Paresa Resort - Finding Cliffside Luxury in Thailand

“Do you hear that!?” Was exclaimed wide eyed as our aged and previously abused rental car exerted itself up the winding roads that bring you to Paresa Resort Phuket.

Most resorts will happily provide a variety of transfer options to and from the local airport, however we thought the more interesting approach would be to rent/hire a car allowing for much more freedom and options to explore.  Also, driving in southern Thailand is a great experience… it’s a two lane road?  Why not make it three by using the shoulder area?  The white lane lines are apparently just a suggestion, and you have to be vigilant and prepared for the myriad scooters, sidecars laden with watermelon or other in-season fruit on its way to a local market, and of course the very occasional elephant which we saw around one of the winding corners as we drove from the busy Patong to the tranquil Kamala.

Paresa Kamala Resort is creatively positioned on the cliffs affording fantastic, only-interrupted by trees views of the Andaman sea from every room (13) and suite (36) at the property.  It’s unique layout also allows for a very memorable and distinct hotel visit - epecailly when looking at other resorts in the area. You arrive at the very top of the property and descend to the reception area where we were warmly welcomed, provided with much needed cool and scented towels, a fragrant chilled tea, and asked to pick a scent for the room (lemongrass or coconut) as you run through the check in process.   

Paresa apparently means ‘heaven of all heavens’ and here because of the cliffside layout over many private acres you descend and ascend throughout the resort either on foot or with one of the many on-call buggies.  It is a unique set-up that creates a sense of isolation and privacy… and your legs will remind you of your efforts (it is a great way to work off a bit of the fantastic breakfasts and or dinners you will experience while on site – again with unrivalled views).

And that noise that we heard when we were first driving to the resort? Thousands, if not millions of cicadas and other chirping critters in the surrounding jungle/forest… a cacophony that rises and falls throughout the evenings there and serves as an unforgettable backdrop to the scenery – and thankfully those critters were heard but not seen as we gazed out at the squid boats lit up in green and white in the distance and the heat lightning that illuminated the night skies.

Ambient noise from the cliffs at Paresa Resort in Thailand

At risk of repetitiveness, the resort’s infinity pool (if you get sick of your own room’s pool) is located just below the restaurant and just a cliff level above the spa  – all again with amazing views of the sea that will have you reaching for your phone or camera over and over again trying to capture that elusive perfect angle that captures the feel of Paresa (it is difficult to do).

The spa itself offers many of the traditional treatments one expects to find, but with organic oils and materials and all created locally.  I opted for the special ‘after sun’ massage (peppermint, eucalyptus and tea tree) after foolishly spending some non spf time outside of our suite – it did not banish the burn but definitely made it a bit more manageable! (thank you)

Paresa also offers a host of activities (and yes - a fantastic beach as well)  – both their own and then some offered by a boutique third party provider where unique opportunities have been selected that keep you away from the tourist hoards and engaged with the local culture.  We chose to hop in our car in order to explore the Phuket Old Town on our own schedule.  The Old Town was a very pleasant surprise.  It has been both preserved and modestly gentrified – a great blend of the old Sino tin mining heritage and a nod to reforming and cleaning up its more ‘dusty’ areas which are now full of color and good smells (for the most part!).

We’d highly recommend visiting this area of the world.  Phuket has a little bit of everything – depending on what you are in to and looking for.  We came looking for interesting adventures, new cultural knowledge and an understanding of the area and some tranquillity / downtime and found it all at or within striking distance of Paresa Kamala.

Northern Lights in Northern Norway

“The lights are out!, The lights are out!” was the call to action during our stay at Lyngen Lodge. The house lights (the electric version) were all immediately dimmed (except a single lamp used by the kitchen prep team) and both guests and staff stopped what they were doing to see what was above us in the skies – leading to a scramble… some just out of the hot tub, others relaxing in front of the fire in slippers with a glass of wine, others reading in the cosy loft, and yet others just back from one of the great outdoor activities offered.  It does not matter – you bundle up as best as you can and jump to action to see the northern lights. Goretex rustles, tripods clatter together in the rush to get outside and quiet suggestions of camera settings are shared – with everyone hoping to try to somehow capture the display above.

We are firm believers that buzzwords should be avoided almost at all costs – especially when describing travel, which can be awash in them. 

Case in point – mention the Northern Lights or do a quick search and you’ll see ‘bucket list’,  ‘must do things to do in (insert location here)’ and numerous click-bait articles on the‘top things to do before you die’. 

Every year you see airlines selling packages based on them, aggregators touting all-inclusive tours, and various other superlatives about the aurora…  and the superlatives are true.

Ignore all of the noise – do a bit of research, and go see them.  You’ve seen the pictures on Instagram and from the good people at places like Visit Norway, but nothing does it justice until you have seen them yourself.  They move.  They twist. They change shape and expand across the sky right in front of your eyes and no matter how well filmed, captured and edited the end product is – it does not compare to the first person experience.

Now – the big question is where and when?  We’ve tried Iceland and seen them with middling results (no offense intended Iceland!) and set our sights on Norway.  It is more north, often with clearer skies.

There are myriad options in Norway. We were very intrigued by Lyngen Lodge because of its location (remote and north, in Djupvik near Olderdalen) and its description: ‘luxury boutique lodge’.

Transfers are offered but we decided it would be fun to hire a car in Tromso and drive – there are two options, one with two ferry rides across fjords and the other is the longer but more scenic route, which we chose. The drive was spectacular, if a bit harrowing, in a car without the proper snow tires and equipment, but also allowed us to become acquainted with the truly unique landscapes of northern Norway, where mountains seem ot jump from the sea/fjords around each bend.  It was totally worth it though as we got our first glimpse of the norther lights – initially saying ‘um I think I see something over there’ while trying to keep an eye on the icy roads and then a yell of “pull over!”

We saw a spectacular display on the side of the E6 road – we stood there in awe, shivering in the silence watching the green and pink display twist and change shapes above us.  Cameras (and coats) were buried in bags in the car and it was probably best that way for the first sighting – just experiencing it in awe instead of worrying about a tech set up.

As a result of our air (and aurora prompted) delays we arrived at Lyngen after the original anticipated time but were welcomed warmly by the staff and owners who sat us down immediately for a tasty bowl of soup and a quick orientation.  The lodge is well proportioned - traditionally built (massive wood logs and wool, no modern joinery or other insulation needed) and can accommodate 16 guests at a time in small-ish but well-designed rooms which actually encourages use of the super cosy main room with its large stone fireplace, sofas, and floor to ceiling windows providing fantastic views of the Lyngen Alps just outside. There is also a library and television room, but most guests seem to congregate in the warm living area / communal dining room spaces. 

The food at Lyngen Lodge was a particular surprise… an executive chef using locally sourced ingredients (expect fresh cod, crab, halibut, reindeer, lamb, etc) and presenting each evening’s 3 course meal along with a different red and white wine pairing each night – it was both quaint and high-end at the same time and always warming after a day’s activities and the small house and guide staff excels at making guests feel welcome - it feels more like a ‘lodge away from home’ because of the familiar faces you see throughout each day.

There are websites and twitter feeds dedicated to forecasting the aurora borealis, and you can drive yourself nuts trying to time it as you really only ever get a short window to see it at its best – our recommendation is to try to put the odds in your favor with time of year vs your schedule and just book the trip.  Lyngen Lodge is magical when the lights are out and dancing as we experienced, and we are certain that it is still an amazing destination when the weather (and solar particles) is less cooperative with all of the adventures on offer.

super cozy:  post northern lights viewing at Lyngen Lodge