One Week in Finland: Best of Lapland in Winter

My mission on this trip was to try and cover as much ground as possible, not knowing when I would ever be in Lapland again (spoiler alert: it was so fantastic that I will absolutely be going back sooner rather than later). I started with a city escape in Helsinki, as I had business to do there for my day job & it was the easiest place to fly into from Amsterdam. After a couple of days immersed in city life, I was ready to head north and hopped on a quick FinnAir flight to Rovaniemi. It was in Rovaniemi that the true journey began… note that I’ve included a map of my journey at the very bottom of this guide for inquiring minds who would like to replicate my path. Without further ado…

HELSINKI

Where to Stay:

Hotel Katajanokka ($): a converted prison from 1837, found on an island in central Helsinki

Where to Eat:

Green Hippo Cafe (vegan!), OHMYGOODNESS (veg friendly), Cargo Coffee & Vegetarian Food, Cafe Regatta, Apero, Young Hearts, Bon Temps Cafe, Natura, Cafe Succes (get the cinnamon bun!), El Fant, Ravintola Kolmon3n, Fafa’s, Yes Yes Yes!

Things to Do:

Helsinki is buzzing, as it is the third largest Nordic city and well known as a city of architecture. As one of Europe's youngest capitals, it was first shaped by Neoclassical architecture and later became the world's largest concentration of Jugendstil buildings and National Romanticism. Pay attention and you’ll observe many elements of this throughout the city.

Visit the Temppeliaukion Church, a church built into a rock face
Check out the plethora of local markets, including Market Square
Visit Stockmann, the main department store downtown
Spend an afternoon in one of Helsinki’s public saunas (highly recommend Löyly)
Take a day trip to Porvoo, the second oldest town in Finland
Try to hunt down and taste as many of the traditional Finnish foods as you can

ROVANIEMI

Where to Stay:

Arctic Treehouse Hotel ($$$): luxury accommodations located in the heart of Lapland, providing a unique blend of luxury comfort in the heart of Arctic nature

arctic treehouse hotel rovaniemi finland

Where to Eat:

Rakas Restaurant (on site at Arctic Treehouse Hotel), Monte Rosa (veg friendly!), Santa’s Salmon Place (a must!), Arctic Restaurant, Sky Kitchen & View, Coffee House, Restaurant Nili, Bull Bar & Grill, Amarillo, Restaurant HIMO

Things to Do:

Walk around downtown Rovaniemi
Spend a day at Santa Claus Village, walk across the Arctic Circle, down Arctic Boulevard
Visit Arktikum museum & science center, which is also an architectural delight
Check out Thrift stores: Varastotien Kirpputori, Tuhattori, and the Vintikki flea market

PYHA / LUOSTO

Where to Stay:

Pyhä Linna Apartments ($$): high standard accommodations in the heart of Pyhä Ski Resort, 100 meters from Hotel Pyhätunturi and the main slopes; a great way to feel like you are at ‘home’ while traveling

Pyhä Igloos ($$$): only in the second season (started in 2019), these igloos create a sense of wonder and bewilderment as you sleep under the stars and adjoining ski slopes; if you are lucky, watch the Northern Lights dance above the Arctic Circle from your electric adjustable bed

Where to Eat:

Colorado Bar & Grill, Ravintola Huttuhippu, Ravintola Tsokka, Cafe Loimu, Ravintola Punakettu

Things to Do:

Visit the Amethyst mine, snowmobile or Fat Bike back to Luosto
Go ice climbing or take an arctic survival skills workshop with Bliss Adventure
Visit a souvenir shop, of which there are many
Horseback riding at Lucky Ranch
Go wilderness skiing in Pyhä-Luosto National Park
Hit the slopes at Pyhä-Luosto National Park
Visit the reindeer and go on a safari at Kopara Reindeer Park
Husky safari and farm visit with Arctic Husky Farm

INARI

Where to Stay:

Jávri Lodge ($$$): stay at one of the most unique all inclusive lodge environments you could ever experience; a truly unparalleled adults-only immersive adventure; newly converted and award-winning architectural wonder which was the former vacation lodge of Finland’s longest-standing president. And better yet: it’s exclusive; only 26 guests at a time can stay here, so you feel like you’re truly partaking in a luxury, *experience* versus simply staying at another hotel.

Though I drove to Jávri Lodge on this particular trip, it is worth noting that there are direct flights via FinnAir from London Gatwick to Ivalo Airport, which make for a very easy commute from mainland Europe up to Lapland. Jávri can arrange transport from Ivalo to the Lodge (a mere 20 minute ride), so you need not even rent a car.

Where to Eat:

Three delicious and decadent meals a day are included in a stay at Jávri. You’ll find yourself struggling to decide which meal to indulge in the most as they are all just that good. All food is brought in from very local sources (they have a personal relationship with the fishermen duo who provide fresh fish to them every week, depending on what they’ve been able to catch) and the menu is built around the availability of the best local delicacies. A truly sustainable, personal and delicious way to build a menu.

Things to Do:

Jávri is a Nat Geo recognized lodge for a reason; their very helpful staff-who-feel-like-family coordinate all activities as part of the package for visiting guests. This takes the burden off of the guest to plan their own activities; instead, offering a plethora of daily options for each visitor to choose from, making for an effortless visit. But in case you run out, or simply want to take an afternoon off… it’s worth noting that the town of Saariselka is just a stone’s throw away and boasts an adorable wintry scene complete with restaurants, tourist shops, and activities.

Jávri provides all winter or activity gear for its guests, and their gear is best-in-class. They’ve paid special attention to ensure each guest will be safe, warm, and well-fitted, with the best brands on offer (Salomon, Fjallraven, etc.) Amongst the activity options provided are: husky safari, reindeer safari, snowmobiling (you can even snowmobile right to the border of Russia if you so choose!), foraging, and of course, cross country skiing on tracks which run adjacent to the hotel. Interested in something else in the Inari area? No problem; Jávri will investigate and arrange.

This is also a good opportunity to point out that nothing is more Finnish than a sauna, and lucky for you, Jávri has two on site. Go skiing in the morning and then spend an afternoon indulging in guilt-free relaxation!

MUONIO/TORASSIEPPI

Where to Stay:

Hotel Harriniva ($$): Hotel Harriniva is half an hour’s drive from the Pallas-Ylläs National Park and a kilometre from the Finnish/Swedish border and feels a bit like going to summer camp in the winter time; they have their own on-site restaurant with a delicious buffet style breakfast, lunch and dinner and activities to fill every hour of the day if you so choose. Also worth noting that there is a shuttle service to and from Kittilä Airport, an hour’s drive away.

Aurora Domes Luxury Camping ($$$): Adjoined to the Hotel Harriniva are four luxury aurora domes, fit for the most adventurous traveler. The insulated domes are situated by the bank of lake Jeris and are adorned with Lappish themed decoration, with transparent walls ensuring the best possible views of the starlit sky and the ever elusive Northern Lights over the frozen lake. A once-in-a-lifetime experience and an absolute must-do while in Lapland.

Front entrance facilities at Harriniva in Muonio

Where to Eat:

Meals are included in a stay at Harriniva. Head to the main building and eat local fish, reindeer, or pastries to your heart’s delight. No need to leave the premises as everything you might need is right on site.

If you are itching for an outing, Levi Finland, a very famous ski resort town, is about a 40 minute drive away and boasts quite a few fancy restaurants and hotels. But I would encourage you to instead stay on site at Harriniva and make the most of every moment you are there; you won’t regret it.

Things to Do:

Like summer camp, Harriniva coordinates all activities as part of the package for visiting guests. Activities include cross country skiing, husky sled rides, canoeing and quad biking. Arctic Sauna World, located on the shore of Lake Jeris, is also a joy to partake in if it is available while you are there. Pick your poison!

Roadtrip Map: