Israel in 5 Days: The Prettiest Place I Ever Dead Sea

April 3, 2018 Laura Lisowski

In the interest of keeping this trip summary / guide short and sweet, I've decided to simply write out our itinerary and tips for easy access. At first, I thought maybe a 5 day trip around Israel would be a bit too quick - but after having done it, I believe you can get a very good taste (literally, the food is amazing) of the place in this period of time. Without further ado, here are my recommendations:

DAY ONE: JUDEAN HILLS, JERUSALEM, ARAD

Land at Ben Gurion airport as early as possible. Rent a car. Head out of Tel Aviv.

JERUSALEM:

Stuff to See:

Old City of Jerusalem
Machane Yehuda market
Western Wall
Tower of David & The Night Spectacular
City of David

Places to Eat/Drink:

Honorable Mentions:

If you have extra time, stop in Negev Brewery in Kiryat Gat or go exploring the Beit Guvrin caves (make sure to call in advance to find out when they close, as you usually need to be in them before 2 or 3pm).

JUDEAN HILLS:

Stuff to See:

Domaine du Castel, Tzuba Winery, Flam Winery, Tzora Vineyards and Sea Horse Winery make up the most impressive circle/sampling of Judean Hills wineries in Israel. Each has something different to offer and you can drop in for tastings at most of them. Pick a couple and soak in the experience.

ARAD:

Places to Stay:

Yehelim Boutique hotel
Zman Midbar Suites
Kfar Hanokdim (unique bedouin experience)

Places to Eat/Drink:

Eat dinner at Pizza Kaparuchka. While there, sample a local Negev Brewery beer or two. Go for a night cap at Muza sports pub.

DAY TWO: ARAD, MASADA

ARAD (CONT'D):

Stuff to See:

Buy pastries at Bethlehem Bakery. Stop at the grocery store in town for some snacks. Head out for a day full of adventure.

Masada hike (best at sunrise). Shvil Haratz is an alternative hike to the snake path up Masada. The path is 3 kilometers long, taking you around the northern side of the mountain and up the Roman Path, known in Hebrew as Shvil HaSolela.

Ein Gedi (Situated 800m up the hill from the Rte 90 turn-off to Ein Gedi Nature Reserve).

Wadi Ze'elim hike. The starting point, Birkat Tzfira campground is accessible by all cars from Arad-Masada road (3199). It takes around 3 hrs walk , but the idea is to spend some time stopping for tea or coffee, getting into the water or just enjoying the wild desert. You definitely want to consider hiking it clockwise, and adding a jump to Birkat Tzfira (Tzfira Pool) at the end.

Places to Stay:

Yehelim Boutique hotel
Zman Midbar Suites
Kfar Hanokdim (unique bedouin experience)

Kfar Hanokdim is my strong recommendation. This is one of the most unique experiences that you can have in the Middle East, essentially becoming a part of a Bedouin tribe for as long as you decide to stay. You have the opportunity to learn about Bedouin culture from actual bedouin people ("I miss the days of moving, we can not move like we used to anymore because of Israeli law") and meet other travelers who are looking to share a similar experience.

DAY THREE: ARAD, BEERSHEBA, SDE BOKER, MITZPE RAMON

Have breakfast at Kfar Hanokdim (if you stayed there, which you should). Take a morning camel ride across the Negev Desert (part of their all inclusive package). Get on the road by 10:30am. Stop at Yatir Winery for a quick tasting on the way to Beersheba.

BEERSHEBA:

Places to Eat/Drink:

Lola Cafe - best for breakfast!
Beerstation
Pastina
Saba Jebeto
Smilansky Tapas Bar

MITZPE RAMON:

The region is known for its organic farms and traditionally edible products like honey, wine, cheese, yogurt and olive oil. Follow the Wine Route and stop at wineries/farms along the way. You can also visit the kibbutz of Sde Boker and Ben Gurion’s hut. Here you’ll hear the fascinating story of Israel’s Prime Minister and his vision for the Negev. End the day in Mitzpe Ramon for dinner.

Stuff to See:

Mitzpe Ramon Crater
Camel Lookout (can you figure out why it's called this?)
Alpaca Farm
Orly Cactus Farm

Places to Eat/Drink:

Rota Farm and Winery
Kornmehl Goat Cheese Farm
Carmey Avdat Farm – best place to buy wines!
Boker Valley Vineyards - they sample multiple wineries' wines, so a good place to go if you only have time to stop at one.
Kadesh Barnea Winery
Hahavit
Mitzpe Ramon Jazz Club

Places to Stay:

Beresheet Hotel
Desert Experience AirBnB in Ezuz
Boker Valley Vineyards
Carmey Avdat Farms
Rammed Earth AirBnB (if you've got some extra $$ to throw around)

DAY FOUR: MITZPE RAMON, ZUQIM

Wake up and visit any of the places you missed the day before, as if you did it right, Day 3 was an absolutely packed day! But don't idle for too long because you are going to want to get to Zuqim earlier in the day rather than later to fully appreciate the beauty of Zuqim (which is considered the Arava desert and sits just on the border of Jordan).

MITZPE RAMON

Stuff to See:

Ein Akev hike: You'll want to fuel up with a hearty breakfast for this one, go early in the day, and be sure you have lots of water with you. The hike is a 12km loop and took us about 4 hours (don't trust the online guides which say 6-7 hours; if you're in shape, you'll be done in 4 or 5 hours max).

ZUQIM:

Places to Eat/Drink:

Ursula (German food, is very popular despite the strangeness of German cuisine in Eastern Israel)
Route 90 (next door to Ursula; good place for grabbing the world's best popsicles called Paletas, sandwiches, and other snacks).

Places to Stay:

Nof Zuqim (worth the $$ cost)
Midbara
Desert Days

DAY FIVE: ZUQIM, TEL AVIV / JAFFA

Our goal was to get back to Tel Aviv as quickly as possible (it's about 3 hours from Zuqim, with slight traffic), so we skipped all of the things we had hoped to do on our way back. But maybe you'll have an extra day than us and want to know where to stop to make the trip back more enjoyable, so here are some honorable mentions of places that can be on the way (-ish) back into the big city:

Tze'ela Dairy Farm
The Salad Trail
Naama Farm
Teva Habsor (is an organic farm located in Moshav Ein Habsor in the Western Negev and owned by the local Uziyahu family)
Philip Carriage Farm
Noams' Artichokes
Eilat / Red Canyon / Timna Park (south of Zuqim, 2 hours) - would need an extra 1/2 day or full day to see this area

TEL AVIV / JAFFA

Stuff to See:

Tel Aviv-Jaffa Promenade
Hayarkon Park
Old Town Jaffa
Jaffa Port
Carmel Market - an open air market known for its fresh fruits and vendors.
Levinsky Market
Neve Tzedek - the city's first neighborhood & by far my favorite area! Very charming, filled with lots of restaurants and bars.
Sarona Market - Israel's largest culinary complex

Sarona Market is a great place to stop on the way to the airport, as it's a bit out of downtown Tel Aviv hotel district. Think of this as the place where you can get any fresh Israeli fruits, nuts, delicacies, yummy gifts that you could ever desire. And one final Paletas ice pop to fulfill a craving (my favorite was Pistachio).

Places to Eat/Drink:

Places to Stay:

*BONUS TIP: Do not miss breakfast at the Mendeli Street Hotel, as it was by far the best meal of the entire trip.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Much of this trip was inspired by books and Netflix documentaries on Israeli culture / cuisine, so I wanted to list a few here so you could also learn/appreciate the knowledge ahead of a future trip.

This itinerary was also put together with the help of plenty of blogs that already exist; I merely compiled what I thought to be the best of the best of them. Because I'm a big fan of giving credit where due, here are some of those blogs for reference:

Manshausen Island: Skip Iceland, This is the Best Place to See the Northern Lights

April 3, 2018 Laura Lisowski

“Exactly HOW good are they?” I shouted out the window from bed, as I lazily rolled from side to side, fighting off post-dinner lethargy. “Do you see any purple? Are they extra squiggly?”

If you’ve seen them before, you know that the northern lights seem to have two extremes: 1) a light green hue in the sky - faint, but visible to the human eye, and 2) ABSOLUTE UNEXPECTED CHAOS; when the lights start to dance and vertical lines emerge from the black of night in such a way that purples and pinks surface in waves. In this stage, virtually anything can happen - and no two experiences are ever the same.

You know you’ve reached peak Northern Lights snobbery when you become arbiter of which lights are worth leaving the cabin for. But after freezing my fingers off photographing impeccable auroras the prior night, a light hint of green beams reflecting across the channel just wasn’t enough to justify emerging from the balminess of the indoors.

Luckily, Manshausen Island is one of the only places in the world where you don’t have to choose between comfort and auroras. The island, situated 100 km above the Arctic Circle, contains only four cabins (soon to be seven, as new ones are in development) jutting out into the Grøtøya strait, each with floor to ceiling glass windows, from which you can take in the lights (or sunrise/sunset).

Manshausen is run by a lovely young couple: Astrid and Jesper, who moved to the island together as their own personal adventure only last year. These forces of humans are as important to the island as the land itself. She cooks, organizes, handles guests – you name it. He – a former mountain guide – does the other half of the duties. Partners in the truest sense, they have unmistakably made Manshausen their home and have become one with the place. And it’s contagious: while there, you feel as though you should too.

During the day, you are encouraged to do your own exploring or take part in one of the activities available: kayaking, hiking on the adjacent island, fishing for some arctic catch, or even just walking around the Manshausen Island itself can keep you busy for an afternoon. There are many fun finds on the island itself: the resident sheep population, seashells, and sunrises/sunsets which you'll remember for a lifetime. After a day of adventuring, you can either cook for yourself in your own cabin, or opt into an incredible meal with only the best ingredients sourced from the surrounding islands.

The supreme immersion and belonging to everything local is exactly what I imagine the founder Børge Ousland had in mind when he came up with the idea to open Manshausen in the far reaches of northern Norway.

A highly esteemed polar explorer, Børge spent years looking for a way to share the immense beauty of arctic landscapes which he had come to love with normal folk. Quite the quest, coming from a guy who said his marital vows at the North Pole.

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The search for such a place turned out to be an adventure in itself. Børge didn’t find Manshausen overnight. It took years of travel, a bit of luck, a chance meeting with the eventual architect, and some convincing – as any new venture usually does. But throughout, Børge’s paramount aspiration was to create a place where humans and nature could exist in harmony.

Minutes after an Arctic seal surfaced in the water right underneath our cabin, I watched one of the largest sea eagles imaginable soar overhead. I looked out at the Lofoten Islands in the distance, and inhaled the Barents Sea. Did Børge succeed? You decide.

The Top Brown Cafes of Amsterdam

March 8, 2018 TJ Church

The ‘Brown Cafe’ in the Netherlands is similar to the Dutch word Gezellig*: both are described as being somewhat translatable, but certainly not with just a single word or two, and both will likely be experienced by pretty much every visitor to Amsterdam:*convivial, cozy, and fun.

The brown cafe is often said to be the Dutch equivalent of a pub in England. However that might be both better and more narrowly refined to being more like a local pub in Ireland where the local beer and spirits (as well as coffee and tea) are poured, people congregate to chat or catch up on news during the day, to eat, and to drink (and sometimes sing) through the evenings…. and they stay open much later than any English pub I’ve visited.

The name may possibly be derived from their interiors – most often wood paneled bars and walls, with lower ceilings (that are still sometimes stained from the days when smoking cigarettes inside was ok), and the overall cozy, worn but warm and welcoming atmosphere.

Some are noted for their food, and others are decidedly not…. Menus will often heavily feature borrelhapjes, which translates literally as “drink snacks” (get the bitterballen!) and sometimes broodjes – or small sandwiches on rolls, as well as brown bread with Dutch cheeses, spreads and meats.

The Top Brown Cafes of Amsterdam: This is 100% manageable as a 'café crawl', or perhaps just visit them a couple at a time and use them as ‘places of refuge’ when out visiting the sights (and dodging the trams, bicycles, and tourists you'll encounter...).

There is a downloadable map of all listed venues below.

Café ‘t Small Really quaint with a very traditional interior, and a great outdoor terrace perched on a canal for warmer weather visits (it hosts their illuminated Christmas trees in early winter).

Café de Wetering a fantastic option for a cold or wet day. It is filled with original (not staged) charm and is an excellent place of refuge from the crowds of the Rijksmuseum & museum quarter and a great authentic destination for those out to see the Heineken Experience. It also has a fireplace which makes it even more inviting on those days with a chill in the air.

Cafe Chris has a pool table (which is rare given the usual space concerns) and is apparently the oldest beer bar in Amsterdam (1624!) so therefore it has to be on this list.

Café de Eland On the busy corner of Prinsengracht and Elandsgracht this is a great example of a traditional brown café where originally drinks were served in front and the family who owned it lived upstairs in the back. The outdoor seating offers prime people watching opportunity – and ask about the illuminated moth above the bar.

De Blaffande Vis This is a great locals / neighborhood brown café not necessarily known for its location - but it will be busy on any day with even a glimmer of sun. It is lighter than most (tall ceilings, off-white walls, and massive windows) and serves high quality Dutch meals, usually just 4 or 5 options on a chalk board menu, at good prices.

Proeflokkal Arendsnest The Eagles Nest tasting room… perhaps not a true brown café, but they serve only Dutch craft beer, and up to 50 of them available on draft at any time, and there is a great atmosphere – so it makes the list!

Café de Tuin - often hits lists of the best bitterballen in Amsterdam… it makes this list because it is off the beaten tourist path, is not on a canal (center of the Jordaan on a street with some great dining options), and is a great neighbourhood-y example.

Café de Sluyswacht - a rare standalone building in Amsterdam and as a result it is one of the more crooked buildings too – apparently leaning more than the tower of Pisa… instagrammers: get yourself here.

Café Heuvel is one of the older brown cafes still operating today. A good location between the Vondelpark and city center on a corner of a canal. Fairly small inside but with good use of bar seats and perimeter tables you should be ok, the outdoor seating expands capacity on nicer days.

Café de Prins is across from a canal, in a converted canal house, and near the Anne Frank house, and this is one of the brown cafes known for its food. As a result it can get busy but they do take reservations.

Cafe Thijssen has a great location on the corner of Brouwersgracht, offers good borrelhapjes snacks, a rotating menu of soups, and just has a very good intangible vibe to it.

The top brown cafes of Amsterdam. Visit to take a break when on your feet all day, experience Amsterdam as a local, and have a local drink and chat.

Notes:

*gezellig: defining the undefinable with wikipedia...

The beer glass will not be filled to the brim. It will likely be hand washed in a small sink, filled, and have foam at the top that the bartender will flick away with a little spatula-esque implement. This is how it is done - don't question it.
Most take cards / contactless – but have some cash on hand just in case (or ask first)
The borrelhapje at the top of the Dutch bar snack pyramid is the bitterballen… which is not bitter at all and is basically a deep fried ball of gravy or roux and while traditionally they have meat in them, there are now spinach, beet, and various other mixed veggie options available all over Amsterdam catering to the plant-based diet aficionados that still like a dirty snack form time to time… The other core hapje offerings are the brown bread with assorted dips, the Dutch cheese platter – often augmented with ossenworst sausage, kroketten, and frickandel

72 hours in Chamonix: An Easy Guide to Maximize Adventure

November 14, 2017 TJ Church

In planning for my short last-minute getaway to Chamonix, I scoured the web hoping that somebody else had written something suited for somebody spending a few off-season days in the area, not a week holiday during peak ski season, which obviously brings it’s own separate set of attractions.

I looked and looked and I struggled. So I did the best I could with the information I could find and ended up winging the hiking and activities (with helpful advice from a few friends) once I had arrived.

Chamonix in off season or shoulder season

Here’s what I had hoped to have found ahead of my trip - in my opinion, these are the best of the best, if you only have a short amount of time:

GETTING TO CHAMONIX:

Fly into Geneva International Airport. Flying in here versus elsewhere will greatly reduce your commute time and maximize the amount of time you have in the mountains. Once you land, find the booth for Mountain Drop Offs right outside of arrivals. You can, and should, pre-arrange with them as they are popular and fill up fast (many hotels will also coordinate with them for you, which is encouraged). Who knows, you may even make an adventure buddy on your trip, as it is typically a shared transfer with other like-minded folks heading on holiday. They’ll drop you off at the front door step of your hotel, and are only slightly pricier than bus options.

WHERE TO SLEEP & RELAX:

Stay at Hotel Mont-Blanc Chamonix, a perfectly located classically cozy resort in the heart of town. As an over 100-year old establishment, it feels rooted in the culture and town itself, yet they don’t miss a beat on modern/contemporary touches and service.

To start, Hotel Mont Blanc coordinated with Mountain Drop Offs for me, without any hesitation, which was greatly appreciated to alleviate some of the pain of travel logistics, so I could focus on doing what I wanted to do most: just get there and play.

And the good service, convenience and proximity to literally everything only continued from there. Anything I wanted the entire stay was in walking distance: shops, restaurants, lifts, hikes, and even a little store for a late night wine run.

Amenities are aplenty: spa, reading room with historic/adventure-inspired books, pool-with-a-view (does it get any better than this?), full bar and restaurant, room service (get the chicken caesar and a splurge bottle of wine, you won’t regret it). I almost hesitate to recommend the hotel because it’s so good that it’s hard to leave.

From my fourth floor suite, I opened not one but two sets of doors every morning to almost-too-good-to-Instagram (for fear that it would never do justice) views of the surrounding Alps, so close it felt like I could reach out to touch them. 'Tis the charm of Chamonix - the ability to appreciate comfort and coziness, from the elegance of classic accommodations, whilst also feeling like you are truly in the heart of the mountains themselves, not just a bystander.

A few more good tips from the Telegraph if you’re looking for other options or if Mont Blanc is fully booked

THE ADVENTURE (WHAT YOU CAME FOR):

I had two full days for adventure, and the first was looking questionable weather-wise. Accordingly, I wanted to find something that I could do in potentially half of a day, if weather interfered, and another activity which would allow me to be outside all day in what I anticipated would be good weather.

THE HALF DAY: LAC BLANC

Wake up early and either walk or shuttle to the Flegere lift. It took me about 25 minutes to walk from town; it’s a straight forward walk down one main road and you’re taking in views the whole time - it’s a nice way to extend your hiking time given that you’re slightly “cheating” by taking the lift to avoid two hours of uninteresting slogging uphill. Follow signs to Lac Blanc or even better, plug it into your Google Maps. The trail is obvious and you’d have to try pretty hard to get off path. Once at the top, you’ve got about 1.5 hours of hiking until you arrive at Lac Blanc. Bring layers, as you’re warm while moving but assumedly will want to hang out for awhile once at the lake and if at all near late fall/winter, it will feel very alpine. Walk around the lake and be sure to get low for a few photos; if it’s not very windy, the reflections of the Alps on the lake will make for some awesome snaps. There’s a rifugio hut up there though it was closed when I visited. Rumor has it they have hot chocolate to die for; next time.

Chamonix Lake Reflection Lac Blanc and Aiguille du Midi

Walking back down should take a little over an hour. Keep your eyes open for animals (we saw some deer), trekkers on just one leg of the full Mont Blanc circuit (they usually have fun stories), and a few smaller ponds which also offer some pretty brilliant reflections.

And for the record, “low season” in late October, though not the typical or necessarily expected time for planning a visit, is the BEST time to go. Why? You’ll not only get cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, but ALL THE FALL COLORS. I mean, can you EVEN with these oranges contrasted against the jagged peaks?

Chamonix Autum Lake Lac Blanc Aguille du Midi

All in all, the half day hike went as planned and I was gone from my hotel from about 7am to 2pm, just as the rain and weather started to roll in. A perfect morning or afternoon hike which still leaves time to explore the town and buy some touristy things.

THE FULL DAY: AIGUILLE DU MIDI

I stupidly made the decision to idle around sipping a few too many coffees in the morning and got to the Aiguille du Midi lift with mushroom quiche in hand around 10:30am. Considering the lift had already been open a couple of hours, this was a rookie move for me. About 100 - 150 people were in line waiting for tickets, and it took around an hour for me to get to the front. I almost ditched the line a few times, and likely would have if my only objective was to get to the top of the lift, look out, and come down, but I had bigger aspirations in mind.

I had read that there are two stops on the lift up: the first being Plan de l’Aiguille, the second being Aiguille du Midi. You buy tickets for both at the same booth at the bottom, but must indicate if you plan on only going halfway up, or all the way to the top. The Aiguille du Midi is where most climbers start their ascent of Mont Blanc, but ironically is also a huge tourist trap. Sitting at 3842m, you are able to walk through a series of buildings, pipes, and windows to take in the full range of mountains around you, all whilst learning about some of the background of the mountaineers who have called these peaks their home away from home.

Being used to suffering for my views, taking a cable car up into the very peaks felt like cheating to the point where I felt uncomfortable staying there for too long. With that said, it’s worth the views, as well as a quick and comfortable taste of true frigid alpine air - something which makes you quickly come to appreciate the accomplishments made by mountaineers not only by virtue of the feats undertaken, but the weather conditions sustained throughout.

After about an hour on cable car and exploring Aiguille du Midi, I hopped back on the lift and headed down to Plan de l’Aiguille, where my day’s adventure would begin. From here, you could grab a quick coffee/bite and then head out in any direction for a day’s worth of hiking/running/adventuring all throughout the peaks.

After a late start and some idling up at Midi, I had a few more hours in my afternoon before sunset and the final cable cars headed back down the mountain so I took off hiking/running. My goal was to traverse a few areas around Plan de l’Aiguille and finally head towards the Montenvers cable car at 1913m which I would finally take back down to town. From Plan de l’Aiguille, the trails were obvious: just follow the signs to Montenvers and Mer de la Glace and you won’t get lost.

Hiking would take about 2.5 hours to arrive at Montenvers, and not a single view along the way would disappoint, with the final peak and glacier views capping off a perfect afternoon adventure.

WHERE TO EAT:

THE FAST, CHEAP, & EASY: COOL CATS

Two words: Hot. Dog. With more hot dog toppings than you can imagine to choose from, this is an absolute must. Head straight from your hike and take your pick. You can sit in, out, or take it to go, and they have some cheap and easy beer/wine options as an accompaniment. You cannot go wrong, and I had to struggle to even meet their credit card minimum, I spent so little. Luckily they had cookies.

THE CLASSY, LOCAL, & REQUIRES A SHOWER: LE CAP HORN

Cap Horn is known for local fancier meat & pasta fares, but also for its extensive sushi selection. I opted for a fancy goat cheese walnut salad (because, greens) and a spicy mayo shrimp sushi, with a couple of local wines to pair, and couldn’t have been more content. Good for date night, or for heading solo or with the family; just be sure to call ahead, as it fills up fast!

I would absolutely head to Chamonix in the late Fall again, and encourage you, too, to think about visiting in what the crazy people call the “off” season there. You can make your own judgments, but to me: there’s nothing “off” about it.

Merano is not Murano: Sud Tirol, Alto Adige and the Dolomites

September 19, 2017 TJ Church

Merano is not Murano. That seems obvious when reading it, but when told that we are staying in a centuries old hotel that once was a hunting lodge in that location, the immediate reaction was – ‘huh, that is really interesting…’ So I initially thought Murano…canals, gondolas, glassblowing, etc., all of which could not be further from the truth….even if you do fly in to the same airport (Venice)!

As a result of this phonetic mixup, Merano was more than a pleasant surprise – a spa town with restorative waters that people have been visiting since the 1930s. It is surrounded by impressive peaks and is super quaint but yet cosmopolitan at the same time, Mediterranean influenced but with an alpine feel… a half Italian, half German gateway to the Dolomites.

In every shop, restaurant, or café one is greeted with “Bitte, Prego” as this area with its interesting history (Italian, Austro-Hungarian… World War challenges and annexation only fully resolved as recently as 1972.. check Wikipedia If interested) is today almost 50/50 German and Italian speaking. We did not hear any other languages while there (leaving behind the well-documented tourist masses that flock to the other ‘Merano’ near Venice) – and enjoyed what feels like an undiscovered, un-touristy corner of the world.

We’ve come to the conclusion that this region has to be ranked in the list of top unsung destinations in Europe- especially in the non-winter sports months… unknown by all except for the maybe the German and Italian regular visitors who, it seem, very much prefer to keep it that way…

And high above the town sits Castel Fragsburg, the aforementioned former hunting lodge now five star resort that has been sympathetically and thoughtfully restored by the Ortner family. It is almost impossibly located – perched on the side of a South Tyrolean peak among the regions ubiquitous grape vines and apple trees, with views that honestly have to be seen to be believed.

Caste Fragsburg Sud Tirol Dolomites Italy

This small area of Sud Tirol or Südtirol or Trentino-Alto Adige has a microclimate (more mild in the summers, cooler in the summer with 300 days of sun per year) that has lured visitors for over 350 years for various pursuits. Castel Fragsburg is unique in that it has the feel of one of the top grand European hotels, but yet it has just 20 suites. It initially appears that it may be over the top luxury when you first drive through their entryway, but then the property reveals a mountain lodge feel, which is complemented by a nod to its past with faultless décor, the staff’s traditional regional clothing, and the fact that the Ortner family has instilled a level of service that blends impeccable hospitality with being welcomed as friends.

South Tyrol / Sud Tirol:  where apple orchards meet vineyards — South Tyrol / Sud Tirol: where apple orchards meet vineyards

On top of this all it has a Michelin starred restaurant, with full 180 degree views of the mountains across and valley below which can be enjoyed from a terrace literally clinging to the edge of the property during the warmer summer months. A truly fun menu is a reference point for the abundant produce of the region. It allows you to explore the best of Italian, Austrian andGermanic influences on the local diet, and is complemented by a wine list that highlights the again fantastic but yet somewhat underappreciated (by the rest of the world) wines of the area… we’d suggest a local Nosiola from the Trentino DOC!

I cannot think of another location where we have dined with such a spectacular setting. The quality and presentation of the food distracts from the amazing views and the fact you feel like you are suspended above the scenery, while the ever-changing light on the surrounding mountains and valley below distracts from the food and wine in front of you…. and then eventually you succumb to the additional distraction of your suite.

Castel Fragsburg is a perfect place for a vacation/holiday. A property where one could stay and rest (and dine) comfortably for weeks at a time without leaving, or alternatively it is perfectly located as a jumping off point to explore the forests, lakes, waterfalls (one of which is just an easy 15 minute walk from the hotel) and the mountains of the Dolomites and Tyrol Schistose Alps with epic day hikes and adventures available within easy striking distance.

One day hike falling in to that category that we might categorize as a ‘must do’ is the often Instagrammed but has to be seen in real-life Seceda, or Seceda-2500m depending on what your search preference is. Just an hour from Merano and short on time we took the Ortisei to Seceda cable car up and then quickly separated ourselves from the groups beginning their day hikes in this area of the Dolomites. The geology here is very unique – striated pyramids jutting up from green alpine fields and cliffs plunging off on one side. In the other direction: panoramic views complemented by the often changing and variable weather conditions that only add to the dramatic setting.

It continues to amaze us that such spectacular settings are so accessible as day hikes, and that there is such an abundance of hiking opportunities seemingly from every picturesque town that you stumble upon (we’d highly recommend a visit just to see the quaint Ortisei / Urtijëi and the Val Gardena).

We are on a mission to explore this area more broadly and further lift the veil on this fantastic region. Each return trip home results in a feeling that we need to go back again soon… and we will!