish-cuisine-at-a-glance/

https://olo-ravintola.fi/en/olo-restaurant/#_olo-dinner

https://www.businessfinland.fi/en/do-business-with-finland/explore-finland/food-drinks/food-from-finland-in-brief/

https://www.visitfinland.com/article/guilt-free-shopping-in-finland/

https://www.visitfinland.com/article/wild-food-of-finland/

https://droneandslr.com/travel-blog/finland/lapland-northern-lights-guide/

https://hammockstories.blog/vegan-restaurant-helsinki/

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g189915-zfz10697-Lapland.html

https://www.spottedbylocals.com/helsinki/category/activity/restaurants/page/3/

helsinki vintage postcards market square

Regional Spotlight: An Urban Denver Adventure & Jackson Hole Escape

November 21, 2018 Laura Lisowski

The entire Colorado and Wyoming region has so much to offer – you could spend weeks just eating your way through Denver, or bounce to one of hundreds of mountain adventures within hours. If I do my job correctly, this guide will help you better understand what each has to offer and what spots to hit whether you have a few days or a few weeks in the Denver / Jackson Hole regions.

My initial draw to Denver for this trip was Outdoor Retailer, held at the city convention center. I make a point at least once every couple of years of getting out to Outdoor Retailer, especially now that it has moved from Salt Lake City to Denver, i.e. the mecca of weekend mountain adventures. For this particular trip, I wanted to also use the opportunity to do some city hopping around Denver, checking out the hotel, art, and brewery scene, followed by a long weekend getaway in Jackson Hole, easily one of my favorite places in the world (having been to the Alps, Dolomites, Andes, etc, Jackson Hole still remains towards the top of the list!)

Importantly, this trip took place during winter Outdoor Retailer in early November, which to Denver urbanites and Jackson Hole skiiers is considered the “off-season,” i.e. the season of waiting patiently for that first big snowfall which officially signals winter sports season. But to me, this shoulder season should very much be considered ‘on’ season for tourists for a number of reasons: 1) there are less crowds, 2) the weather hasn’t turned for the worse yet (& is actually quite nice given the region’s reputation for having way more sunny days than not!), 3) lower hotel prices given the lower volume of traffic, 4) the roads are not yet iced over, making road trips and outdoor adventures easy and safe.

DENVER:

PLACES TO STAY:

Hilton Denver City Center hosted me on this trip, and I would stay there again 10 times out of 10. They were within walking distance of everything I wanted to see/do, super useful in terms of concierge/front desk services, had a kick-butt breakfast, and have an incredible and diverse dinner offering at Prospect’s Urban Kitchen & Bar located conveniently on the lower level of the hotel. Not to mention, the hotel itself is completely affordable for the average traveler! An ideal spot for really anyone: business travelers, individuals, or families.

Another often overlooked but important qualifier is that a hotel be a place where you feel comfortable leaving bags if needed, as I did. I had no worries in my mind about leaving all of my luggage there for 3 days while on another leg of my trip, and that peace of mind was worth every penny of my stay!

Whatever you do, I would highly recommend finding a hotel in the city center or near union station. You’ll find that a hotel in either location is reliable, convenient, and will have all of the amenities you could ever want. Plus, being near highways (as the city center ones are) to get in and out on an adventure is another major perk. My friend who came from Golden to pick me up was able to get in and out of the city in a matter of minutes. Airport rides by Uber were also effortless. Win win.

AirBnB is also a good option in Denver, with many cute and well-located properties available. I would stay either near Union Station or in Capitol Hill.

FOOD:

Barcelona Wine Bar RiNo (half of all bottles of wine on Sundays - no brainer)
Cart Driver
The Rotary at Avanti
Illegal Pete’s
Liberati Denver
Sera’s Ramen Enclave
Cru Wine Bar
The Wolf’s Tailor
Cherry Cricket
Potager
Little Owl Coffee
LaMar’s Donuts
Truffle Table
La Cour Denver’s Art Bar
Vegetarian Restaurants: Root Down, True Food Kitchen, WaterCourse Foods

DRINKS:

Mockery Brewery
Our Mutual Friend Brewing
Improper City (food truck park, beer garden, live music)
Denver Distillery (what it sounds like: craft distillery & tasting room)

ACTIVITIES:

Go to the Denver Central Market
Hit up some of the Farmer’s markets - there are a few which run throughout the year
Walk through the Art District Santa Fe
Catch a Denver Broncos NFL game

JACKSON HOLE:

PLACES TO STAY:

We stayed at two different hotels, which were completely different but each had their own unique assets, depending on what you are looking for.

Let’s break them each down, shall we?

HOTEL JACKSON

Always a sucker for a place with a bit of history, I fully appreciated that this hotel was started as a passion project of the Darwiche family, as Jim Darwiche and his wife Safaa spent many decades developing numerous businesses in Jackson and fell in love with the town and it’s heritage before deciding to start the new Hotel Jackson. I say “new” because the original Hotel Jackson was one of the first five buildings that made up the town of Jackson in the early 1900s, and this hotel being so aptly named is a nod to history.

As for hospitality, this absolutely gorgeous, rustic, high-end hotel leaves no detail overlooked. They’ve got luxury dialed in: the front desk runs like a well-oiled machine, and when there, you truly feel as though you have nothing left to do but sit back and R E L A X and let them do the rest.

We noticed lots of little details, from the attentiveness of the staff, to the warm cookies, coffee/tea & adventure books available in the lobby, to the soothing music and bottle of water made available as part of the turn down service at night. We felt very well looked after here. Not to mention, the lodgy western flair makes you feel warm and cozy, without isolating you from the mountains right outside the front door. Hotel Jackson successfully brings the outside in.

A final perk: Hotel Jackson boasts one of the best restaurants in Jackson Hole, it’s very own on-site Lebanese and Mediterranean fusion restaurant called FIGS, which I’d certainly recommend you at least stop at for a dinner. But be careful setting up too close to the restaurant’s two story fireplace: you may never end up wanting to leave.

Importantly, Hotel Jackson is also the first LEED-certified hotel in Jackson Hole, so is ahead of the curve.

ANVIL HOTEL

Living in Europe has given me a real affinity for hotels that have that lodge meets ultra modern/hip feel. The lobby of the 49-room Anvil Hotel feels almost as though you’ve been dropped into a Huckberry catalogue. Fancy coffees are available for purchase, and the common area fireplace invites you to waste your day away cozied up in front of it. I have to be honest: I could’ve sat in their lobby and ignored the mountains outside all day long. Yes, it is THAT cozy and inviting.

Another perk: they have lots of fun trendy gear (including sunglasses from my friends over at Sunski!) and the entire hotel’s aesthetic just screams PENDLETON! Don’t forget to set aside some money to purchase a takeaway from their lobby store... if you're anything like me, you’ll want everything in there.

This hotel is a steal at a price point starting in the low 100’s, especially in shoulder season. What we loved most about the rooms was that they felt upscale and hip, but also just cozy/small enough that you almost believed you were in a cabin in the woods. The room got cooler at night (by choice, we could’ve turned on the heater, but opted not to), and we loved bundling up under the winter-ready heavy wool blankets adorning each bed. It is safe to say that Anvil encouraged us to fully embrace the cabin feels.

Interestingly, Anvil also has a fun history. Bloomberg recently quite aptly called it “the Wild West’s Dude Ranch for Hipsters”. The hotel has been around a long time (since the 1950’s, when it was considered more of a ‘motel’) and first caught the attention of now-owner hotelier Erik Warner in the mid-90’s. Early in his hospitality career, Warner worked the front desk at the “old” Anvil Hotel, and knew then that it could become something special. But it wasn’t until years later, on a visit back to Jackson Hole in 2014, that he discovered it’s current owners were toying with the idea of selling it. Armed with a couple decades of experience in the hospitality industry, and many successful projects under his belt, the time was finally right. Warner made a successful sales pitch and the Anvil Hotel became his. The entire hotel was gutted to become what it has become today. I suppose the combination of city hotelier flare + traditional Jackson Hole rustic is what makes this place feel so special.

FOOD:

Bin22 (easily our favorite this trip, we kept going back)
Gun Barrel
FIGS (in Hotel Jackson)
Local
Hatch
The Kitchen
Glorietta (on-property restaurant at Anvil Hotel)
The Bird
Cowboy Coffee
Persephone Bakery (best sit down breakfast)
Pearl Street Bagels (best cheap, delicious breakfast)

DRINKS:

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (a classic spot, but they are under new ownership as of early 2018 and making a push to bring in great bands… this place gets better every year)
Snake River Brewery (also excellent for bar food)
Mangy Moose Restaurant & Saloon

SHOPS:

Stop into Spirit and Spice, try some of the many options on tap, and pick up some gifts for friends/family. They will ship!

ACTIVITIES:

FLY JACKSON HOLE AERIAL FLIGHT

My absolute biggest off-season activity recommendation for Jackson, if your wallet allows (and even if it doesn’t, because it’s absolutely worth the splurge), is to take in aerial views of the region with Fly Jackson Hole. They’ve been around for about 4 years as of 2018, and their operation is based right at the airport, so you can easily get to them – no excuses. What better way to see absolutely everything Jackson Hole has to offer than to see it all in one epic full swoop?

We spent a few hours with the pilots, Pete (owner) and Dave, and both are two of the nicest, most charismatic folks you could ever meet. You get the sense that they really love what they do, love and take pride in Jackson, and simply feel it is their obligation/honor to show other people the place they love so much.

Importantly, both absolutely know their stuff when it comes to flying, as they have over 50 years of charter flying experience between the two of them. This is an airplane ride you don’t feel even the slightest bit worried or on edge about, which allows you to focus all of your energy on the beauty all around you.

Fly Jackson Hole has 2 planes in their fleet: a Cessna 207 8-seater and a Cessna 172XP. You can’t go wrong with either – it’s more a matter of how many people you’ve got with you.

We opted for their Alpenglow Tour, which meant we had 90 minutes in the skies before, during and after sunset. The tour allowed us to see Jackson and surrounding areas by day, but then get over to the other side of the Tetons to capture photos of that coveted dewey pink just sneaking it’s way across the mountains before the day slipped into night. The best surprise for us was just how much our pilot Dave knew about the region – I’ve been coming to Jackson Hole for years, and felt like I learned more about the entire area in those 90 minutes than I had in a decade. The flight cost was worth the download on local history and knowledge in itself!

If you have any doubts about booking a trip, don’t. Just do it!

Now that we have covered that, here are other off-season activities (check on these before you go, as some are closed at certain points depending on exact timing):

DRIVING / HIKING AROUND THE PARK

I can’t stress enough: the best way to experience Jackson is to get a rental car (even better if it’s 4WD or a fun adventure vehicle) and GO!!! To optimize your time in the region and see everything the park has to offer, you’ll want to be able to get around on your own without relying on hotel shuttles which will only take you to the airport/ski slopes and back. Here are a few must-sees in the park:

Drive to Moulton Barn at Mormon Row
Check out the Elk Refuge
Hike to Taggart Lake
Visit Granite Hot Springs
Visit Kelly Warm Springs
Drive to Jenny Lake, Jackson Lake, Signal Mountain Lodge
Take the ski lift to the top at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Depending on the time of year, there is plenty of hiking. We were there in early November, which meant most of the trails were too snowy/icy, but if you go in even October, plenty of trails are still accessible.

*BONUS: Because I attended Outdoor Retailer in Winter 2018, I wanted to share some photos / takeaways from the event for anyone interested in attending a future show.

OUTDOOR RETAILER:

The general consensus especially now that they have split the winter show into two is that it is a much slower show, which actually was nice. It allows people to take a bit more time to chat and feel a little less crunched on time/appointments. At the 2018 November Winter show, I had a few important takeaways worth sharing around the show and trends across the industry as a whole:

I’ve been really excited to see how many panels/conversations are being had around innovation in an industry that has been slow to change. We are entering a new era.
Sustainability, transparency and a re-examined supply chain continue to be current and relevant issues across many industries - & it definitely applies here. Consumers are getting smarter & want to know what’s in their products, who’s making them, and where they’re coming from.
Retail and E-commerce as we know it are changing forever, thanks to behemoths like Amazon. Best for retailers to work with it, not against it.
There is still so much opportunity in the adventure foods landscape - particularly for companies that do things to stand out in a crowded market (i.e. like RXBar). Clif Bar / Larabar, etc. remain dominant players but are ripe for disruption. Bonus pts for clean labels, & fresh/natural trumps long shelf life. A newly discovered favorite brand adhering to this ethos was Four Points Bar. Check them out!
The US & Rest of World operate very independently. Regulations make it hard for brands to export to Europe. Lots of room to improve / work through the regulatory systems in order to take brands GLOBAL.
There’s a real buzz in this industry about using their retail platforms for good to effect real change in the US. Brands are investing a lot of time/resources/marketing $ into causes around public lands & its important work - & is being heard.

DISCLOSURE: This trip was sponsored or partially sponsored by Hilton City Center Hotel, Hotel Jackson, Anvil Hotel and Fly Jackson Hole. I thank each for their warm hospitality and partnership.