A Focus on Zermatt: Mountain Views and Culinary Delights

Red! White! Yellow! Green! Indigo! Black! White!

We sat on our almost too-good-to-be-true balcony at the aptly named ‘Matterhorn Focus’ hotel, looking up at the still dimly visible Matterhorn set upon the starry backdrop, noticing the oddly sporadic and countless colors blinking on the light on the Schwarzsee side of the mountain.

“What do you think those lights mean?” I asked. 

A quick Google search revealed that there were three lights of this kind visible from Zermatt, and between sunset and sunrise, they could be easily changed at will by a simple telephone call.  As it turns out, all you need to do is own a cell phone and you can make your own impact on Zermatt.  The Yeti club originally came up with the idea, aptly named Lumorama, in celebration of mountain guides who give their time and unfortunately, sometimes their lives to the mountains.  All funds from the calls go towards a fund which is given to families guides in times of need.  The spirit of the Lumorama, to us, embodies exactly what Zermatt, Matterhorn Focus, and the people of this region of Switzerland stand for:

Creative, thoughtful, and ever focused on and toward the mountains.

MATTERHORN FOCUS: A SHINING STAR

We arrived at the Matterhorn Focus Hotel on an unseasonably warm afternoon, and were immediately struck by the friendliness of all of the staff – as well as a much-needed welcome drink.  The people we met quickly felt like friends, eager to share with us their insights on the town, the best places to catch the right light/views at each time of the day, weather-dependent.  While one might expect the hotel to be modest assuming the views of the Matterhorn would do the heavy lifting, that couldn’t be further from the truth.  The hotel itself is a shining star, and the views of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks from the room are merely a cherry on top of the exceptional experience within. 

Focus Matterhorn Royal Suite

Being American, living in London, and having an ongoing obsession with the Nordic culture of minimalism and simplicity, we tend to favor places that have a perfect fusion of all of the above.  We were shown to our Royal Suite and to say that it did not disappoint would be an understatement.  A mountain view? Check. Minimalist, clean and welcoming rustic design? Check.  Easy access to endless miles of trails? Check. Walkable distance to good food & the town? Check. Matterhorn Focus has it all, without swinging too far into the red-and-white-checkered-everything, old-fashioned Swiss-chalet style.  It makes those of us non-Swiss who come from other places and are experiencing a bit of a culture shock feel comfortable and right at home.

MOUNTAIN VIEWS

You can’t go wrong with a room at the Matterhorn Focus.  You are either positioned in a room with breathtaking unobstructed views of the Matterhorn, or given the chance to look over the entire town of Zermatt and all of the other surrounding peaks from the other side. We were treated to the Matterhorn views, which made waking up for sunrise a little less painful, as we could watch the very tip of the mountain turn that specific shade of alpenglow pink that is worth waking up for every time – and then head straight back to bed for another hour of shuteye.

While we were there in the summer, it’s also worth noting that for winter visitors, this would be an ideal place to check weather conditions from bed, rather than by iPhone, and decide whether or not to hop on the lift right away or give yourself another few hours to doze.  The lift is painfully convenient in proximity, and allows you to expend more energy up on the slopes, rather than getting to them.

 

Balcony View at Matterhorn Focus

Balcony View at Matterhorn Focus

RUSTIC MINIMALISM

When coming off of the mountain, even in the summer, there’s nothing more enticing than a frosty cold beer and a nice place to sit down and relax.

Our suite was cozy and loaded with ample plush fixtures: a free standing bath with soaking salts, a personal Nespresso machine, several fluffy blankets and pillows; as well, multiple sitting rooms in the main lobby were equally inviting and rustic without being too pretentiously lodgy.  Every room just begged to be sat in and enjoyed – whether for a quick rest before taking on the next activity, or for curling up with a book for a few hours and lazying away the day.

Matterhorn Focus Lounge Area

Matterhorn Focus Lounge Area

TRAILS GALORE

Getting away from the crowds, selfie sticks, and souvenir shops is an imperative for every trip we take, even if just for a little while – and having been to Zermatt as very much classic “tourists” before, we made it our mission on this particular trip to stay somewhere that was well positioned to escape and hit the trails conveniently and easily.

Matterhorn Focus is just a hop skip and a jump out of the downtown, so as to be convenient to the train station and trails, but far away enough from the riff raff that you can enjoy the mountain experience without feeling surrounded by day visitors and tourists.  We found it to be effortless to get in and out of the downtown (quite different from prior experiences where we dreaded heading into town, only to face a monstrous uphill climb back to our chalet after indulging in a few too many post hike/ski beers). 

While we had originally planned a “rest” day for our first day, the accessibility of the trails was too good to pass up, and we set out for the enviable Trift trail hike, leading up to the Platthorn and Mettelhorn.  We geared up with a hefty breakfast at Focus’ incredibly ample buffet (eggs, bacon, yogurt, fruit, cappuccinos, a plethora of breads and cheese – what more could we ask for?), knowing we would need every calorie we could get and soon thereafter (well, after one more coffee), set off for the mountains.

Within 10 minutes, we were well on our way up the Trift trail, navigating rocks and roots and sketchy cliff drop offs.  We spent the entire day far away from civilization, seeing only a handful of other hikers, and summiting the Platthorn mountain a couple hours before dinner.  From up there, visitors willing to work for their views are treated with absolutely astonishing views of Zermatt and 360 degree panoramas of the Swiss and Italian alps from an entirely new perspective.  The walk down certainly led to sore legs, hungry bellies, and dusty legs after a few lazy falls, but we emerged into Zermatt and wobbled the quick 10 minute stroll back to the Focus, where we were treated to a cold beer, a hot shower, and free afternoon treats to reward our efforts.

Trift Trail Hike above Zermatt

Trift Trail Hike above Zermatt

 

UNPARALLELED LOCAL CUISINE

We would be remiss if we didn’t mention the proximity of Matterhorn Focus to our absolute favorite restaurant in Zermatt, the Sonnmatten.  After a full day of uphill hiking and showering the dirt off, we were starving but not in the best form to walk far – so our favorite restaurant being a 3 minute walk away from the hotel was quite possibly the biggest treat of the day.

Sonnmatten boasts absolutely incredible views of the Matterhorn, which are only surpassed by the scrumptiousness of their cuisine. During the winter, they offer a daily fixed menu, which we had enjoyed when last in Zermatt over the winter, but by summer, the fare is a la carte and features local delicacies, fresh salads, a wide variety of Swiss meats, oversized hamburgers, and of course, endless amounts of the favorite local craft beer.  We watched the sun go down and wrapped ourselves in blankets as we enjoyed a meal of homemade house salad, goat cheese honey bruschetta, and deer with spätzle – all delicious (and you must try the homemade hay schnapps)! 

Sonnmatten Zermatt

Sonnmatten Zermatt

From work to mountains in 2 hours, a Swiss microadventure

I walked out of my final client meetings in Zurich at 3pm on Friday, basked in a few moments of sunshine, and then promptly hopped onto the train headed towards Kandersteg.  Two hours later, I was in the most quintessential alpine town I may have ever seen, and hopped onto a gondola up to Berghotel Oeschinensee.  Kandersteg welcomed me in true alpine fashion; as the lift headed up into the mountains, I found myself in the midst of a snow storm and visibility was about 10 feet all around.  I briefly thought of the sunbathing Swiss back in Zurich only a mere hours earlier drinking their Aperol’s and chuckled to myself.  What a weird world.

As I reached the top of the lift, Christoph, one of the Berghotel owners (the hotel has now been passed down through 6 generations), greeted me and drove us to the hotel.  “You got here just in time,” he said. “The weather would have been too dangerous to get in here if you had come even an hour later.”  I was shown my room, adorned with intricate yet simple Swiss details, and opened my lake/mountain facing window to reveal “the view”: snow, clouds, and more snow. 

Oeschinensee Interior dining area and stove

“I think we will be in for a surprise later; we’ll see” said Christoph, smiling, as he left me to unpack and settle into my room.  There’s something about mountain folks that just makes them know when the weather is going to turn just right and allow for unbelievable views at the most unexpected moments.  Boy, would he be right.  Only 2 hours later, I was treated to unobstructed lake views and an impeccably perfect weather window in which I was able to go on a 5-mile roundtrip hike up into the mountains, affording me the most Instagram-worthy views of Lake Oeschinensee from above. 

Oeschinensee lake valley view

The hotel was built in 1892, so has had plenty of decades to build up a loyal hoard of annual visitors. But more recently, the hotel and region have been discovered and frequented by tourists from around the world.  The communal bathrooms and shared lounge space subtly encourage you to get out of your shell and spend time with other travellers staying there, as well as learn what brought them to this beautiful place high up in the Bernese Oberland.

Berghotel Oeschinensee Room View

But what makes this hotel better than any other hotel is their dedication to the principles and history that have brought them here.  On my last day visiting, I sat down for breakfast with Christoph and his adorable kids, assumedly future owners of the hotel.  We chatted about his hopes for what the Berghotel could and should be; what it means to him in the context of his own life decisions. “I – and we don’t want to go away from what the Berghotel has always been; we don’t want to expand, make it larger, or lose control of what we set out to create… if anything, the opposite is true” said Christoph.  At first, the sentiment struck me by surprise. Coming from the world of business/finance, perhaps I have become too accustomed to the idea that the goal is always to sell more, make more, spend more – but the very principles which Christoph and his family hold so dear are what make this such a special place: it takes true heart, character, and dedication to values, to not move away from what is true just because the world is calling for it. It takes grit to say “no” to those who try to commercialize it, even if it means turning away money or what some may deem as bigger opportunities. 

And so for that reason, this hotel will continue to offer the most authentic and classic experience available to the true alpine vacationer.  That, and the fact they have the best access to the most epic alpine slide in the world – it’s a toss-up.

Slovenia, Cormòns Italy and La Subida

Our adventure originated unexpectedly: with a weeknight’s viewing of Netflix’s Chef’s Table…

For us, this innovative documentary series has already resulted in three different restaurant reservations in three very different locations so far (Slovenia, Sweden, and Chile)… and they are often made impulsively during the 45 – 60 minute period of watching the show.

(*hint NFLX – this is an obvious ecommerce tie–in)

In the case of Slovenia and Italy, we were already aware of the region’s natural beauty, but had not really focused at all on the very high quality and distinct food and wine options that were available and equally worth traveling for.  As we watched the episode profiling Ana Roš we intuitively knew that a trip to Kobarid was required and an email to the reservations team at Hiša Franko was sent. 

The perfect foundation to a trip, and an excellent meal was had (the week after we made our reservation Ana was named world's best female chef for 2017 – timing is everything) as we enjoyed Ana’s unique take on reinventing traditional regional dishes of the Soča valley area.

However -  the trip expanded further when we learned a bit later in the episode that Ana and her husband had frequently visited, and were in part inspired by, another restaurant which was just across the border in Italy: La Subida.  “My husband brought me to that restaurant and it would make my heart race,” said Ana, of La Subida. It was at La Subida where Ana’s love and talent for creative food began.

“Let’s drink more shall we!?” was the jocular question posed to us near the end of a thoroughly enjoyable meal and experience at that very restaurant, La Subida, which sits just outside of Cormons Italy and situated on the border with Slovenia.

La Subida is not only a restaurant, but also a rural residence where people come to get away.  It is an entirely unique destination, capturing that ‘country elegance’ or ‘rustic luxury’ that so many properties today attempt (and fail) to manufacture or conjure up from new facilities, while here it is done effortlessly.

La Subida exterior.jpg

While known for years for its restaurant Trattoria Al Cacciatore;  La Subida is now embarking on an effort to refine their image as a destination… spoken best by their own website: “a place where one goes to feel well, relax, stay on a little to unwind!”

The Sirk family is essentially welcoming you in to their country home, opened in 1960 as an inn and osteria, and now a Michelin starred (but this is not necessarily promoted…more accepted humbly) facility with an eclectic-in-a-very-good-way group of dwellings that go by the charming and appropriate names: Countryside, Grandma’s, Of the Wood, Of the Vinegar Factory, The Barn (Kozovci), and The Nest.  There is also no question about the main focus of the area when handed the key to your cottage: wine is what makes the world go round in this region.

Subida Key
Trattoria Al Cacciatore

Trattoria Al Cacciatore

Everything about our accommodations just felt comfortable, from when we arrived and were asked to sit on the courtyard sofa with a glass of sparkling and a local cheese snack before Mitja provided us with an overview of their property and the region, to enjoying the scenery from the terrace of the Osteria with a glass of the local Friuliano white wine (we found a preference for those from the Collio region of Friuli) to exploring the property and the neighbouring countryside before just relaxing and noting just how quiet it is in this part of the world at night.

La Subida Room.jpg

Then there is the food – thoroughly authentic and based on local cuisine (and hyper local produce) but at the same time refined with little touches and bursts of flavor – and a palate cleansing course of vinegar sorbet from their own on-site wine vinegar factory of which I could have easily had seconds (or thirds). 

La Subida Vinegar Factory

La Subida Vinegar Factory

Having eaten the evening prior at Hisa Franko, this was the perfect follow up to that dining event.  The two restaurants are connected by produce, wine, people, and history which is evident but at the same time a very different experience. That sense of rustic luxury again evident in the casual tenor and flow of the meal without any sacrifice on quality – again, in a completely comfortable, almost understated atmosphere.

La Subida Reception

For all the beauty of the Collio / Cormons area, scores of adventures and visual treats are available just across the border… all within a 90 minute to 2 hour striking distance from La Subida which allows you to travel from the vineyards to the snowy peaks of Slovenia (we started our trip in the mountain passes of Kranjska Gora) over the milky turquoise rivers of Slovenia and back in one day if you wish – further enhancing one’s stay in this sometimes overlooked but remarkably attractive part of the world.

Kranjska Gora Hike
Kobarid

We cannot wait to return.

Casa de la Flora - Khao Lak Thailand

“Many of my community were lost in the tsunami that year… we had not had a tsunami in our lifetime, and only knew a very big wave was coming quickly” explained our guide of the 2004 Thailand earthquake that claimed the lives of over 200,000 coastal inhabitants in 2004, an estimated 8,000 of which were in Thailand.  “We ran to high ground early that morning, and then came back to town late in the day after the waves. I looked up to see one of my closest friends up high, hugging a tree, he had been there all day long – he was crying, he was afraid to come down, and also had lost his father… it was a very sad day”.

I’m a firm believer in the fact that to fully appreciate beauty and goodness, one must also acknowledge and respect the bad, and the sometimes unavoidable tragedies of life.  Visiting Khao Lak for the first time, and sitting on an unspoiled, unnamed “hidden beach” with our Casa de la Flora guide, it’s hard to believe that a place with such appeal and beauty could have been so unexpectedly struck with a monster in the form of a 33 foot wave only 13 years prior.  It’s almost impossible to imagine what it would have been like to be sitting seaside with a coconut in hand, the only concern for that day being what variety of curry to make for dinner, only to be swept away by the Andaman Sea.  While a distant memory, or even worse – a forgotten event – for many visitors to the area today)  it was an unparalleled tragedy and has certainly changed this region of Thailand.

No Name Secret Beach Casa de la Flora

It is necessary to revisit these events as the experience and new luxury of Khao Lak are framed by the context of these stories: from the destruction emerges a tale about survival, community, and ultimately, allowing tragedy to rouse the process of rebuilding and starting anew – creating a place that is not better, not worse, but simply different.

After receiving our rental car keys under a red pool umbrella adorned with the classic Avis logo, with the humming of a distant local Thai band playing outdoors in the distance, we were on our way to Khao Lak.  Khao Lak sits about 1.5 hours, or around 55 miles north of Phuket International Airport and requires a focused drive as you weave through hundreds of mopeds, daredevil roadside dogs, and myriads of mom and pop pineapple stands. 

The fact that Khao Lak is relatively unheard of as opposed to the almost ubiquitous (and hedonistic) Phuket is exactly what gives it its charm.  The area itself is a little rough around the edges, lined with clothing stands and local Thai food bazaars, some abandoned bars and buildings (and others that just look abandoned but come alive at night); but it feels more real than its alternative.  In Khao Lak, you can truly experience Thailand as the locals know it.

Casa de la Flora takes you by surprise.  It’s modern, sleek appearance would be astounding even if stumbled upon in the middle of a posh part of Miami or NYC.  The highly sophisticated and thoughtful design contrasted to the laid back town and undeveloped pristine beaches makes its guests feel like they can enjoy a luxurious stay without sacrificing taking part in the local attractions and culture. 

Casa de la Flora design.jpg

We spent 3 days at Casa de la Flora, during which we tried to indulge in everything the resort had to offer both on and off campus.  After enjoying all the dragon fruit and fresh juice we could eat at breakfast the very first full day in paradise, we partook in a Thai cooking class with one of the hotel’s senior chefs.  “One or two spoons fish sauce? You remember?” chirped the senior hotel chef tasked with teaching us how to make our own Thai lunch for the day.  “You like spicy or Thai spicy?”

The hotel arranged for each of us to have our own cooking station, so we could own the preparation process of our own food from start to finish.   Two hours later, we had learned about all the local Thai spices, and had heaping portions of our own Tom Yum Goong and Pha-Naeng Neua to enjoy.  We also were armed with ample information as to what spices we would need to buy at the local market that evening, in order to recreate the dishes once we arrived back home (indeed, we did end up buying all of the spices, and look forward to making our own Thai feast in London).

Casa de la Flora Cooking School

The following day, we headed to the Secret Beach we discussed earlier.  Casa de la Flora seemed to have every single detail thought through on this trip.  We jumped onto a boat at Casa de la Flora’s sister hotel just down the street, and quickly were sized up for snorkel gear and given the agenda for the day: we were to first go snorkelling in the crystal blue waters off the coast of a beach just 15 minutes from the hotel, where we would be dropped off and given about 45 minutes to observe the plentiful tropical fish and corals.  Next, we would hop back in our boat and head to a pristine No-Name Beach, where we would be free to spend the next couple of hours exploring water holes, climbing rocks, eating lunch under a makeshift shelter, and swimming in the warm crystal blue waters.  We even learned about the local culture and fruits; including the way in which cashews grow and are harvested – and even got to try some cashew juice from the tree for ourselves!

Thai Secret Beach Lunch

The ride back from this day-long adventure in the sun was absolutely unforgettable as I consumed local fruit, refreshing drinks, and felt the Thai breeze whipping through my hair as we raced back to the hotel, where we were dropped off beach-side.

For our final day, we simply opted to just be, and not try to do too much. We relaxed, we indulged in all of the breakfast food options possible (you can eat until you drop, which we were big fans of), and opted to skip lunch in anticipation of the special dinner that was planned for our final evening.  While every dinner 

table at Casa de la Flora comes with a view, there is one exceptional option for guests looking for an extra unique and private experience: a private rooftop dinner for 2, complete with its own private chef and staff.  We were treated to an absolutely indulgent seafood platter complete with many of other courses and fine wines to pair.  

Casa de la Flora Rooftop Dining

Casa de la Flora offers an absolutely unforgettable Thailand experience where you can get a heaping of real local culture, appreciate uninterrupted tourist-free views and experiences, and eat to your heart’s delight.  We would recommend this place to adventurers of all ages and to all who have a great appreciation for a special kind of travel experience.

Relaxing Casa de la Flora

The Patagonia International Marathon & EcoCamp in Torres del Paine National Park

I see skies of blue and clouds of white, the bright blessed day, the sacred night

And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.

The colors of the rainbow so pretty in the sky, are also on the faces of people going by.

I see friends shaking hands, saying how do you do.

They’re really saying… I love you.

And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.

 

Around mile 13 a fellow marathoner caught up to the pack of runners I was in, smirking knowingly as he turned up his handheld speaker which so fittingly emitted Louis Armstrong’s ‘It’s a Wonderful World’.  I looked over, laughed, and even slightly shook my head, knowing that as cliché of a moment as it was, it was one that would surely stick with me for years to come. 

This wonderful world indeed seemed to whiz by me in a blur as I finished the back half of the Patagonia International Marathon, the tune seemingly serving as a temporary remedy to help me overcome the endless stretches of painfully beautiful hills, a glaring reminder of the long training runs I hadn’t done back home in London.  I crossed the finish line, taking mental snapshots of as many views of Los Cuernos as possible while trying to regain my breath.  I shook hands with fellow finishers.  I searched for the nearest apple or sandwich. 

Fitzroy Patagonia International Marathon Chile

I looked around and absorbed every single thing I could about this moment: the sunshine beaming down on my face, the surprisingly wind-free conditions, the way the late morning light hit the snow, the people congratulating each other, in awe of what they had just accomplished.  This was my place and these were my people. 

All I could think was: I am exactly where I am supposed to be.  I’m not sure I had ever felt that emotion so entirely before.

What I and the other thousands of runners had completed together that September morning would be a memory not soon (if ever) forgotten.  Many marathons are run each year- and people run them for different reasons: personal goals, with or for family members, fundraising for a cause, etc.  But this experience felt somehow different.  With crossing that finish line, we would be bonded for life, not just by the race we had just completed, but by the experience of running in truly the most beautiful place on earth.  That, and the effort it took to get there in the first place.

Patagonia International Marathon Landscape

Running in Patagonia is a different type of experience than running anywhere else.

It’s not just about a dedication to training, or the steady pulse of your feet hitting the pavement relentlessly for 26.2 miles on race day; It’s about getting back to the basics, and stretching our physical and mental limits as humans.

It’s about being reminded with every step that we are all a part of and wholly responsible for this uniquely pristine land.

It’s about respecting what we all stand for: beauty, purity, great wide open spaces – and the protection of them.

It’s about coming together as one, rather than being wedged apart, despite being individual racers, each with his or her own story, opinions and background.

The runners dedicated themselves to traveling many hours and thousands of miles, and in many cases, even days to being in Patagonia arrived to the race that day with one overarching personal truth: this is the place, and these are the moments that make us feel alive.

They give us faith.  They give us hope. 

My Patagonia marathon experience and desire to help do my part in this world and minimize my own footprint was only amplified by my stay at Ecocamp Patagonia with Cascada Travel. 

As Torres del Paine’s first fully sustainable accommodation, Ecocamp is a place that you can relax in what feels like the most luxurious place on earth, but also feel good about doing so.

Ecocamp lives and breathes the same truths and mores as the runners who are attracted to the Patagonia marathon, and it’s not hard to see why it is so special to so many of us who stayed there before and after race day. 

Patagonia Chile Ecocamp Exterior Eco Camp

The Ecocamp team fully embodies the spirit of giving back, teamwork, and supporting one’s own community: 90% of the guides are employed from local regions, all food is bought from nearby suppliers, the majority of the decoration inside the domes comes from Argentinian and Chilean artisans.  And this isn’t limited to just the staffing and importing of products, but extends as well to the thoughtful construction of the domes themselves.  The semi-spherical Ecocamp domes have skylight windows, are heated by the old-fashioned way (fire) and are constructed in such a way to minimize their impact on the Earth.  

The property stays at the forefront of the newest green capabilities and actively seeks ways to improve and to do better (currently, electricity is limited and propane gas is used for heating, but the founders are in active talks to implement solar energy for heating in the near future).   

The same way that we, as runners, are used to pushing our limits to the best of our ability, Ecocamp prides itself on pushing comfort ‘to the limits of what is sustainable’.  Through their ethos, they demonstrate that within us all exists a capacity and ability to take care of and respect the land we live on.  What matters most is our continued conscious effort and dedication to doing so.  Ecocamp is trying harder than anyone I know, and creating a truly unique experience in doing so. 

Ecocamp Patagonia exterior lodgings Eco Camp

Track and field coach and cofounder of Nike’s Bill Bowerman once said, “The real purpose of running isn’t to win a race. It’s to test the limits of the human heart.”

I couldn’t agree more, and a stay at soulful Ecocamp combined with the experience of the Patagonia Marathon gave me the ultimate heartfelt experience.  

Life feels simpler out there, but it feels just right.