The Patagonia International Marathon & EcoCamp in Torres del Paine National Park

I see skies of blue and clouds of white, the bright blessed day, the sacred night

And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.

The colors of the rainbow so pretty in the sky, are also on the faces of people going by.

I see friends shaking hands, saying how do you do.

They’re really saying… I love you.

And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.

Around mile 13 a fellow marathoner caught up to the pack of runners I was in, smirking knowingly as he turned up his handheld speaker which so fittingly emitted Louis Armstrong’s ‘It’s a Wonderful World’.  I looked over, laughed, and even slightly shook my head, knowing that as cliché of a moment as it was, it was one that would surely stick with me for years to come. 

This wonderful world indeed seemed to whiz by me in a blur as I finished the back half of the Patagonia International Marathon, the tune seemingly serving as a temporary remedy to help me overcome the endless stretches of painfully beautiful hills, a glaring reminder of the long training runs I hadn’t done back home in London.  I crossed the finish line, taking mental snapshots of as many views of Los Cuernos as possible while trying to regain my breath.  I shook hands with fellow finishers.  I searched for the nearest apple or sandwich. 

I looked around and absorbed every single thing I could about this moment: the sunshine beaming down on my face, the surprisingly wind-free conditions, the way the late morning light hit the snow, the people congratulating each other, in awe of what they had just accomplished.  This was my place and these were my people. 

All I could think was: I am exactly where I am supposed to be.  I’m not sure I had ever felt that emotion so entirely before.

What I and the other thousands of runners had completed together that September morning would be a memory not soon (if ever) forgotten.  Many marathons are run each year- and people run them for different reasons: personal goals, with or for family members, fundraising for a cause, etc.  But this experience felt somehow different.  With crossing that finish line, we would be bonded for life, not just by the race we had just completed, but by the experience of running in truly the most beautiful place on earth.  That, and the effort it took to get there in the first place.

Running in Patagonia is a different type of experience than running anywhere else.

It’s not just about a dedication to training, or the steady pulse of your feet hitting the pavement relentlessly for 26.2 miles on race day; It’s about getting back to the basics, and stretching our physical and mental limits as humans.

It’s about being reminded with every step that we are all a part of and wholly responsible for this uniquely pristine land.

It’s about respecting what we all stand for: beauty, purity, great wide open spaces – and the protection of them.

It’s about coming together as one, rather than being wedged apart, despite being individual racers, each with his or her own story, opinions and background.

The runners dedicated themselves to traveling many hours and thousands of miles, and in many cases, even days to being in Patagonia arrived to the race that day with one overarching personal truth: this is the place, and these are the moments that make us feel alive.

They give us faith.  They give us hope. 

My Patagonia marathon experience and desire to help do my part in this world and minimize my own footprint was only amplified by my stay at Ecocamp Patagonia with Cascada Travel. 

As Torres del Paine’s first fully sustainable accommodation, Ecocamp is a place that you can relax in what feels like the most luxurious place on earth, but also feel good about doing so.

Ecocamp lives and breathes the same truths and mores as the runners who are attracted to the Patagonia marathon, and it’s not hard to see why it is so special to so many of us who stayed there before and after race day. 

The Ecocamp team fully embodies the spirit of giving back, teamwork, and supporting one’s own community: 90% of the guides are employed from local regions, all food is bought from nearby suppliers, the majority of the decoration inside the domes comes from Argentinian and Chilean artisans.  And this isn’t limited to just the staffing and importing of products, but extends as well to the thoughtful construction of the domes themselves.  The semi-spherical Ecocamp domes have skylight windows, are heated by the old-fashioned way (fire) and are constructed in such a way to minimize their impact on the Earth.  

The property stays at the forefront of the newest green capabilities and actively seeks ways to improve and to do better (currently, electricity is limited and propane gas is used for heating, but the founders are in active talks to implement solar energy for heating in the near future).   

The same way that we, as runners, are used to pushing our limits to the best of our ability, Ecocamp prides itself on pushing comfort ‘to the limits of what is sustainable’.  Through their ethos, they demonstrate that within us all exists a capacity and ability to take care of and respect the land we live on.  What matters most is our continued conscious effort and dedication to doing so.  Ecocamp is trying harder than anyone I know, and creating a truly unique experience in doing so. 

Track and field coach and cofounder of Nike’s Bill Bowerman once said, “The real purpose of running isn’t to win a race. It’s to test the limits of the human heart.”

I couldn’t agree more, and a stay at soulful Ecocamp combined with the experience of the Patagonia Marathon gave me the ultimate heartfelt experience.  

Life feels simpler out there, but it feels just right.

Paresa Resort - Finding Cliffside Luxury in Thailand

“Do you hear that!?” Was exclaimed wide eyed as our aged and previously abused rental car exerted itself up the winding roads that bring you to Paresa Resort Phuket.

Most resorts will happily provide a variety of transfer options to and from the local airport, however we thought the more interesting approach would be to rent/hire a car allowing for much more freedom and options to explore.  Also, driving in southern Thailand is a great experience… it’s a two lane road?  Why not make it three by using the shoulder area?  The white lane lines are apparently just a suggestion, and you have to be vigilant and prepared for the myriad scooters, sidecars laden with watermelon or other in-season fruit on its way to a local market, and of course the very occasional elephant which we saw around one of the winding corners as we drove from the busy Patong to the tranquil Kamala.

Paresa Kamala Resort is creatively positioned on the cliffs affording fantastic, only-interrupted by trees views of the Andaman sea from every room (13) and suite (36) at the property.  It’s unique layout also allows for a very memorable and distinct hotel visit - epecailly when looking at other resorts in the area. You arrive at the very top of the property and descend to the reception area where we were warmly welcomed, provided with much needed cool and scented towels, a fragrant chilled tea, and asked to pick a scent for the room (lemongrass or coconut) as you run through the check in process.   

Paresa apparently means ‘heaven of all heavens’ and here because of the cliffside layout over many private acres you descend and ascend throughout the resort either on foot or with one of the many on-call buggies.  It is a unique set-up that creates a sense of isolation and privacy… and your legs will remind you of your efforts (it is a great way to work off a bit of the fantastic breakfasts and or dinners you will experience while on site – again with unrivalled views).

And that noise that we heard when we were first driving to the resort? Thousands, if not millions of cicadas and other chirping critters in the surrounding jungle/forest… a cacophony that rises and falls throughout the evenings there and serves as an unforgettable backdrop to the scenery – and thankfully those critters were heard but not seen as we gazed out at the squid boats lit up in green and white in the distance and the heat lightning that illuminated the night skies.

Ambient noise from the cliffs at Paresa Resort in Thailand

At risk of repetitiveness, the resort’s infinity pool (if you get sick of your own room’s pool) is located just below the restaurant and just a cliff level above the spa  – all again with amazing views of the sea that will have you reaching for your phone or camera over and over again trying to capture that elusive perfect angle that captures the feel of Paresa (it is difficult to do).

The spa itself offers many of the traditional treatments one expects to find, but with organic oils and materials and all created locally.  I opted for the special ‘after sun’ massage (peppermint, eucalyptus and tea tree) after foolishly spending some non spf time outside of our suite – it did not banish the burn but definitely made it a bit more manageable! (thank you)

Paresa also offers a host of activities (and yes - a fantastic beach as well)  – both their own and then some offered by a boutique third party provider where unique opportunities have been selected that keep you away from the tourist hoards and engaged with the local culture.  We chose to hop in our car in order to explore the Phuket Old Town on our own schedule.  The Old Town was a very pleasant surprise.  It has been both preserved and modestly gentrified – a great blend of the old Sino tin mining heritage and a nod to reforming and cleaning up its more ‘dusty’ areas which are now full of color and good smells (for the most part!).

We’d highly recommend visiting this area of the world.  Phuket has a little bit of everything – depending on what you are in to and looking for.  We came looking for interesting adventures, new cultural knowledge and an understanding of the area and some tranquillity / downtime and found it all at or within striking distance of Paresa Kamala.

Northern Lights in Northern Norway

“The lights are out!, The lights are out!” was the call to action during our stay at Lyngen Lodge. The house lights (the electric version) were all immediately dimmed (except a single lamp used by the kitchen prep team) and both guests and staff stopped what they were doing to see what was above us in the skies – leading to a scramble… some just out of the hot tub, others relaxing in front of the fire in slippers with a glass of wine, others reading in the cosy loft, and yet others just back from one of the great outdoor activities offered.  It does not matter – you bundle up as best as you can and jump to action to see the northern lights. Goretex rustles, tripods clatter together in the rush to get outside and quiet suggestions of camera settings are shared – with everyone hoping to try to somehow capture the display above.

We are firm believers that buzzwords should be avoided almost at all costs – especially when describing travel, which can be awash in them. 

Case in point – mention the Northern Lights or do a quick search and you’ll see ‘bucket list’,  ‘must do things to do in (insert location here)’ and numerous click-bait articles on the‘top things to do before you die’. 

Every year you see airlines selling packages based on them, aggregators touting all-inclusive tours, and various other superlatives about the aurora…  and the superlatives are true.

Ignore all of the noise – do a bit of research, and go see them.  You’ve seen the pictures on Instagram and from the good people at places like Visit Norway, but nothing does it justice until you have seen them yourself.  They move.  They twist. They change shape and expand across the sky right in front of your eyes and no matter how well filmed, captured and edited the end product is – it does not compare to the first person experience.

Now – the big question is where and when?  We’ve tried Iceland and seen them with middling results (no offense intended Iceland!) and set our sights on Norway.  It is more north, often with clearer skies.

There are myriad options in Norway. We were very intrigued by Lyngen Lodge because of its location (remote and north, in Djupvik near Olderdalen) and its description: ‘luxury boutique lodge’.

Transfers are offered but we decided it would be fun to hire a car in Tromso and drive – there are two options, one with two ferry rides across fjords and the other is the longer but more scenic route, which we chose. The drive was spectacular, if a bit harrowing, in a car without the proper snow tires and equipment, but also allowed us to become acquainted with the truly unique landscapes of northern Norway, where mountains seem ot jump from the sea/fjords around each bend.  It was totally worth it though as we got our first glimpse of the norther lights – initially saying ‘um I think I see something over there’ while trying to keep an eye on the icy roads and then a yell of “pull over!”

We saw a spectacular display on the side of the E6 road – we stood there in awe, shivering in the silence watching the green and pink display twist and change shapes above us.  Cameras (and coats) were buried in bags in the car and it was probably best that way for the first sighting – just experiencing it in awe instead of worrying about a tech set up.

As a result of our air (and aurora prompted) delays we arrived at Lyngen after the original anticipated time but were welcomed warmly by the staff and owners who sat us down immediately for a tasty bowl of soup and a quick orientation.  The lodge is well proportioned - traditionally built (massive wood logs and wool, no modern joinery or other insulation needed) and can accommodate 16 guests at a time in small-ish but well-designed rooms which actually encourages use of the super cosy main room with its large stone fireplace, sofas, and floor to ceiling windows providing fantastic views of the Lyngen Alps just outside. There is also a library and television room, but most guests seem to congregate in the warm living area / communal dining room spaces. 

The food at Lyngen Lodge was a particular surprise… an executive chef using locally sourced ingredients (expect fresh cod, crab, halibut, reindeer, lamb, etc) and presenting each evening’s 3 course meal along with a different red and white wine pairing each night – it was both quaint and high-end at the same time and always warming after a day’s activities and the small house and guide staff excels at making guests feel welcome - it feels more like a ‘lodge away from home’ because of the familiar faces you see throughout each day.

There are websites and twitter feeds dedicated to forecasting the aurora borealis, and you can drive yourself nuts trying to time it as you really only ever get a short window to see it at its best – our recommendation is to try to put the odds in your favor with time of year vs your schedule and just book the trip.  Lyngen Lodge is magical when the lights are out and dancing as we experienced, and we are certain that it is still an amazing destination when the weather (and solar particles) is less cooperative with all of the adventures on offer.

super cozy:  post northern lights viewing at Lyngen Lodge

Amsterdam: Moving Beyond Coffee Shops and The Red Lights

Every time I tell someone that I am going to Amsterdam for the weekend I seem to receive a specific knowing look;  that look that says they suspect I'm off to meet up with all of my most troublesome friends to pursue activities that are maybe nefarious in some areas of the world and not so much in others.

People think coffee shops, tourists, and maybe even a stop off at the Red Light District… and while those things may or may not be high on your agenda or things that everyone ‘must do’ as part of a trip, Amsterdam has so much more to offer if you just peek behind the curtain.

Amsterdam has been called the Venice of the North for obvious reasons – it’s charm and beauty rivals many of the so-called ‘great cities’ of Europe.  Furthermore, it can be accessed and enjoyed with significantly less hassle than its brothers and sisters.  (Have you ever tried to get across London at rush hour while trying to make a dinner reservation?  Ever risked life and limb on a Vélib’ in Paris to visit a museum? If you have tried either, then you know.  If not… don’t.)

Getting around is easy

Amsterdam is blessed by its size and location and benefits from a well thought out and well connected transport system.  Schiphol is one of the most well connected and most pleasant airports in the world.  Get there and either jump in a taxi or Uber or take one of the regular trains to Amsterdam Centraal Station – then start exploring. 

Once in the city, you can get from one end to another by foot or by one of the cycle hire options (of which there are many), so need not worry if you wander off a bit and then have to get back to the other side of town.  It turns out that nothing is all that far away.

See the main attractions, then explore beyond

Museums:  Van Gogh, Rijksmuseum. Anne Frank.  Do them.  Be prepared to stand in a line / queue and use resources like Google to see when what times are the least busy. If your focus is on museums (and there are many of them) – also consider the Musuemkaart.

The Canals: Free, and the best way to get to know the city. Pick a canal and walk along it until you see something interesting. Stop, look, experience… and then find another.  In the water you will observe hundreds of unique houseboats and entertaining canal traffic (you may even garner a wave from a local cruising by!), and peppered along the edge of the canal you'll observe unparalleled architecture, interesting boutiques, and a myriad of fun and affordable restaurants.  Our only warning: watch out for bikes when crossing the street, as you'll soon be run over by one if you aren't careful (there are more bikes per capita than any other country!)

The culinary scene has really developed over the past five years and AMS is now a food destination, however do not let this keep you from grabbing a paper cone of frites & fritessaus or a Febo snack. 

Stay like a local: pick the best then trust your host

There are tons of hotels in AMS… for every budget, and every intent (from the aforementioned nefarious to the top end luxe experiences).  Our preference?  Always pick the most authentic or ‘true’ experience, with a focus on the people.

On a recent adventure we were fortunate to come across The Weavery. From their website:  “Gezelligheid is an untranslatable Dutch word you will hear a lot in the Netherlands. Roughly translated it means cozy and pleasant.”

I do not know if we could sum it up any better actually. 

Bettina was a wonderful hostess and it was fantastic to meet her, her partner Driss, and their two little charming girls over the course of our stay. These hosts embody everything you could ever hope a B&B host would, and know how to create a level of comfort that makes you want to stay and explore..

The set up at the Weavery is for a boutique B&B experience, but without the full B&B obligation (ie you can be as ‘engaged’ as you would like to be).  Breakfast is served in their very well appointed and fun two rooms (and not in a communal setting with Bill from Virginia) and after a quick instruction on logistics you are free to come and go as you like.

Their location is also excellent - the highlights:

·         easy access from Centraal by the 16 tram and tucked in a fun canal ringed neighborhood

·         5 minute walk to the Museumplein

·         5 minute walk to the Heineken experience

·         a short walk to the fun shops and restaruants of De Pijp

·         a short walk to central AMS

·         near Prinsengracht and Keizersgraght – two of the canals to wander along

Bettina left us a snack, a map with some of her well-vetted favorites (local restaurants, shopping, and museums) and suggested we meet the next morning to catch up. We set off and followed her recommendations – grabbing a fun meal at Buffet van Odette  (which was so good that we went back again later in the weekend), checking out the AMS Light festival and popping into unexpected pizza shops and pubs along the way.

The Weavery itself is an original Amsterdam house – built in the 17th century to provide attractive housing to those in the textile industry. Bettina and Driss have restored it faithfully but also have further created a warm and inviting space with fully preserved traditional details coupled with a few elegant and modern touches. We felt like we were at home.

Our favorite modern touch had its roots in very traditional methods (of the Berbers).  The carpets throughout the Weavery are sourced from middle Atlas Morocco and support local village communities there – and help to preserve an art and traditional methods. This region of the world has special personal meaning to both Bettina and Driss, which makes the weaving of their own personal meaning/passion with the local AMS experience all the more meaningful. True to form, the rugs that are sold in their online store are available in not just patterns of their own choosing, but are also available to customize so you can purchase but weave in your own personal touch.

Our final pick: base your authentic Amsterdam experience at the Weavery – ask for their suggestions -  and tell Bettina and Driss that we sent you!