lighthouse — Travel Guides

Living in the Pacific Northwest, we are often told that we must visit Maine for all of the similar attractions - oysters, lighthouses, excellent culinary experiences, ocean air, sand between the toes. Copy paste everything we love about living in the Seattle area and then add a few more lobster shacks, and you’ve got yourself another idyllic place to visit in Maine.

With our affinity for all of the things we knew Maine had to offer, we suspected that a few day trip wouldn’t suffice. Accordingly, we made sure to set aside some time to really feel our way through the place.

We opted to stay somewhat Midcoast Maine and then head inland where we could also get a taste of some of the mountains and dip our toes into the White Mountains of New Hampshire, because why not? Heading further north to stay in Acadia and Deer Isle is certainly on the radar for next trip, but we didn’t want to feel rushed.

As I mapped out our itinerary on Google Maps, I realized that our driving route looks similar to the shape of a heart - and fittingly, I think Maine stole mine, so this makes sense. It’s most certainly a place for lovers of all varietals. We’ve also included some of our favorite places to stay in Boston, as we flew in and out of Boston and assume travelers would do the same. We both love Boston almost as much as we love our own home and have found some hidden gems, so make sure to leave yourself a day or two to explore there as well.

Here’s our suggested cadence for hotel stays if you wish to replicate ours:

Day 1-4: Portland
Day 4-7: Camden
Day 7-10: Waterford/Bridgton
Day 10-12: Biddeford
Day 12-14: Boston

This allowed us ample time to get acquainted with each place but also do some exploring of the many towns and lighthouses peppered between, without feeling rushed. It should also be said that by no means are our recommendations exhaustive; they are simply places that we visited and loved and considered top notch. Our hope is that you’ll use these as a starting point and then find your own! Without further ado… we present to you: Midcoast Maine.

Portland

Where to Stay: Canopy Hilton Waterfront

Perched right along Portland’s working waterfront, Canopy by Hilton Portland Waterfront blends sleek, modern design with the maritime character of Maine’s most dynamic city. The hotel is perfectly situated in town steps away from the Old Port’s cobblestone streets, buzzing restaurants and art galleries, while offering sweeping views of Casco Bay from it’s rooftop bar, Luna.

The interiors balance clean, contemporary lines with nautical nods. Rooms are thoughtfully designed for both comfort and style, with oversized windows framing either the harbor or city views - you can’t go wrong with either. Food and drink are prominent, with the Luna Rooftop Bar as a local hotspot (it was buzzing around happy hour, with panoramic views of the bay, so we recommend going then!) and the Salt Yard Cafe + Bar delivering a more casual all-day experience downstairs. I ate the best spiced donut of my life here, so you might want to run not walk and get your hands on one of those, too!

Overall, the Canopy served as a superb design-forward base camp for diving into Portland’s food scene, coastal views, and creative culture.

Where to Eat/Drink: Eventide Oysters (can also be found in Fenway in Boston!), ZuBakery, Sur Lie, Standard Baking Co, Bread & Friends, Central Provisions, Scratch Baking Co, Leeward.

Our absolute favorite spot in Portland was Sur Lie so we thought it was worth expanding a bit. Sur Lie has become a staple of the city’s dining scene with its inventive tapas-style small plates and warm, welcoming energy. The restaurant’s name - French for “on the lees,” a winemaking term, hints at the way food and drink here celebrate depth, layers and the beauty of slowing down to savor food, wine, and more metaphorically, life.

Of course, as the ever curious beings we are, we had to read a bit more about this terminology, and I think it truly does embody the spirit of what Sur Lie is all about so is worth sharing: “On the lees” refers to lees, the dead yeast cells and tiny grape particles that remain in a wine after fermentation. Instead of filtering them out immediately, a winemaker may choose to let the wine rest “sur lie” (on the lees) for weeks, months, or even longer. This process does a few things: adds texture and body, enhances flavor complexity, softens acidity, and provides freshness. It’s no wonder that this was the term used to describe this restaurant, because its food is all of those things!

At the center of Sur Lie is the incredible Krista Cole, a remarkable owner whose vision and persistence helped shape the restaurant into what it is today. Krista is so much more than a restaurateur - she is a passionate advocate for Maine’s food community and a true force in Portland hospitality. Even the way she communicates with enthusiasm is contagious and sets itself apart from the doldrums of every day life. Under her leadership, Sur Lie has blossomed into both a local favorite, and a destination for travelers, blending globally inspired flavors with Maine’s abundant seasonal bounty.

The menu shifts with the seasons, always emphasizing creativity and balance. Think dishes that are playful yet refind, designed for sharing. The cocktail menu and wine list mirror that ethos, offering adventurous pairings to complement each bite.

Old fashioned & Spanish Xarelo at Sur Lie

We started our evening with a bold old fashioned, leaning into more spicy than sweet, setting the tone for a night of surprises. The tuna dish stole the show early, adorned with crispy potatoes and a Fresno chili glaze with umami depth, accompanied by bright tangerine notes that tied it all together. It was so good we talked about recreating it at home. The beet salad that followed was summer on a plate, with an herbaceous punch - spearmint, citrus, and a silken tofu hummus made the whole dish tickle our tongues. For mains, the scallops were perfectly seared, their richness cut by bright pickled fennel, while the halibut dish arrived in a smoky, tomato-based sauce with pickled veggies that lightened every bite. We were thoroughly impressed and delighted by each dish and weren’t let down by a single one. And we even had the chance to spot the owner, Krista and say hello. Bravo, Sur Lie!

What to Do: Go to Cape Elizabeth and hike around the Portland Head light, check out Sherman’s Maine Coast Book Shop (the oldest bookstore in Maine!), venture around the many fun wine shops (our favorite is Maine & Loire!), check out the Old Port District, take the Casco Bay Ferry, walk the Eastern Promenade. Visit the Portland Museum of Art, Bug Light Park, Willard Beach.

Portland Head Lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth

Sherman’s in Portland - Maine’s oldest bookstore

Camden/Rockport/Rockland/Lincolnville

Where to Stay: The Norumbega Inn is our top recommendation for the area.

It was recently awarded the #1 Inn in the continental U.S. by Travel & Leisure and boy, do we see why. Joseph Stearns originally began construction on the great house in 1885. He hired New York architect GB Jennings and spared no expense to furnish it lavishly. The house was completed in 1886 and was dubbed “The Stone Castle by the Sea,” though officially Stearns named it “Norumbega.” Norumbega remained a private residence for a full century and was frequented by presidents and other high flying members of society until it was purchased and converted to an Inn in 1984. The property changed hands several times over the following 40 years, but in 2022 a New York architect by the name of Will Tims set eyes on the Norumbega and the rest was history. Him and his partner Brett took over, immaculately renovated, and currently welcome folks from all over the world to the Norumbega. A visit to Norumbega feels like a privilege.

We had the opportunity to stay in two rooms: the Arundel and the Kensington, both which had their own little nearby private balcony or outdoor space for taking in the views and sea air. We greatly enjoyed a hearty breakfast each morning presented to us by the friendly innkeeper, Abby, and copious amounts of coffee and pastries to jolt us to life. Many an hour was wasted hanging out in one of the decadent wood-paneled great rooms of the house in the evenings, sometimes with one of the many historic Maine books trickled throughout, other times with a glass of wine whilst tickling keys on the piano. The possibilities for entertainment were endless.

Where to Eat/Drink: Albatross, First Fig, Gather, McLoons Lobster Shack, Primo, Long Grain, Nina June, Ada’s Kitchen, Atlantic Baking Co. Other great stops slightly out of Camden area are in Damariscotta and Wiscasset. Some of our favorite stops were Shuck Station in Damariscotta and the In a Silent Way wine bar in Wiscasset.

We were also very excited to check out St. George Pizza, which we’d been following on Instagram for awhile and couldn’t wait to experience ourselves. St. George Pizza stands as a beloved stop, and one where we were pleased to be able to meet up with Maine family to partake in a few hours of catching up between adventures. The design of the family-run spot itself matches the spirit of the food - simple, no-fuss, and welcoming. Think cozy candlelit tables, wood everywhere, and walls with vintage mirrors and hints of nostalgia… the kind of small-town pizzeria aesthetic that feels frozen in time. There’s no pretension; its just a bright, clean space that makes you want to linger… and linger we did.

The menu leans into crowd-pleasers: generously topped pizzas with crispy-chewy abundant crusts and nostalgic ice cream flavors (they had a root beer float on tap the night we were there… when’s the last time you had one of those?!) Portions are hearty (we took home leftovers), prices are friendly, and the service carries the easy warmth you only find in small-town Maine. Plus, the menu had natty wines. Two thumbs up from us!

And a special mention for one of our new favorite restaurants in the country: Aster & Rose in the Youngtown Inn, which is our top recommendation for the area (and we don’t make recommendations lightly!)

It’s a restaurant so good that we are tempted to hold it close to our chest, but it wouldn’t be fair not to share. Behind Aster & Rose is Chef Michael Nowak, who built his reputation on the Cleveland restaurant scene for decades prior to taking his talents to Maine. Over the years, he became known as a chef who cooks with both boldness and restraint, layering flavors in a way that honored ingredients rather than masking them. When his family relocated to Maine, they brought with them deep respect for farmers, craft, and honest cooking.

Aster and Rose is built on the same foundation as his past - farm to table with seasonal vegetables, meats from local farmers, and thoughtful use of smoke and spice. But here, it leans into Maine’s coastal bounty as well. The atmosphere and interiors of the Inn blend modern design with familiar intimacy, warmly lit whilst also allowing the outside in.

We started our meal with an heirloom tomato salad layered with arugula and bright pickled fennel, followed by chicken liver pate on homemade toast that simply floored us. Rich and silky, lifted with pickled blueberries, red onion, spicy honey and pistachios… just pure delight.

For entrees we enjoyed seafood agnolotti, a pillow of handmade pasta in herb butter and roasted pepper brodo that sang of the coastline, followed by a braised pork collar with zucchini and chickpeas, smoky and tender enough to fall apart under a fork.

We paired it with a crisp Rose Brut Nature from Portugal followed by a deep, soulful Mencia from Raul Perez in Spain. And a very special nod to Mary, our waitress who helped us select the immaculate pairings, but more importantly whose enthusiasm and connection to the kitchen made every course come alive.

Gather was also an exceptional experience and worth mentioning as it is owned by the same restauranteur as our favorite Portland restaurant above (Sur Lie). Located in a former Masonic Hall in the heart of Yarmouth, Gather lives up to its name - it invites people to come together over fresh, local food in a space filled with both a buzz and history. With its soaring ceilings, long communal tables and rustic chic design, the restaurant feels both grand and welcoming. Similar to Sur Lie, the menu reflects Krista Cole’s vision for honest, seasonal dining. It’s quite hearty without being heavy, elegant and yet very approachable. We stan a non stuffy, but stuffed belly type of vibe - and this is that.

What to Do: Visit one of the many ceramics studios/shops. Visit the Ararat farm stand in Lincolnville. Check out the incredible Dot’s Market, with fresh sandwiches, baked goods, wine. Visit Camden Hills State Park, Camden Harbor. Check out the Owls Head Light, Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse, Marshall Point Light, Curtis Island Light. Hike Mount Battie, Mount Megunticook, or walk the Beech Hill Preserve. Check out Lincolnville Beach.

Marshall Point Lighthouse on a sunny afternoon

If you’re up for a slightly longer but worthwhile drive from Camden, we also adored visiting Five Islands Lobster Co and the surrounding bay in Georgetown, ME. Five Islands is known as the “prettiest harbor in Maine”, and is truly one of the most picturesque spots anywhere on the coast.

Bridgton/Waterford, Maine

Where to Stay: Waterford Inne and/or Dala House Cabins

The Waterford Inne has a way of grounding you the moment you arrive. Built in 1826 and only passed through three families, it feels more like stepping into someone’s farm sanctuary than checking into a hotel. Upon arrival, the innkeeper Kember greets you with the warmth of an old friend, and Milo the dog makes sure you know whose place it really is, taking over couches, nudging open doors and occasionally tapping on your room at night, asking for permission to enter and hang out.

The steep stairs up to our room aptly named “The Poet” reminded me of narrow climbs in Amsterdam houses - quirky, a little uneven, and full of charm. Kind of like climbing into a little treehouse, a place to escape from the world and tuck into Walt Whitman and CS Lewis with a steaming cup of tea, if only for awhile.

Out back, the barn is now @tallulahs_barn, a farm-to-table restaurant that brings the whole property to life with food that is connected to the land around it. We didn’t have an opportunity to visit on this particular trip but I’ve heard incredible reviews and seen how everything Kember touches is gold, so I have no doubt it is a five star experience.

Afternoons at the Waterford Inne were filled with ridgeline hikes. Nights ended stretched out in the hammock, watching the sky fade and the crickets take over.

I absolutely loved that poetry books were strewn across the tables around the room, waiting to be opened, as it’s in a place like this that one finds they can quiet their mind enough to indulge. Some Walt enjoyed by bedside lamp that stuck with me:

“Here is the efflux of the soul,
The efflux of the soul comes from within through embower’d gates, ever provoking questions,
These yearnings why are they? these thoughts in the darkness why are they?
Why are there men and women that while they are nigh me the sunlight expands my blood?
Why when they leave me do my pennants of joy sink flat and lank?
Why are there trees I never walk under but large and melodious thoughts descend upon me?
(I think they hang there winter and summer on those trees and always drop fruit as I pass;)
What is it I interchange so suddenly with strangers?
What with some driver as I ride on the seat by his side?
What with some fisherman drawing his seine by the shore as I walk by and pause?
What gives me to be free to a woman’s and man’s good-will? what gives them to be free to mine?”

Gorgeous main building at Waterford Inne

The Dala House cabins were an excellent and/or option to the Waterford Inne and I’d highly recommend a visit here as an extension of your serenity in the Waterford/Bridgton area. Dala House feels like stepping into a mini Nordic dreamscape or maybe even a Scandinavian design magazine. Its clean architectural lines, soft pale wood, and a healthy dose of artistic splash with the quirky art adorning the walls makes it the absolute perfect place to silence the mind and slow down. Mornings started slowly, watching white tailed deer bound through the surrounding blueberry fields. As we crawled out of bed, we enjoyed steaming bowls of homemade oatmeal and hot coffee on the front porch. We spent hours reading and catching up on some laptop work during the day, watching natural light pour over our cabin’s timber walls, giving everything a soft golden glow as the day unfolded.

Steaming oatmeal for breakfast in our Dala House kitchen

As late afternoon rolled around, we felt inclined to go out exploring. You’re within reach of classic Midcoast Maine treasures: small towns with antique shops (our favorite was Norway, Maine!), general stores suspended in time, and ridgeline hikes showcasing many of the state’s 6000 lakes. Evenings were enjoyed with local bites, farmers market veggies, and a bottle of natural wine we had picked up somewhere along the way. Just us, a hearty fire, and if you’re lucky… a sky full of stars. Dala House is a place that reminds you that minimalism can actually feel so very abundant. Your senses sharpen to really notice everything: the sounds of the birds in the morning, the creaking of the stairs beneath your feet, the particular way the outdoor shower steam rises into the morning air. The embodiment of a metaphorical (or actual!) exhale.

Where to Eat/Drink: Tallulah’s Barn adjacent to Waterford Inne, Pondicherry House, Standard Gastropub, Mainly Melts, Wook Nook, Kindred Farms, Cafe Nomad, Millies on Main.

What to Do: Hike one of the many ridgeline hikes, including Pleasant Mountain, Bucks Ledge, Hawk Mountain. Check out Keoka Lake. Visit Five Fields Farm, Morning Glory Farm, Oxbow Beer Garden, or any of the local co-ops and farm stands. Stop at Bridgton Books, search the antique shops, walk around Norway, ME. Another highly recommended option is to pivot over to New Hampshire and the White Mountains and drive the Kancamagus Highway. It’s stunning in the fall, and you’ve likely seen it on a car commercial at some point in your life! Bonus points if you can hunt down a cider donut… our favorite was at the White Mountain Cider Co.!

Biddeford/Kennebunkport, Maine

Where to Stay: Lincoln Hotel is our non negotiable favorite option in Biddeford. The Lincoln Hotel was a former 19th century textile mill converted into one of Maine’s most stylish boutique stays. Exposed brick, soaring beams and massive factory windows set the stage, while incredibly posh and contemporary design details like velvet chairs, soft lighting, and curated art make it feel both elevated and warm.

Located in the heart of Biddeford, the hotel anchors a town that is reinventing itself with bakeries, breweries, wine bars and art studios. Staying here means you can wander from your sky high ceilings, loft-styled room to the Saco River waterfront in minutes, or spend evenings dining at the hotel’s on site restaurant, where the menu highlights local ingredients with a creative spin. Their stunning rooftop pool is also open to 10pm, so you’d be a fool not to take advantage.

What makes the Lincoln so special is how it holds tightly onto the soul of the mill itself. You can feel the weight of the history within the walls, and certainly won’t see any white washed brick on its premises. You feel both connected to the past but very squarely in the present with it’s classic yet modern refinement and sophistication. It’s not just a perfect place to sleep, but a destination in itself for a cocktail or a dozen oysters if you’re just passing through.

Where to Eat/Drink: Fika was our absolute favorite pastry destination of the entire Maine trip, so take note! Catface Cafe, Finestkind and the quintessential Palace Diner were also excellent breakfast options. For dinners, we loved Magnus on Water, Sacred Profane, Pacifico, and Chez Rosa. Apero is a great (and very Instagrammable!) spot for a cocktail either before or after your meal!

We also need to expand upon one of the most incredible dining experiences we had in Maine, which was at the very classy Earth at Hidden Pond in Kennebunkport. Tucked into the woodlands of Kennebunkport, Earth at Hidden Pond has long been one of Maine’s most celebrated experiences. When James Beard Award-winning chef Ken Oringer first opened it in 2011, it brought a new level of refinement to the region, marrying farm to table ideals with global creativity. Today, under the continued care of the Hidden Pond resort, it remains a destination where charm and culinary ambition meet. The great room itself feels like you’ve stumbled into a secret fairy light garden oasis, with high ceilings, soaring timber beams, stone fireplaces, and walls and ceilings adorned with birch bark.

We started our evening with tuna carpaccio, a dish that managed to be both delicate and bold, with clean bright flavors. The coconut halibut was a delightful surprise, bringing Thai-like flavors to a traditionally straight forward fish dish. It was perfectly cooked and balanced both richness and brightness. Bravo for creativity! Finally, Earth has become famous for their desserts, especially the signature warm-from-the-oven glazed donuts. Pillowy, golden, and oh so sweet, they carried all the nostalgia of comfort food but when paired with a cheesecake on the side still felt refined.

We really loved this experience as a way to taste Maine’s forests and farms by having them brought to us in a twinkly, romantic setting filled with warmth.

Classic donuts at Earth, cheesecake + creme brulee

What to Do: There are quite a few great vintage shops and flea markets in Biddeford, so we suggest hunting those down. Drive over to the Biddeford Pool and visit the nearby Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge (bird sanctuary) nearby. Visit Fortunes Rocks Beach. Take a cliff walk at University of New England. Walk along the Saco River which connects downtown Biddeford and Saco. Explore the historic Pepperell Mill, now filled with breweries, restaurants, artist studios and small shops.

Boston, Massachusetts

Where to Stay: Housed in one of the city’s most iconic Art Deco skyscrapers, the Dagny Hotel in the Financial District is a love letter to Boston’s history and a design statement all in one. Originally built in the 1920’s as the Batterymarch Building, New England’s first skyscraper, the property has been reimagined as a boutique hotel that honors its roots while offering the comforts of a lux contemporary stay.

The lobby itself speaks to its Art Deco past, with soaring ceilings, geometric details, and rich materials. It’s alive and there is a constant buzz of people both coming and going at all hours of the day. In the rooms, large windows frame city views, a reminder that you’re right in the heart of downtown, just steps away from the Financial District, the Seaport, and Boston Common.

There are multiple dining options on site including a stylish cafe for coffee and pastries and a lively restaurant and bar that attracts both guests and locals. The vibe is less “hotel lobby” and more “neighborhood third place.” What makes this place truly unique is its ability to make history feel current. You can feel the architectural gravitas but a stay at the Dagny is very much a modern, posh experience.

Where to Eat/Drink: Haley Henry and Field and Vine were our two favorite visits this trip. Both boast excellent food (Haley Henry is more snacky, Field and Vine is very much a restaurant), and both have excellent natural wine options. 10/10, you can’t go wrong with either.

Haley Henry is small in size but big in spirit. It’s known for its playful edgy vibe with an expertly curated natural wine list which rivals the best in the world. It feels like stumbling into a cool friend’s loft instead of an actual bar where you have to, ya know, actually spend money. The space itself is intimate and urban with exposed brick walls, moody lighting and an unexpected raw energy. The wine list is adventurous, leaning into natural, biodynamic, smaller producer finds from around the world. The staff, too, are alarmingly nice and involved, eager to guide you towards skin-contact gems, pet nats, under the radar varietals. They know exactly what you mean when you say, “give me the funkiest thing you’ve got.”

Field and Vine is tucked into Union Square and is one of Greater Boston’s best farm-to-table restaurants. I found that it leaned a bit veggie, but by this point in the trip we were looking for that so it suited us well (though may not suit your tastes if you’re looking for a big meaty dish to fulfill your day’s protein needs). The space itself feels lived in, with rustic wood accents, plants trailing every corner of the restaurant, and an open kitchen with very visible open flame, setting the stage for a cozy dining experience. The menu shifts constantly with what is foraged, farmed and fished nearby, but every dish highlights New England’s seasons in a way that feels elevated but also… earthy? We were also incredibly impressed with their wine list, which boasted some of our favorite Slovenian whites and funky oranges.

What to Do: Go to a Red Sox game at Fenway Park. Visit the Boston Common. Walk through Tufts or Harvard University. Check out the Esplanade. Visit Faneuil Hall. Walk the Freedom Trail. Check out the Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum. Climb to the top of the Bunker Hill Monument. Visit the Institute of Contemporary Art. Wander through charming Beacon Hill (don’t miss the Cheers!). Step into Boston Public Library.